Recommended rotors for 2011 prius

i would guess most use oems. you can google than pick an online dealer.

how many miles on your car?

 

You're in California, what could be wrong with the rotors?

 

Used these to replace the rusty OEM's:

Front: WAGNER BD180387E
Rear: WAGNER BD126558E

Black E-Coat on non-braking surface to prevent rust and corrosion. The OEM's do not have this.

 

we're just wondering why you need rotors. pretty unusual on a 2011 unless your in the salt belt

 

I think the point is that due to the prius's regenerative braking taking place in the CVT, the brake pads, and in turns rotors, get a lot less wear and tear than normal cars. Given that California generally doesn't have need to salt their roads, the #1 source of rust and corrosion also isn't an issue.

Given that everyone here is super nerdy about anything that could ever possibly be wrong on a prius, he probably just wanted to know what your conditions were that lead to this.

 

and double!

 

$214 and hour!!!!! That is INSANE!
You could take an automotive course and at community college for that price and learn how to do it yourself! It's rare the rear rotors need replacing. Also rare they get warped. Did the pads wear
down to the metal destroying the rotors? Maybe they didn't need to be replaced or machined/turned.
When I install new pads with old rotor I just take some rough sandpaper to them to clean them up.

 

2011 TOYOTA PRIUS 1.8L L4 ELECTRIC/GAS Rotor | RockAuto

$32 each for a decent rotor

 

I was gonna ask if you measured the thickness and runout, post the spec, but sounds like you've got all the answers.

 

Yeah front and rear rotor thicknesses are both very close to new. I rarely if ever replace rotors, just pads.

Front:



Rear:

 

The other criteria is runout, which is also in the attachment. Bottom line though, even if runout is near the limit, if you're not feeling a distinct pulsing when braking, it's fine.

Seems like a lot of people changer rotors because "they're rusty". Rotors are not stainless steel, and for sure any parts not constantly brushed by the pads will rust, but it doesn't effect operation.

Be careful with the rear brakes: there's a cross-pattern on the caliper piston face, that must be correctly oriented (see attachment), and well seated thus, to prevent brake drag, uneven wear, all sorts of mayhem. If the mechanic is not experienced with 3rd gen Prius, print the attachment out for him. It's good to get the pistons properly oriented, everything installed, brake pedal pressed multiple times to seat everything. Then test drive. Then (and only then) apply/release the parking brake a few times. Then raise the rear and verify the wheels are turning semi-freely, able to spin a revolution or two with a good push.

Also, it's really good to disconnect the negative battery cable before disassembling anything: if the brake pressurization happens while a caliper is off a rotor, there's a good chance it'll push a piston right out.

Also, I'd be inclined to not open bleed screws when pushing piston back to accommodate new pads: the car may throw a code. And front or rear: do multiple brake pedal pushes when done, to seat everything, before reconnection of negative brake cable.

 

don't think this is a diy job

byop = bring your own parts

 

I'm thinking an unwary mechanic could create mayhem. And that's frustrating. Just valet parking, the car can get messed up.

 

Like lose your key.

Had that happen 4 years ago and to this day when we go back to the same place, the manager still remembers.