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Cooling fans stopped working

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by fbuxo, Nov 3, 2010.

  1. fbuxo

    fbuxo New Member

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    Hi guys:
    I own a 2006 Prius with 52k miles on it. Great car BTW. The problem is simple, the radiator cooling fans stopped working on high mode; they run around 25% only even, not removing the heat from the a/c evaporator and the radiator coolant. I checked fuses: OK, checked relays: OK. They spin freely and nothing is blocking the front face of the evaporator. Funny I noticed it when I started hearing the a/c compressor buzzing noise and then I realized the fan noise wasn't there! Uff, its gonna get hot! I had a 88 corolla and the fan motor was the 3 wire type, but this puppy is a two wire type for each motor, thus the power to the motor is regulated and controlled by some kid I have no idea where he is seated.

    The thing is that this kind of problem is not detected by the car's computer. Is there any sensor or resistance mounted somewhere that deals with the activation of the fan high speed mode? Thanks!

    Fernando
     
  2. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    1. There is a water temp switch on the engine intake manifold and a pressure switch in the AC system. When those activate, they provide voltage to the fan relays.

    2. Check Cooling Fan Relay #2, which puts the fans in series (thus lowering their rotational speed). That relay is single pole double throw.

    First measure resistance across the terminals to figure out which two are for the coil. The other three are switched. Then figure out which two of the three switched terminals are connected when the relay coil is not powered up and measure the resistance. Should be 0.5 ohm or less.

    Then you'll need to provide 12VDC to the relay coil, and check resistance across the three switched terminals again. You should find that continuity is reached when you measure resistance from the other one of the three terminals, to one of the pair that previously showed continuity. Again, the resistance measurement should be 0.5 ohm or less. If you don't find this, then the relay is bad.
     
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  3. fbuxo

    fbuxo New Member

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    Thanks. I'll do my womework and report the results. Have a good one!
     
  4. fbuxo

    fbuxo New Member

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    I checked both relays and were good. The high presssure switch next to the a/c hi port was good. Couldn't find / identify the coolant temp switch, more location hints please!
    This is what happened today. I started checking the problem around noon, ambient temp was around 85, the car was parked in the shadow and the engine was cold. I started the car and switched on the a/c on auto at 75, that's usually the temp I set it. Usually, the cooling fans start running on high not more than a couple of seconds after the compressor starts running, they stayed on low running mode. I removed the relays and started checking them starting by the small one, all this while the car was running. Because the removal of this relay turned off the fans, temp started to rise on the condenser, the gas engine was off. Just when I was about to put it back in the socket, a clicking sound (perhaps from the a/c high pressure switch) come sounded along with the right fan running on high. I replaced the relay I had in my hand and then the left one started too, but just for a short period (5 sec) and then "clicked" back to low speed. Well, I thought, the high pressure switch its working, temperature lowered to a safe level and the switch did his job.
    Before this whole situation appeared, from inside the cabin, behind the glove box, I could hear, but not a loud noise, what appeared to be a flap or louver sound trying to move or get set usually when the cabin temp was approaching my set temp; usually pressing the recirc button a couple of times (also if outside temp increased, quieted the living dwarf behind the glove box because it stayed "squishing" and was kind of annoying. Right now, there's no effect in pressing the recirc button, when in high fan you could hear the difference between recirc and fresh, not now. Has the servo or the flap gone postal? The thing is all this started simultaneously.

    I'm going to check under the dash, behind the glovebox to see what it's going on. Please don't forget to provide me with more a specific location of the engine coolant temp switch. It might not be the cause of the problem, but to be sure and discard it as the cause and check it. Thanks again and sorry for the looong process description. Fernando
     
  5. kohnen

    kohnen Grumpy, Cranky Senior Member

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    Perhaps the motors?

    Most radiator fan motors have brushes. Sadly, they're typically sealed so that you can't just replace the brushes.

    When brushes wear out, they make intermittent contact with the commutator of the motor - this causes the motor to run at slow speed (because the brushes lightly touch the commutator as it rotates).

    I've had this problem on other cars (but not the Prius).

    One more thing - has the car ever had major work done on the front end? If so, you need to make sure that the correct motor is attached to the correct fan and in the correct position. The two motors spin in opposite directions, and the two fan blade units are mirror images of each other.

    You have it right when the blades towards the center of the two fans go downwards while they're spinning.
     
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  6. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    The radiator water temperature switch is located on the radiator, passenger's side.

    The smaller relay, named Fan #3, controls power to the AC condenser fan motor.

    The larger relay, named Fan #2, controls high or low speed, by putting the two fans in series (so that each fan gets ~7VDC) or else connects each fan to its own 12V (actually 14V when the Prius is READY) supply. Hence, since your problem is that both fans work, just slowly, then I suggest you focus on why that relay is not activating.

    If you are sure that Fan #2 relay works, then you might try running a temporary wire to ground pin #2 of the relay while the relay is in the socket, to see whether the relay will switch, allowing the fans to speed up.

    If that works then you need to figure out why pin #2 is not getting grounded when it is supposed to. Might be a wiring harness problem.

    The final relay, named Fan #1, is hidden within an integrated relay module named "Unit C" that contains four relays. That relay controls power to the radiator fan motor.

    You may want to download the wiring diagram at techinfo.toyota.com so that you can see how the three relays control 12V power to the two fans. Good luck.
     
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  7. fbuxo

    fbuxo New Member

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    Ouch! Punctured condenser. Thanks for the expert advice. Seems the a/c charge loss as the primary problem source.
     
  8. fbuxo

    fbuxo New Member

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    Had the a/c condenser replaced and all problems gone, the cabin filter was replaced too. I have to admit, the troubleshooting drill was needed in order to have a better understanding of some functions of my Prius. The leak was very small and slow; but when the pressure dropped below a specified range, the a/c system went postal (and me too! -lol-). Thanks to you guys out there for your expert advice.
     
  9. Unaib

    Unaib New Member

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