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P0A80 with good block voltages?

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Technical Discussion' started by koukilights, Jun 17, 2018.

  1. koukilights

    koukilights Junior Member

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    I have a 2005 Prius with 188k on the clock. I've been dealing with this issue for about 11k miles now since I bought the vehicle

    Is there a way to scan the system for a more specific trouble code?

    I'm getting the generic P0A80 code for hybrid battery issues but it doesn't seem to affect how the car performs at all. I can drive for days and the christmas tree won't pop up, but sometimes I'll drive 30 miles and it'll pop up twice in the same trip.

    All my block voltages look good and I've had the battery pack out before and measured all the module voltages and they were all very close to each other.

    The bus bars were pretty corroded and I cleaned them off the best I could but I'm thinking that wasn't enough. Should I get a set of refurbished bars and nuts online and put them in? Could that cause my intermittent red ! problem?

    [​IMG]
     
  2. Raytheeagle

    Raytheeagle Senior Member

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    The best way to understand what ou are dealing with is to get a Prius aware scanner (Techstream for example) and get the codes read ;).

    Until you get all the codes, you won’t know what you are working with and then you’ll be fishing at solutions. There are many reasons for the triangle to pop up and to get the P0A80 code.

    Since you’ve been in the battery before:

    • What torque did you use to put the bus bars back together?
    • Any leakage of modules?
    • The hv fan was cleaned?

    Best to get the codes read and let us know what they are for the next steps(y).
     
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  3. Hybrid Battery Exchange

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    The screenshot you attached show battery blocks under an aggressive charge, put the car in neutral and turn on the A/C to put a drain on the battery and then look at block voltages. Might want to add a gauge for current draw from the battery instead of that HV charge gauge.

    You can also look at the freeze frame data, it will show you which block triggered the code, my guess #8.
     
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  4. koukilights

    koukilights Junior Member

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    I just hopped in the Prius and ran it in neutral with the AC on full blast and the ambient temperature is 77 degrees F and here's what the data was showing

    [​IMG]
     
  5. koukilights

    koukilights Junior Member

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    I'll look into that Prius aware scanner, hopefully I can get more info

    I'm guessing I torqued them to 8 foot pounds or so. I don't have a torque wrench that reads that low, I tried using my torque wrench on a bad module that I had and it broke the stud off on it's lowest setting which claimed to be around 10 pounds

    No modules are leaking, I took them all out and examined them and all of the modules in the pack right now are looking good

    I didn't clean the HV fan, I actually haven't looked at it at all. I'll have to check that next time I open up the pack
     
  6. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    you don't have to open the pack to clean the fan, and check the intake grille as well.
     
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  7. Raytheeagle

    Raytheeagle Senior Member

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    The torque spec is 48 Inch pounds ;).

    So you’ve gotten them 2x tightened :(.

    Have you been able to get any data when the code sets as it could be intermittent?

    Keep us posted (y).
     
  8. edthefox5

    edthefox5 Senior Member

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    On your run ac in neutral test I see the battery is getting hot and the hv fan is not even running.
    There’s Something whacky going on your not seeing with torque. No delta on old battery with load.

    Quickest techstream device you can get is called VXDIAG sold on amazon. $99.. It’s called VXDIAG WITH TECHSTREAM. It works good it is the obd dongle that plugs into the obd port. Then you plug that obd Device into a laptop via usb and you have full techstream.

    How corroded was the battery interconnect? If it was really bad it may have rotted out the battery temp sensors under the modules or corroded the big battery ecu plug.

    Take lots of pictures next time you go into that battery.
     
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  9. koukilights

    koukilights Junior Member

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    Hmm, could that temperature issue be related to those clips that go on the bottom of the individual modules? When reinstalling the battery I forgot where they went and tried my best to place them where I thought they went. I read online that those were air temp sensors?

    I have a USB to OBD2 cable that I got on ebay for like 10 bucks, but I couldn't get the software to work at all and gave up. Can I use a different program with this cable? Or do I have to get that 100 dollar set up on amazon to all work together?

    The interconnect bus bars weren't too terrible. But they were corroded and some had a good bit of turquoise corrosion powder on them. Which one is the big battery ECU plug?
     
  10. Hybrid Battery Exchange

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    Looks like your problem is with block 1, lowest value recorded is 11.9, thats 5.95v per module. You have a few other weak ones in there as well, anything below 13v seems suspect. I don't think you have enough data though, you need to obtain a larger sample size and logging data instead of seeing current/lowest/highest. Download Hybrid Assistant/Reporter and generate a report of you driving for 10 minutes (after clearing the P0a80 code), should show you exactly which block is suspect and also show you any weak blocks.
     
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  11. TMR-JWAP

    TMR-JWAP Senior Member

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    This may be one of the luckiest HV batteries. It's not often a Block 1 module is first to fail. Easiest to get to of them all. If you assume (yikes) that the other module of the pair is equivalent to the average of the other ones that appear good then it should have been around 6.75v at the max load/min voltage point. That leaves the trouble module around 5.2v give or take. Plenty enough to trigger the triangle. HBE is right, as block 2, 4, 7 look like they each probably have a weak module or two. They'll probably be next in line for the whack...