Catalytic Converter

It should be bolted on, it shouldn’t be welded on. It’s underneath your vehicle, it’s after the exhaust manifold.

 

I've attached an excerpt from Repair Manual. There's an odd duplication, maybe the versions with/without exhaust heat recirculation, I haven't really read through it. The manual is very terse, but has info.

 

The really good news is that since you live on somewhat freer soil, you can buy a new bolt-on replacement for less than $200 - shipped, and you may be able to yank one off of a salvaged car for less.

Good Luck!

 

Could I just add that it kind of looks like a smallish muffler, but if you are under there and carefully look down the length of the exhaust system, you will see the real muffler a bit “downstream “ from the catalytic converter.
Thank you ETC(SS) for the price quote, as the doggone things used to be very expensive and I am relieved to know that getting one for our 2012 won’t be such a hard knock, if it becomes necessary.

 

Am I reading this right, the kosher part is $1200 and change?

Exhaust Components for 2010 Toyota Prius | Toyota Parts

So if you go aftermarket you cut off and weld in a just the catalytic converter portion?

Here's some info on the Oxygen Sensors, I think they need to be transferred over?

 

Not sure, but the thing sticking out to the left in picture number 3 that looks kind of like a super-sized sparkplug is the oxygen sensor, i believe. Usually they are really rusted in, so be careful when you try to back it out and expect it to be a PITA.
Not sure what that melted plastic thing in pic 1 is, but it surely would be good to know if it is successfully functioning or not, especially after you install the new cat.
Good luck and thanks for pics!

 

I'm not sure what you were referring to in your first picture, but in the center of the picture is nothing but a white plastic shield that covers the orange high-voltage cabling from the battery to the engine compartment, to protect it where it makes a bend or passes through the sheet metal.

The OEM exhaust was made in only two parts: the forward part attaches to the manifold in front, includes the catalytic converter(s?) and the heat recycler and a long squiggly pipe all the way back to the one bolted joint to the aft section, which is a shorter squiggly pipe, the muffler, and tailpipe.

The part you bought looks like they probably expect you to cut your original front pipe assembly ahead of the heat recycler and weld your replacement part to it.

 

I was looking into Oxygen sensor replacement for a while, have these two items in my Amazon "save for later":



You should research to verify they're compatible, I'm not sure myself, but those were two options I was considering. Can you get a caliper on on either, check the face-to-face dim of the hexagon faces?

You could search for the sst number in the attachment, in my post #6, maybe that's what I did as well? Can't recall.

 

I don't think it's going to hurt anything. It might not be hard to find a way to heat-shield it a little better as you're putting your exhaust back on, maybe cut a little piece of aluminum sheet to roll loosely around it. (Would probably want to fold/beat the edges smooth to make sure you're not making anything that could dig into the cable, which would be protecting from one problem by making a worse one.)

-Chap

 

If they can clear codes they must be able to read codes, and if there's a lot of warning lights there must be code(s).

 

Maybe a visit to dealership ($75~) and a Techstream check is needed. I've had similar lights (brake, ABS, etc), plus "CHECK HYBRID SYSTEM")when it was apparently my ScanGuage being constantly hooked up to the OBD port. I brought it into the dealership I believe 3 times, and the last time the mechanic noted that when he wiggled his OBD port connector he was intermittently loosing signal. He suggested I try disconnecting the SG, and see if that stopped the warnings.

That was over 3 years back, I took his advise, and no further warnings lights. Bottom line, it might just be some sort of intermittent drop-of-signal, caused by the shop hooking up, jiggled something. Try the dealership, I'll bet they will find codes, and maybe if they dismiss them they'll stay gone? Knock on wood.

 

Somehow the muffler shop did a real number on it...

 

I wonder if they messed with any of the abs components. I know if the abs control module a.k.a ebcm is faulty, the parking and abs light is lit, also the traction control is part of the abs circuit. I would look through that area.