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I hope I messed something simple up..

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by Mustache, Jul 23, 2018.

  1. Mustache

    Mustache New Member

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    About 2 months ago the dealership told us that the brake actuator was out. We'd been bringing the car in but they said without a code they couldn't do anything. Well, the code was thrown 2000 miles after the warranty and they basically told us to go float.

    I got a used one off ebay and finished the installation and bleed using tech stream and they're crisp and brake well. However, battery codes started flying all over.

    I'm really hoping that I forgot to plug something in or messed up reinstalling the inverter? Can anyone tell me a reason these codes would be throwing that doesn't mean I'm about to buy another hybrid battery?

    hv battery live
    p0a80 - replace hybrid battery pack

    engine and ect live
    p1121 throttle pedal position sensor coolant control valve stuck

    abs track live
    c1259 hv system regenerative malfunction
    c1310 - hv system malfunction

    hybrid control live
    p3000 battery control system

    tire pressure
    c2124 - cannont receive data freom the transmitter id4 (main)
    c2144 transmitter ID 4

    transmission control live
    c2300 actuator system malfunction
    c2318 - low voltage error (power supply malfunction)

    air conditioning
    b1421 solar sensor circuit (passenger side)
    b1442 air inlet damper control servermotor
     
  2. ericbecky

    ericbecky Hybrid Battery Hero

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    Any chance your 12v battery is low?

    Get a voltmeter and report back with the reading with car off.

    P1121 is for coolant valve. (Nothing to do wirh throttle position) this should not have been affected by brake actuator. It is a common failure for older Prius, though. You can read up about it on PriusChat.

    Also from tech stream can you take a pic of the screen that shows all the battery block voltages?
     
    #2 ericbecky, Jul 23, 2018
    Last edited: Jul 23, 2018
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  3. Mustache

    Mustache New Member

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    Yes, the 12v is very low. The battery died while it was sitting on the lot at the dealership and I put in a new battery just to get it home. My wife was trying to keep it charged by periodically cranking the car. However, the last time she did it (Thursday) she walked off and left it running. It ran out of gas and killed the battery. I had the battery on the charger while I was doing the brake actuator replacement bleed procedure which seemed to work OK, however it did randomly lose connection a few times - I think 12v charge may have been the culprit (although it could have been the old laptop I have).

    It's currently on a trickle charge and I'll check it when I get home tonight. I just left the house and it's up to 50% charge in the last 5 hours so it should be 100% this afternoon. I'll get you that picture of the battery block voltage then - any hints as to where to look for that in the tech stream software (it's a bit of a learning curve for someone completely unaccustomed to it).

    Could the 12v really be causing the hybrid battery to report a failure? Man I hope so...

    Thanks guys - after spending a full day covered in brake fluid taking the inverter apart, pulling the brake actuator, replacing all that spaghetti and then the hours under the car with my wife pushing the brake pedal the triumph of nice crip brakes was really dampened by the reports of the HV battery dying. Just hoping I'm not about to put another grand for a rebuilt battery into this thing.
     
  4. edthefox5

    edthefox5 Senior Member

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    Old 12 volt got hammered as you left the doors open and killed it and maybe the orange battery safety interlock is not installed correctly.

    You push it in....flip up the handle...then slide that handle down till it locks,

    But it’s way overdue for a new hybrid battery. If you can pull the inverter you can pull the hybrid battery out.
    Pull the hybrid battery out And see how corroded it is in there. Take a lot of pictures of it before disassembly.
     
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  5. Mustache

    Mustache New Member

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    Thanks Ed. I didn't get into the interlock (I don't think) so that should be as it was.

    What are you guys recommending for new batteries? I've seen that there are rebuilds online, new from factory, the NewPriusBatteries guy on here (but he's out of stock till October). Around me I have hometownhybrids (purposefully broken link, I'm new), they'll come out and install it for you for <$1,000. Does that seem like a good way to go (it's rebuilt, 2yr or 50k warranty)?
     
    #5 Mustache, Jul 23, 2018
    Last edited: Jul 23, 2018
  6. jerrymildred

    jerrymildred Senior Member

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    I agree with @ericbecky. 12V is the first place to look. Could be the safety interlock on the HV battery, but I don't think it would throw all those codes. Low 12V throws random codes.
     
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  7. Mustache

    Mustache New Member

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    Where would I look for codes that might indicate I forgot to plug something in or missed one of those connectors? I'm thinking that, near the firewall, there were 2 big orange, a small black, small white and medium grey. Besides the power for the water pump, was there anything else back there to hookup?
     
  8. ericbecky

    ericbecky Hybrid Battery Hero

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    Hometown Hybrids are reputable folks. Honest, knowledgeable.

    You can get USED or NEW batteries installed by them.
     
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  9. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    To whittle down the picture a little, several of the codes in your original list are 'reflector' codes posted by one ECU just to say it got notice of something from another ECU.

    The P3000 is just a code from the HV ECU telling you it got wind of something from the battery ECU and you should ask for those codes.

    The C1259 and C1310 are both codes that just get posted by the brake ECU when it gets word of a code from the HV ECU. So, given you have battery codes, of course you have all these also.

    You will always have B1421 about the solar sensor if the car is not in strong light when you pull codes. It's only a problem if you know the sun really was shining on the sensor at the time.

    There are a lot of adherents to the idea that low 12 v can result in "random" codes (the suggested mechanism is that the voltage gets so low that the logic circuits, likely 5 v rated, in the ECUs, simply can't function, whereupon they perfectly execute all of the steps of the OBD-II protocols to transmit codes to your scanner, and only the codes themselves are bogus. There are multiple problems with the suggested mechanism. :) ) To show that this actually happens would need evidence meeting a pretty high bar, and I've never seen any on PriusChat yet that does.

    On the other hand, it's perfectly plausible for low 12 v to get you some codes from ECUs telling you (correctly, not randomly) about the low voltage you've got, such as the C2318. (Even that code, a lot of the time, will mean there's a power circuit problem on the way to the park motor ECU, not literally that there's a battery problem ... but in a case where you already know there is a battery problem, you don't need to wonder too hard about this code. :) )

    Perhaps plausibly, a number of those codes could reflect low power availability (not enough oomph to move the coolant valve, or the air servo, or power the TPMS radio receiver).

    So in this case, even though I'm not in the "low 12 v causes random codes" camp, for you it would certainly be reasonable to charge or replace the battery given that you know it's very low, and then see which codes, if any, come back.

    -Chap
     
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  10. Mustache

    Mustache New Member

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    Ok, ran TechStream and have some info. After it idles (or if you try to drive it) I get all the codes listed in the 3rd (yellow) screenshot. Driving it, it's very slow. Barely accelerates - I'd doubt it would hit 30 mph. Something is certainly wrong...

    Link to my imgur album:

    I charged the 12v all day, you can see it's reading 14 volts in the Torque shots and 13.8 in the TechStream after like 15 minutes of idling off and on.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Thanks guys
     
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  11. ericbecky

    ericbecky Hybrid Battery Hero

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    Yeah... About those bad blocks.

    Block 9 at 14.6v while the rest are at 16v? Bad
    Block 7 at 13.1v when the rest are at 16v? Really, really bad.

    Something is shorted or has bad wiring.
     
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  12. fotomoto

    fotomoto Senior Member

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    Assuming it's original, you have a very old and tired HV battery and this:

    was the straw that broke that camels back.

    You can read the link in my signature to see what I did a couple of years ago when the battery in my 06 began failing. It will also help explain some of the options available to you.

    GOOD LUCK!
     
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  13. ericbecky

    ericbecky Hybrid Battery Hero

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    I missed that part.
    Well, maybe there is hope?
    Get a high voltage charger and charge things up.

    May be able to try other options forcing battery to charge up while simultaneously clearing codes.
     
  14. jerrymildred

    jerrymildred Senior Member

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    A good cleaning of all the connections in the battery and then a grid charge with a Prolong charger may get you back on the road, but no guarantees. If it was my car, with an HV battery that old that's been drained that low, I'd be more inclined to get a new battery if the car is still in good shape otherwise. The brake actuator and the air conditioning are the main expenses aside from the HV battery, so you've already gotten one out of the way.

    But I would pay more attention to the advice of @ChapmanF and @ericbecky. They have way more experience in this area than most of us.

    BTW, Chap. When I said "random" codes, I was not being very careful with my words. I think "seemingly random" would have been a better way to say it. I know that there are relationships between the events, but if someone hasn't worked them out, they don't make sense.
     
  15. Mustache

    Mustache New Member

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    So, I have 6 options in descending order:

    1. Get a new Toyota battery ($2295) @hometownhybrids
    2. Get a new cylinder battery ($1600) @newpriusbatteries
    3. Get a rebuilt/reconditioned battery ($995) @hometownhybrids
    4. Recondition my pack and install 4 new cells ($460 + 120 = $580) @hybridautomotive & ? (eBay?)
    5. Recondition my pack and install 2 new cells ($460 + 60 = $520) @hybridautomotive & ? (eBay?)
    6. Recondition my pack and get lucky that cells 7 and 9 spring back to life ($460) @hybridautomotive

    Question: any recommended place to get the cells should I need them or just go to eBay (they're $30 there)?

    Question about the other codes, do I need to worry about those right now? I'd had to drop $460 on the reconditioner and have a dead car at the end of this party.

    Thanks so much for the help thus far guys. You're killing it as a community.
     
  16. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    Sorry to have gone on at such length about that ... it's a notion that gets bounced around here by a lot more than just you, and sometimes by people who really double down on the idea that the ECUs are 'confused' and reporting 'random' codes.

    'Seemingly random' when one hasn't done the homework to see the relationships, is an apt way of putting it.

    -Chap
     
  17. jerrymildred

    jerrymildred Senior Member

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    There are a couple people here who sell them. @jeff652 at Replacement Toyota Prius Module &ndash; Hybrid Automotive is one. It would be pretty convenient to get the module from the same place as the charger if you choose that route. I'm not sure, bu I think @Texas Hybrid Batteries (Matt) with Texas Prius Battery Replacement might as well. And @ericbecky could be another source. Any of them would be better, imho, than rolling the dice with a stranger on Ebay.

    Yeah. For a while I was thinking it random. But I began to realize that there were all these messenger codes and to see somewhat of a pattern in the codes people were reporting. Plus, I imagine that different components have different power and voltage thresholds below which they stop working and I'd expect them to be fairly consistent from car to car.