prius will not go into drive unless obd2 codes are reset

What codes are you clearing? You are likely doing serious damage to the hybrid system, get them read then you may have an idea of what to do to address your issues.

 

There's a big problem with that car.
1. Can you check your inverter pump to see if its swirling? If it isn't, the temperature would rise such much, and cause damages.

2. Do you see a turtle sign light kit on the MFD, or something lime a thermometer?

3. Is your 12V still OK, and not that bad? You won't know, until you load test it.

4. If you got a p0420 code, which is a catalytic converter code related, have that inspected to be sure.
If its bad, it would have blocked the exhaust system, preventing free exit of combustion gases.

5. Have you checked your coolant level? Too low a coolant, might be a top gasket problem, before the previous owner sold the car to you.




Dxta

 

Dxta asked.....1. Can you check your inverter pump to see if its swirling? If it isn't, the temperature would rise such much, and cause damages.

Jake replied....1 The pump is good the fliud is moving and mh1 and inverter all at normal temperatures

Then Jake said....5 the coolant levels look good not 100% sure how to check the inverter coolant but it looks like all my other cars

So now I'm really confused..........How do you know the pump is good, the fluid is moving but you're not sure how to check the inverter coolant? Maybe there's some confusion about which system we're discussing? Are you sure the reply to Dxta's question 1 was the inverter cooling loop?

 

I see that you have the red triangle of death, but no codes on the reader. That's a dead giveaway that the reader is not Prius literate.

And I agree that line #1 and line #5 in your #4 post seem to be mutually exclusive.

Just out of curiosity, what color is the coolant in this car you just bought?

 

The turtle dove kinda light I'm talking about, would lit on the MFD, and not the instrument cluster.

Definitely the triangle light depicts so e kind of issues with the HV system(s).


Dxta

 

Showing you zero codes when there are some falls a bit short of my definition of 'flawless'.

Techstream gets used around here a lot. If you were a Toyota dealer, it's what you would use.

-Chap

 

Why would you knowingly purchase a vehicle that has problems that you don't know how to repair?

Tell your friend to stop guessing. A coolant control valve failure WILL NOT produce the Master Warning Light (RED exclamation point w/in RED triangle), it will produce the check engine light. Furthermore, failure by this valve will not cause any overheating issues. It can prevent the cabin heater core from receiving hot engine coolant, and you will just be freezing in the car if you wanted to get heat.

Your code reader is JUNK; donate it to Goodwill.

Get mini VCI and Techstream from Amazon/eBay. All the cables and software will likely have come from the same one, two, or three producers in China. Quality of the cables is all over the place, so be prepared to buy a second cable, or even a third, unless you are capable of doing pin repairs. Installation is easiest on a Windows laptop w/ a 32bit OS (XP, Vista, 7). Mac install is possible; many postings here and other Toyota user groups (ie Tundra). Ask friends/family/coworkers if they work in IT or know someone who is in IT, as this person will likely have obsolete laptops laying around collecting dust somewhere.

Techstream will READ ALL Prius codes.
Techstream is the official diagnostic software written for Toyota/Lexus vehicles.
Techstream is what all the Toyota dealers use.
Not using Techstream = NO guarantee of reading ALL Prius codes.

Because the Techstream software that comes w/ the cable or you find online, is a cracked copy, it is best to install on a spare laptop that is only used for diagnostic purposes.

It behooves you to get a temporary two day subscription, $20, to Toyota TIS (Technical Information Subscription);
https://techinfo.toyota.com/techInfoPortal/appmanager/t3/ti?_nfpb=true&_pageLabel=ti_home_page&contextType=external&username=string&password=secure_string&challenge_url=https://techinfo.toyota.com/techInfoPortal/login/techinfo&request_id=1089837176732036273&authn_try_count=0&locale=en_US&resource_url=https%3A%2F%2Ftechinfo.toyota.com%2F
This will give you access to the factory service manual, codes, diagnostic trouble shooting tree, and much much more. Haynes/Chilton is junk compared to the factory service manual.

This person discovered how to convert CHM file format to PDF, thereby allowing him to save a copy of the service manual.
Toyota TIS download tips | PriusChat

 

I can't add to that.

 

I can add one thing ... the notion that techinfo documentation is in CHM format (a Microsoft format that compiles a bunch of HTML into a single file) has been in circulation around here for a while, but I have not seen any evidence of it.

When you sign in to techinfo and look at the manuals, they come at you as ordinary HTML pages from a web server, one at a time as you request them, with illustrations that are PNG, and some JavaScript for the navigation. Pretty bog-standard stuff really. The wiring diagram viewer uses a lot of SVG (another very standard graphic format, for vector drawings) and a tour-de-force of JavaScript that lets you highlight individual components and circuits, follow wiring around, and other cool stuff like that.

It is just possible that the CHM factoid is true about their backend server, and that the files are in that format in storage, and their service extracts the HTMLs and PNGs from that and serves them out in response to your requests. But that would be an internal detail that matters not at all to what you see as a customer; it wouldn't be possible even to prove or disprove it without inside knowledge. Which also means it doesn't matter.

What you encounter as a techinfo user is a bunch of HTML, PNG, SVG, and JavaScript. People who have made big print files of the stuff have not done it by converting some obscure Microsoft help format to PDF, they've done it by clicking 'Print to File' an insane number of times and glomming the results together (in totally shuffled order, in the case of the widely-circulated Gen 3 copy). Or they may have done some scripting to make the insane number of clicks for them, but that doesn't essentially change the process.

-Chap

 

Probably a HV leak inside the battery. P0AA6 is a code that most scanners have trouble picking up but it's the most common one that keeps the car from going into READY mode.

 

If you can get this sorted out, y not ask someone over here, who might be closer to you, help you out, or you pay someone to do the job for ya?