Forced Warp-Stealth Mod?

I've put some thought into this and at first I bought a remote throttle adjuster. It is a cable that runs through a housing like bicycle brakes, but with a large button on one end. I could not bear drilling a hole in my dash so I thought about it some more.

Next I realized that the whole car is fly by wire and you could use a small adjustable potentiometer to bypass the peddle and just send a slight signal to the computers. I would then want to add a push button to turn it on and off. Finally, I would want to one day add a safety feature that if you pressed the brake it would shut off automatically.

I realized that you still use power from the battery to run the motor during this process. That is why I want to build a Trans-Warp Stealth Drive to power the system during Warp Stealth and allow for more use of the Warp Stealth without running down the battery so the engine has to come back on.

Finally, I figured I could use a switch to separate the main battery from the motor all together. With another switch to separate the accelerator pedal from the system all together. Then add an additional battery pack. You could keep all the systems running from the main battery with the car in neutral. Let the additional battery pack power the motor through the accelerator pedal. It would be two independent systems working at the same time.

The first system would be the Prius without the motor or accelerator pedal. The Prius would just think your not pressing the pedal. When you coast the Prius would be in neutral so there would be no regenerative brakes working.

The second system would just have three parts, A battery, accelerator, and the motor.

With a flick of a switch you could be back to the second battery just sitting in the trunk and the Prius working normally again. You would not need spoofing circuits like cal-cars uses.

The limitation of the second system would be a 34 mph speed limit. The distance would depend on the size of your second battery pack.

I hope to be able to do this sometime this year, or early next year. That way I could drive 30 miles a day on battery power charged from a solar array on my home during the week. On weekends I would have to use gas for long trips. During long trips I might just remove the battery to save space and weight, then pop it back in for the workweek.

 

one thing to think about first.
at first it would seem there are three levels of >40mph ev: green (regen) yellow (warp stealth) and null (no energy paths, true warp stealth). but in reality there's a lot more. you don't have to hit that magic spot to cause a difference. sure if you have a real steady foot you can achieve true warp stealth, but even without one you can come close.
when it's green the car is in regen mode, but it varies depending on how far the pedal is pressed while it's green. in "true warp stealth mode" what is actually happening is the car is regenning the same amount of power needed to spin the ice. it might be more beneficial to get a slightly higher regen, just barely less pressure on the pedal.

conclusion:
don't worry so much about hitting that magic point, just give it enough pressure to remove most of the regen.

this is only my opinion.

 

From my observations it position of the pedal needed to activate warp stealth varies depending on the SOC of the main battery. The more energy in the main battery the easier it is to achieve Warp Stealth. As the SOC drops toward four bars it is much harder to get in to Warp Stealth, if at all.

So, the pedal position changes every time you try to Warp Stealth.

Has anyone else noticed this?

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(darkecho @ Aug 12 2006, 09:57 AM) [snapback]301834[/snapback]</div>

I've never seen any mpg increment or any real mpg increment report about the Warp-Stealth.
Would you please let us know the pointer?

Ken@Japan

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(darkecho @ Aug 14 2006, 02:37 PM) [snapback]302878[/snapback]</div>

Again, I can't find any improved MPG number on his site.

Ken@Japan

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(darkecho @ Aug 15 2006, 02:49 AM) [snapback]303077[/snapback]</div>

I don't know.
Let's think about this way...
There is about 510N(newton) running resistance at 100km/h(62MPH). Prius requires 51MJ of energy to run 100km.
It consumes 3.98L of gasoline when the system efficiency is 37% max, which means 25.1km/L(59MPG).
So, the max ideal mileage number is 59MPG at 62MPH. There is no magic or no(or very little) space to improve mpg number above 42MPH.

Below 42MPH, we know the P&G works well. A newbie or just drive type see about 50MPG, the P&G masters see 60-70MPG and the marathon team saw 110MPG. There are huge improvement.

I would suggest to use CC and just relax above 42MPH.

Ken@Japan

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(ken1784 @ Aug 14 2006, 10:38 PM) [snapback]303316[/snapback]</div>

Apparently there is space to improve it. See this:

http://techno-fandom.org/~hobbit/cars/sweet/

(Found through a related discussion in Yahoo's Prius Technical Stuff group)

Admittedly he has installed instrumentation that most Prii don't have. But still, he demonstrates the capability of MPG in the upper 60s at highway speeds. He also has some guidance for those of us without his instrumentation on how to use the MFD and some degree of guesswork to approximate what his instruments tell him quantitatively.

Jim

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(JimboK @ Aug 15 2006, 08:40 PM) [snapback]303429[/snapback]</div>

I'm looking forward to seeing the real improved numbers than the CC method.
Has anyone seen such improved numbers than the CC method?

Ken@Japan

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(darkecho @ Aug 16 2006, 07:22 AM) [snapback]303768[/snapback]</div>

I gave up because of fail-safe issue, but Bob Wilson is trying...
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Prius_...f/message/17844

Ken@Japan

 

I'm really just starting to explore this sweet-spot thing and a lot
more research needs to be done, so I don't *have* any hard numbers
other than the MFD shots given, how I do on the next few months'
worth of tanks, and a fairly positive feeling that I'm onto something
fairly useful here. Hard-line A/B/A/B testing of sweet-spot
methodology vs. cruise control would take a while, over a few
different round-trip routes involving varied sets of speed and
terrain, and I haven't had enough time to go out and do that.
One or two other people have tried messing with the non-instrumented
guidelines and seem to have come up with good results, but that's
not hard numbers either.
.
It *is* clear to me, nonetheless, that warp-stealth *is* the moral
equivalent of "glide" at high speed. It pulls a little more battery
current, but about the same as the "slightly-augmented-glide" I've
come to favor over pure no-arrows mode [it helps keep my speed more
uniform, somewhat for the benefit of people behind me]
.
_H*

 

All we know is there is no magic above 42 mph. Just slower speed results better mileage.
Regarding to the throttle control, our throttle is just for a power request signal.
Below is very good study about this, especially page 49 - 62...
http://www.engin.umd.umich.edu/vi/w4_works.../Miller_W04.pdf

Ken@Japan