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Having a Fun Time Changing Oil

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by Kathleen2, May 13, 2006.

  1. ScottY

    ScottY New Member

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    This pdf (http://john1701a.com/prius/documents/Prius...hanging-Oil.pdf) from John1701a pretty much answer most of your questions.


    4. Do you recommend a magnetic drain plug?

    I didn't use it. Some ppl think it's better to have it. I don't know.

    5. What is a fumoto valve? Does it help in changing the oil the next time?

    Fumoto replaces the drain plug so when you change oil next time, you just twise the handle and oil will drain. No tools needed and less messy. I had an old thread on this topic, http://priuschat.com/index.php?showtopic=16918&hl=
     
  2. onerpm

    onerpm New Member

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    <div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(puppetmasta @ Jul 6 2006, 01:49 PM) [snapback]282138[/snapback]</div>
     
  3. HTMLSpinnr

    HTMLSpinnr Super Moderator
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    I've been changing oil on cars since my early teens, and have yet to have a problem w/ the Prius until tonight. During my last change, I managed to over-tighten my oil filter (though I did lube the gasket prior). I also skimped and went with the WalMart brand Super Tech since the "stats" seemed better than the other icky Fram choice.

    My dilemma started when I discovered that the filter is just a fraction of an inch smaller than other filters I've used. Translation, my cap wrench just spun around, and couldn't get a good bite. Tried padding with a rubber glove, no dice. Band wrenches I have are too big. Tried the screwdriver through the filter "trick", and while the filter drained, I only managed to tear apart the filter and bend my screwdriver. Didn't think about wrapping with duct tape until *after* I mutilated the filter, probably because I don't have any in the house. :-(

    I've spent the past 4 hours+ trying to get the thing off with my somewhat limited tool collection. Mind you I've already drained the oil. :-( On the plus side, I'm replacing it with a Toyota filter and only tightening 3/4 turn past contact.

    I've now gotten all of the filter casing cut away, but have the base remaining on the filter mount. I've tried making a "tool" (4 gauge steel old bucket handle bent into a U shape) to span the holes, but it eventually bent out of shape when I attempted to use it with a socket extension as a breaker bar. .

    I also started to use a rotary tool to attempt to cut between the holes to remove that portion of the base, with the idea that my channel lock pliars could fit around the remaining piece. However, I quickly realized the fine metal shavings in that area are just a very bad idea, and I was probably using the wrong bit for the job anyway (took too long). I may come back to the idea though if all else fails, and just wipe things down with oil to "rinse" before replacing the filter.

    I've found online posts regarding using a chisel to "nudge" the base in a counter-clockwise direction. I have a couple of large punches in my inherited collection that I've tried, but given that it's 10:30pm, I didn't try too hard. I'm also afraid I'm going to miss and damage the AC line nearby. Tomorrow I'm going to run out and get a flat chisel to try, unless my local Checker or AutoZone has a special tool for this task in their loaner pool.

    I found a tool which would be perfect, but given that I need it now so I can get to work Monday, it doesn't seem reasonable to order. Maybe the local parts stores have something similar.

    http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/topa...lfiltertool.php

    Any thoughts, tips, or otherwise words of encouragement? I had to give up for the night since I didn't want to be a bad neighbor, and I'm lacking the "proper" tools. My poor car is still up on jackstands w/o oil until I get this fixed. I can say though I've learned a valuable lesson or two:

    1. Don't skimp on filters
    2. Don't overtighten the ones you do use
    3. Remove the filter first (thanks parent post)
     
  4. Frank Hudon

    Frank Hudon Senior Member

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    Rick I have on occasion used my air chisel with punch instead of a chisel. It's noisy and fast, the secret here is you DON'T want to damage the filter mount as it's part of the block on a 1NZ-FXE and that would cause real trouble.
     
  5. darelldd

    darelldd Prius is our Gas Guzzler

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    Say... Is now a good time time to mention that electric cars have no crankcase oil... and therefor require no oil changes? No plugs either. Or intake air filters. Transmission oil.

    But back to the topic... oil changes suck. Even when they're easy.

    - Darell (checking in from Northern Kauai) :)
     
  6. Rogust

    Rogust New Member

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    Any thoughts, tips, or otherwise words of encouragement? I had to give up for the night since I didn't want to be a bad neighbor, and I'm lacking the "proper" tools. My poor car is still up on jackstands w/o oil until I get this fixed. I can say though I've learned a valuable lesson or two:

    Rick,
    I just went to my local car parts store (Auto Zone) and bought the following for $5.99:
    "OEM Industrial" item # 25128 "Import Car Filter Wrench, 2 1/2" to 3 1/8", 3/8"drive. "Fast Fit".
    It is an adjustable heavy metal oil filter "grabber". It opens to fit the filter, then you put your socket wrench into the bottom and put pressure in the loosening direction. The more pressure you use, the tighter it grabs it.
    It worked perfectly on mine this morning. It might not work for yours now that you have destroyed it (sob, sob). But you might just be able to get a grab on the topmost part of it. Worth a try maybe.
    Roger
     
  7. HTMLSpinnr

    HTMLSpinnr Super Moderator
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    Not having an air chisel (or any air tools for that matter), I opted to go the rotary tool route with a cutting wheel. I put the flexible extension on, and two cutting wheels later, I was able to cut between enough of the holes that I could pry the outer portion of the base away. That seemed to do the trick, as I was able to use a pair of Channel-Lock pliers to twist it off. Unfortunately, the A/C line was in the way so I couldn't cut the last bit completely (see pic below).

    Once it was removed, I sprayed a small amount of WD-40 (all I had, and wanted something lighter than 5w30) around the base as a cleaner to remove the dust, and wiped it out w/ a towel. I also pushed the towel into the outlet hole a bit with a small screwdriver to remove any dust/fileings that may have entered that way.

    I did slightly scratch the filter base where I attempted to pry the base apart from the mount last night (prior to cutting), but not enough to be concerned about - it's more or less outside the gasket contact area. I quickly decided against prying any further as I didn't want to damage the aluminum block once I noted the filter mount wasn't removable from the block, and that it wasn't as sturdy as it's cast iron equivelant.

    I did nick the edge of the thread a bit though when prying inward against the filter base from inside the filter holes - screwdriver must have contacted the threads just a bit in a couple of spots. It was enough where I had to use the cap wrench with light force to get the filter through it's 1st-2nd turn. I also backed off once to ensure I wasn't cross-threading (not the case). I also noticed that a 10mm hex head (which I will have before I start the tranny fluid exchange next week) could have removed that (along w/ the base) in a pinch, but I also figured that there may be a gasket underneath that I wouldn't have a replacement for. If the threads remain problematic, I'll replace the threaded portion of the filter mount during a future oil change if the cost justifies the results.

    Live and learn... attached is a pic of what was left of the base after I finally got it off.
    [attachmentid=4165]

    As for tools, I replaced it with a Toyota filter, which works just fine w/ the cap wrench. I may look into that other tool though in case I go w/ another filter in the future. One would think the size would be uniform :-(

    On the plus side, tearing apart the other filter revealed it's inner workings. The media didn't appear "clogged", but then again, I probably can't see the stuff it's really (hopefully) capturing.

    Thanks all for sharing my pain. As for electric cars, I'm sure the transmission still has some sort of lubrication that probably needs exchange at some point in it's life.

    Worst part of it all was being hot enough (even at night) where sweat was pooling up inside my latex gloves to the point where I finally gave up on them (twice). Best part is I wasn't at all discouraged once I figured out how to get the thing off. In the end as I went on to adjust my rear brakes and parking brake (requires center console removal) - 10+ clicks just wasn't doing it for me.
     
  8. Kathleen2

    Kathleen2 New Member

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    :) Just an update. I changed my oil again; only this time no mess! The FUMOTO Valve worked great. I didn't kick over any oil containers or drop the oil filter in the waste oil. Everything went smoothly and without difficulty. Which is a minor miracle for this 60 year old.
    Kathleen
     
  9. <div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(puppetmasta @ Jul 6 2006, 02:49 PM) [snapback]282138[/snapback]</div>
    1. I take it to a gas station i know that takes used waste oil.

    2. You don't NEED to prop it up but if i had those little ramps you drive a car up, i'd use em'.

    3. you need a wrench, i don't remember the size i use an adjustable. and if the filter wont come off, you can stab a hole in it with a screw driver and then use it to turn it, but its messy. SO when you intsall the new filter, DON"T TORQUE IT DOWN LIKE AN APE!!! just add some oil to the ruber seal and torque it so its tight, heat will make it expand and ensure a good seal.

    4. Magnetic plugs are great ways to collect metal, i don't know why i haven't gotten one yet and i have put 3k on it so far. im not getting a plug, im getting an O that goes around the filter... i recommend it.

    5. im not sure what a fumoto valve is. but i do know there are "quick" valves that replace the nut so you can turn it a few times and then the oil passes throught it so you dont have to remove it, and then you just tighten it back down. Don't use them, the break from what i hear, and they are kinda silly. if you get that, you can't get your magnetic plug... but i don't know what a fumoto valve is, im just guessing.


    ...the prius is relatively easy to work on. the oil filter isn't really deep hidden behind the wheels are in a hard place to get too, you can see it unlike some cars i have seen... i say do it yourself so you know its done right...

    ...i wish i knew how to reset the maintance required light, when i find out, i won't take it to the dealership.

    Edit: its not safe to work under a car thats on the jack, and with the prius's low clearance to the ground, its not wise to do it especially with this car.
     
  10. jmccord

    jmccord New Member

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    <div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(TheParadox @ Jul 27 2006, 03:17 PM) [snapback]293372[/snapback]</div>
    The USER-GUIDE has answers to common owner questions... like this one. (Thanks John :D )
    http://john1701a.com/prius/prius-userguide.htm

    The Priuschat search function is pretty handy too!
     
  11. robk

    robk New Member

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    I don't have a Prius but I have been putting a magnet on the oil filter to catch metal particles. I move it to the new filter when I change the oil. I have some neodymium magnets which stay put really good.
     
  12. richard schumacher

    richard schumacher shortbus driver

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    <div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(robk @ Aug 1 2006, 02:08 AM) [snapback]295582[/snapback]</div>
    Have you confirmed that the magnet is strong enough to get through the wall of the filter? If it is not, all you have is an oil filter ornament.
     
  13. ekpolk

    ekpolk What could possibly...

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    This car is an ideal candidate for an oil extractor, with the dipstick tube right there up front and accessible. Having bought the car Saturday, I did my first Prius extractor oil change on Sunday. I ran the suction tube down the dipstick guide, and cleanly pumped out almost exactly four quarts. Filter next, easily accessible as you all know. Result: a drip-free, no jack stand oil change in less than ten minutes. As to the used oil, AutoZone stores will let you dump up to five gallons at a time free in their tank. FWIW, I store my used oil in empty windshield washer fluid bottles in my shed. I do recommend the use of an electric air pump model of extractor -- mine's a hand pump version, and that gets old quick, but it's still very effective. :)
     
  14. prez1

    prez1 New Member

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    <div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(galaxee @ May 13 2006, 01:17 PM) [snapback]254787[/snapback]</div>

    I, too, just take it to the dealer and let them change the oil. I changed it on all my old cars, but I have given it up. I used to roto-rooter my drain at home, too, but I have gone to the dark side of convenience. Ha.
     
  15. ekpolk

    ekpolk What could possibly...

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    <div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(richard schumacher @ Aug 1 2006, 10:57 AM) [snapback]295690[/snapback]</div>
    No harm can come of using such a device, but I personally don't bother. I routinely (but not every oil change) send oil off to the lab for analysis, and I usually order the optional particle count feature. The typical gas automobile engine's closest clearances are in the single-digit micron range, and I've yet to see a UOA+PC with enough particles at or above that size that I'd be very concerned. I'll be doing my first Prius UOA in a month or two, and we'll see how the PCs come out for the 1NZ engine. Unless I see a lot of big particles not being filtered, and my consultant (Dyson) believes they're ferrous, I wouldn't be motivated to try a filter magnet.
     
  16. lilrdwgn

    lilrdwgn New Member

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    I had a helluva time getting the first oil filter off of my '06 Prius. I did get the strap filter to work but banged a couple of knuckles doing it. My success was backing the driver's front wheel on a half cinder block and it raised the front end of the car enough so that I could crawl under the front end and get the strap wrench on the filter.
    Second, the next day someone told me you can use a belt and wrap it around any oil filter twice then pull it thru the buckle and it should loosen the filter. Another idea.
    My bet is after the first change it won't be as tight so should not be a problem going forward.
    :)
     
  17. DanMan32

    DanMan32 Senior Member

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    Due to potential mess, and I am certainly prone to that with even simple automechanics, I have someone else do the oil change.

    I might do the tranny fluid change myself if I can't find someone else to do it for about the same price as an oil change, since the labor is essentially similar.