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2009 - “IGN” fuse, ignition system Fuse issue

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Technical Discussion' started by Erisen, Sep 28, 2018.

  1. Erisen

    Erisen Junior Member

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    I was driving my 2009 Prius (50K Miles all in good working condition), and all of a sudden the vehicle stopped! Literally dead. After going possible issues here and there, I started to check the fuses and realized that the #31 Fuse in the engine compartment - “IGN” fuse, ignition system - has gone bad. I replaced with a spare, the car started and drove as usual.

    I called my mechanic and also Toyota Dealership Service, they both advised me to move on and come back for diagnostics if this problem keeps repeating it self.

    1. It was scary that car would be dead. I don't know what would have happened if this was in the middle of a freeway.

    2. The Toyota guy said he never heard about it, but he was so casual about it.

    I have mixed feelings about going back on the road again. Is this pretty common to happen every once in a while, or shall I try to go and get the car diagnosed?

    Is there any place in the vehicle that you would recommend me to check electrical? There is nothing installed in the car in addition to what comes with it. It has a navigation. I am using belkin apple approve car charger to charge my phone.
     
  2. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    have you owned the car since new?
     
  3. TMR-JWAP

    TMR-JWAP Senior Member

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    Start with making sure it was a 7.5 amp fuse, as that is what SHOULD be there.

    The IGN fuse supplies:
    Brake Control System
    Combination meter
    Cruise control
    Engine control
    EPS
    Push button start system and hybrid vehicle immobilizer system
    Shift control system
    SRS
    Toyota hybrid system

    I realize that info is a bit general, but hopefully it helps a little. Do you recall anyhting you may have done just prior to the fuse blowing?
     
  4. edthefox5

    edthefox5 Senior Member

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    Bad combo.
     
  5. Erisen

    Erisen Junior Member

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    nope. I did not own her since new. I purchased from the 1st owner, about 18 months ago at 35K miles, not we are at 50K.
    According to the documentation, it was a 15AMP, I did replace it with 15 AMP.

    Now after work, I realized that AC stopped blowing not so cold, then kind a warm. Then the Hybrid dead warning message and all sorts of error messages came out. Anyway, car drove fine. The battery is still under warranty for another 7 months. So Toyota wanted to charge $130 do diagnose. I went to my mechanic and he ran the test. P0a93 was the error code. That's the inverter cooling system malfunction.

    According to the readings I did, it could have been the pump or the level of the coolant. I was quoted $550 from the mech, $350 from antoher guy, and around $600 from toyota dealer. We checked and actually the pump was replaced during the recall in 2013.

    OK. I went to Autozone, purchased the coolant, and topped off. My level actually was pretty low. The warning light magically disappeared.

    I listened closely, and as it was told in other articles, I kind a heard the pump pumping, and there was a swirly action in the coolant.

    I drove the car a little bit, made sure that the inverter was not extremely hot. Then I decided to take on the freeway.

    After few minutes over 60 MPH, then the light has come back. ACtually the guy in autozone was able to read the error code still when the light was not lit.

    So, I couldn't find a way to reset the warning message. Perhaps, something happened and while the error message was gone, but the error message has never been deleted and it re-surfaced. I was wondering if I should try to reset the warning light and then try again, or go ahead and replace the darn pump.

    BTW, the $350 quote was for the guy (a prius specialist) coming and doing at my place on a Sunday. It was kind a nice.
     
  6. TMR-JWAP

    TMR-JWAP Senior Member

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    Here is the problem. What you are calling the IGN fuse is NOT the IGN fuse. The IGN fuse is 7.5 amp and located in the people compartment. The fuse you are referring to is the AM2 fuse. That is how it's labelled, not as IGN.

    If you had said AM2, we would have instantly put you on the right trail, as it's a very common problem. Replace the pump. It's most likely going bad and can leave you stranded. It's easy to do and the pump can be purchased for about $65 online.

    What kind of coolant did you add? I hope you understand that the problem you have is overheating the inverter. That's why the AC stops working, as it gets powered from the inverter. It's trying to protect itself. Driving it and overheating it is likely to lead to more significant problems. To bad you're not near me, I do it for $150.
     
    #6 TMR-JWAP, Sep 30, 2018
    Last edited: Sep 30, 2018
    SFO likes this.
  7. Erisen

    Erisen Junior Member

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    This is the coolant ı bpufht from o’reiley. The person checked out the model/year and gave me this... is it the same coolant used in the radiator?

    My confusion about the fuse name came from the manual. You are
    Indeed correct; the name is AM2 amp is
    15v and the circuit/deaciprtion is "IGN” fuse, ignition system

    I checked online and local dealer sellers for $100 oem. Where can I find a trustworthy $60 one? I wish you were closer too :)
     

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  8. TMR-JWAP

    TMR-JWAP Senior Member

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  9. Erisen

    Erisen Junior Member

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    Thanks. I think coolant is OK, since you did not say OMG :).
    After doing few reading on resetting the warning light, I decided to unhook the 12V battery, and then reset the lights.
    I restarted the car, I went to O'reiley again. This time the code did not show up on the device.
    I then drove pretty aggressively, AC on to few stores. 8 mile total round trip. I manually checked the inverter's temperature no issues.

    Now, I think my issue wasn't the pump, but the low coolant level. Why I had a low coolant level, I don't know. I changed oil at Firestore the saturday before this happened on a Thursday. I wonder if the either loosened a bolt or something. I'm on a business trip now, and will be back home on Friday. I'll continue to commute with the car to see if the warning light is coming back up. I'm also planning on going to a local mechanic to get the pump checked. I can hear the pump working actually.

    In short, my issues was:
    -AM2 fuse going bad: Your prius stops, dies nothing works.
    -After changing the fuse, AC not blowing cool air
    -All warning light going on especialls Hybrid malfunction / Check engine.
    -Mechanic or Autozone checks out the code and I get P0A93
    -Did readings, and found this one: P0A93 Inverter cooling performance code | PriusChat
    According to this post, gone2green had the very similar issue.

    Holding off the repair for now.
     
  10. edthefox5

    edthefox5 Senior Member

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    I think there’s various levels of circulation of the inverter fluid as the pump gets older. Less and less flow.

    I can tell you with a good working pump and fresh inverter coolant there should be very aggressive movement of the fluid in the inverter reservoir. Th fluid should look like it’s at a very fast boil very aggressive circulation. Tepid movement of old contaminated fluid may not be enough circulation in this day an age of extremely high temps. The dealer does not change the fluid when they install a new pump. They just duckbill Pilar’s the hoses off. So that fluid has never been replaced.

    The fluid gets contaminated by aluminum very abrasive.

    Bottom line is do all you can to improve that coolant flow as the result of poor fluid circulation is inverter
    Overheat and inverter failure. Big repair and not cheap.

    There’s been posts about contamination of the inverter coolant loop and the loop gets clogged
    Caused by poor fluid maintenance.

    Also there should never be any leakage of that fluid. The inverter coolant level should not change.

    So the fact the car ran low on fluid and had to throw a code to alert you to that tells me you don’t open the hood much and check the fluids. That’s a death sentence to a g2 as they use oil as they get older and
    And if the car has to throw a check engine light to get you to check the oil your going to be replacing the engine next.

    I bet the oil is very low on the dipstick right now.
     
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  11. Erisen

    Erisen Junior Member

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    Hello Again,

    edfthefox5 :), I checked the oil, looks great! :) I do maintenance on a regular basis, and this happening right after oil change @Firestone is interesting.


    My issue is resolved thanks you to the replies here, and also great articles I found here on this forum.
    For anyone who has this problem, I wanted to drop few lines from a guy's perspective how has not done any major repair on the car.


    Mechanics shopping:
    1. Guy #1: All inclusive $350, fix at home. Did not say if he is getting the part brand new from Toyota, or he is bringing a refurb one.
    2. Mech#1: $550 with OEM
    3. Toyota: $620 or something in that area, over $600 tho.
    4. Mech#2: 2 hrs of labor and you bring your part: About $250 to fix it.
    5. Toyota #2 (after I bought the part): about 3 hrs of labor, looking at $400-$450 + $ of the part.

    Part: I called my local toyota dealer they quoted $140+tax. Then I realized Toyota Tustin here in OC, CA has an online store, and it was $99+Tax. I bought from them direct.

    So, I did the homework and watched read almost all available material and decided to fix this on my own.

    All was really cool. If you are to do own your own, there are few major decisions that you may want to make before you get started:

    1. Are you flushing the coolant?
    2. which way are you going to access the pump.

    I chose to flush the coolant, as suggested here and in other posts, the coolant actually could have gone bad. I wanted to see what it was.

    I had to buy a 24 mm or 15/16" socket. *Newbie Alert* make sure that it fits your driver.
    I had to buy a pan, capacity is 2.9 Quarts, so I bought a 7 Q pan from the store.
    Since I did not chose to keep the coolant I did not need hose clamp pliers. But if you are keeping your coolant, I guess you may want to do yourself a favor and have them before you start your project.
    10 mm socket.

    The method I chose was to remove the headlight assembly at the passenger side. It was really easy to get there, but 1 newbie advise: Undo this jack, so it's easy to keep the headlight out of the way.
    upload_2018-10-8_12-6-34.png

    Since I decided to do the flush, once I came to this point and convinced my self that I can go ahead, then I flushed the coolant. I did not buy a washer, used the existing one, it's pretty easy just a little force to cut it lose, then slide the pan. I used gloves and took the part out manually, so I don't have to fish for it.

    upload_2018-10-8_12-9-47.png

    First obstacle I came across removing the as explained in this post

    "Remove the black plastic cover over the radiator. Then remove a nut and a bolt that secures a bracket for a water valve located near the pump. The reason that you have to remove the valve is because that bracket is mounted on the same stud, and located on top of the bracket for the inverter coolant pump. Then remove the bolt that secures the back end of the pump"

    That bracket threw me off a little both taking out and putting back, but it was nothing.

    Anyway, after I took the pump out, I put the new one in. I saw that there was debris in the coolant, so I filled out my reservoir with water, ran the pump and the water, the flushed again. I used the time to put the car back together. The clips (plastic crap that holds the black plastic cover. I'll go buy new ones today.

    No other issues or obstacles. After I did tighten the coolant bolt, I dried it really well. Put the coolant in and tested again. Please note that you have to get the air out. So I had to fill to max few times. There is an overfill drain at the top, and if you overfill coolant will be going under the car. Don't panic that you did not close all you hoses :).

    Anyway, thanks to this forum, I read great articles, and brought this baby home. With the coolant, stuff I bough and will buy, I'll probably by at $150.

    After the repair is done, drove about 60 miles in stop and go and freeway up to 80MPH. All is well.

    Thanks. upload_2018-10-8_12-6-34.png upload_2018-10-8_12-9-47.png
     
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