P0AA6 DRIVING IN A FLOOD

Also, in regard to post 31. Corrosion on the exposed surfaces of the bus-bars is pretty normal. It's "looks" are much worse than it's "bite". Notice that the surface area which was sandwiched between the nut and the terminal flange are still very clean copper. This is the area of concern. Those surfaces were making contact just fine and the bus-bar will continue to conduct electricity just fine, as it's made of solid copper. There are rare times when corrosion/oxidation gets between the nut and bus-bar. The two times I've seen this, the entire surface between nut and flange was black. I have no explanation as to why or how, since the nut (s) have never been loose when I've found this.

At this point, since it is disassembled, it's probably wise to go ahead and clean the bars to ensure no corrosion gets under the nut when torqued. Be very carful removing and installing the bars into the plastic retainer, as those voltage sensing wires are relatively fragile. It doesn't take much to crack one just above the crimp. Then you're looking at another can of ouch.

If you have muriatic acid, it works great on the bus-bars (and all copper). Very fast. I've also heard boiling them in vinegar/salt solution works well.

 

Did you disconnect it at the cable connector at the front passenger side of the inverter? Or at the compressor?

I think you're heading in the right direction, it's just a matter of finding the right place.

Is that also with the HV battery removed?

You may be able to do this with a multi-meter.
Split all the components by disconnecting the HV cables and then take resistance readings from each component to chassis to see where the low reading is. With a solid short like a .03 or .17, it should show up pretty clearly.

 

aha!

 

i'll let tmr answer that, but it would seem so.

 

Try it after disconnecting the compressor cable at the inverter. That way you'll take the other half of the compressor plug out of the equation also.

A 0.19 v on the Short Wave is not something to be satisfied with. When I was visiting #1 Toyota Salesman, we connected Techstream so he could see it in use. He was showing a 4.9v reading.

The codes may be clear, and may even stay clear, at a 0.19v, but there's still something there. It may be worth further investigation, or at least frequent monitoring to see if it continues to improve. Maybe the water will eventually clear itself from engine heat.

 

Yes! You can see that the short wave is zero. That's another confirmation that there's bring an insulation fault somewhere.
The value is supposed to be 4.99V, when there isn't any problem.
My thinking is the insulation fault may have being coincidental, and not related to the flood, if you didn't see anything on the HV battery pack area.

PS: this was meant for the OP pls.

 

aha!

 

You still have a short circuit problems to ground somewhere. Its supposed to show you about 5.0V there (~4.99).

Connect the cable back, and try disconnecting that on the AC compressor.

 

You could have two problems... not just the a/c.

 

how do get these subcodes 614 or 612 or 613, in this case, using techstream? I got 526 but not 614. Is there any way to get that subcode?