1. Attachments are working again! Check out this thread for more details and to report any other bugs.

Car won’t start, only check engine light on

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Technical Discussion' started by AVS1, Nov 23, 2018.

  1. 05PreeUs

    05PreeUs Senior Member

    Joined:
    Oct 1, 2016
    1,097
    563
    0
    Location:
    MSP
    Vehicle:
    2005 Prius
    Model:
    N/A
    Let me take a stab at this....

    1) Measure the battery voltage at the 12V when you go to power up
    2) Compare that to the video you posted, down to 10.xxV.
    3) If BOTH readings go below 11.5V, the 12v is DOA, PERIOD.

    HOWEVER.....

    If the battery measures "good" at itself and "low" at the front jump location, you have what we call "voltage drop"; which is typically either a corroded wire, terminal or some looseness in a connection. I DOUBT THIS.

    The fact you cannot get a reading from the scan tool, suggests a blown fuse(s) or low system voltage (many will not read if the system voltage is much below 12.2v).

    That one last test, #1 above, will tell for SURE if the 12v is good or bad, but thus far I am leaning toward "bad".
     
  2. TMR-JWAP

    TMR-JWAP Senior Member

    Joined:
    Aug 12, 2016
    6,058
    5,783
    0
    Location:
    Columbia, SC
    Vehicle:
    2007 Prius
    Model:
    Touring
    Now I'm really confused. I'm in Columbia, SC. I assumed you were in Wilton, ME, as that is what your picture says. I just throew out a quick ad I found in the Maine CG. If you're in E TX (east Texas?) that's a bit of a drive from Maine.... Can you give us a zip code?
     
    Raytheeagle and Skibob like this.
  3. debbiehoke

    debbiehoke Junior Member

    Joined:
    Mar 5, 2009
    6
    2
    0
    Location:
    Wilton, ME
    Vehicle:
    2007 Prius
    77656

    Sorry, that hadnt been updated when I posted and I didn't realize it. Guys, I really appreciate all the help and advice! I have been up against a deadline to get my Prius out of the shop where I left it and needed transportation besides, SO, I cried for a while, gave up and traded my car in today. Unfortunately I couldn't afford another Prius, so I guess I'll be saying so long to my good friends here after 11 long years. I have TRULY loved this car!!! I'd recommend it to ANY one and this website to them as support. Thanks again. Bye!
     
    bisco likes this.
  4. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

    Joined:
    May 11, 2005
    107,571
    48,862
    0
    Location:
    boston
    Vehicle:
    2012 Prius Plug-in
    Model:
    Plug-in Base
    au revoir! all the best(y)
     
  5. AVS1

    AVS1 Junior Member

    Joined:
    Nov 23, 2018
    32
    26
    0
    Location:
    Chicago
    Vehicle:
    2008 Prius
    Model:
    ----USA----
    Update - I took it to a mechanic - said that they need to replace a relay in the fuse box. Said he could get the part from dealer or get a used box and swap out other components that may be bad.

    Total to fix $706. Which includes the towing and diagnostics etc.
     

    Attached Files:

  6. edthefox5

    edthefox5 Senior Member

    Joined:
    Jul 25, 2007
    10,096
    4,795
    0
    Location:
    Clearwater, Florida
    Vehicle:
    2007 Prius
    Model:
    Two
    .
     
    #46 edthefox5, Dec 7, 2018
    Last edited: Dec 7, 2018
  7. Mrs.Diamond

    Mrs.Diamond Junior Member

    Joined:
    Feb 20, 2018
    66
    11
    0
    Location:
    Minneapolis, MN
    Vehicle:
    2009 Prius
    Model:
    Three
    Did you end up parting the car out?
     
  8. jerrymildred

    jerrymildred Senior Member

    Joined:
    Oct 28, 2016
    11,490
    14,095
    0
    Location:
    Tampa, FL
    Vehicle:
    2017 Prius
    Model:
    Two
    See post # 43. ;)
     
  9. AVS1

    AVS1 Junior Member

    Joined:
    Nov 23, 2018
    32
    26
    0
    Location:
    Chicago
    Vehicle:
    2008 Prius
    Model:
    ----USA----
    Update to the update. The 12v battery died a few times after I had this job done. I ended up buying a new optima battery for $235. I think this was the root problem the whole time. I also had issues with the car alarm going off randomly back in mid 2017, which may have attributed to the issue.

    The dealer that did the repairs said that the battery tested at 300 (?) and said it’s likely that it will probably need to be replaced soon. I took it to AutoZone before I have the work done and they said the battery was fine, so don’t always trust that whoever is testing the battery knows what they are doing.

    So assuming the car alarm issue was attributed to the 12 V battery going bad back in 2017, I could’ve avoided a lot of costly repairs just by replacing the battery. Also, the car has 220,000 miles and is an 08 and it’s the original battery so it certainly was time.
     
    Raytheeagle and bisco like this.
  10. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

    Joined:
    May 11, 2005
    107,571
    48,862
    0
    Location:
    boston
    Vehicle:
    2012 Prius Plug-in
    Model:
    Plug-in Base
    glad you're fixed!
    unfortunately, when we recommend testing the 12v first, there are a lot of scoffers
     
  11. Bosko7

    Bosko7 New Member

    Joined:
    Apr 26, 2019
    3
    0
    0
    Location:
    florida
    Vehicle:
    2008 Prius
    Model:
    Two
    Hello All,
    I saw this post started by AVS1 and was seeking some additional information regarding the relay repair.
    I have the exact same symptoms mentioned in the OP however, I ended up changing the 12V battery first.
    After replacing the battery, I now have no dash lights, check engine light, fuse 14/17 blown etc. the exact issues.
    AVS1 mentioned relay repairs but didn't outline which relay(s) were replaced? Was the issue inside the car (by the left knee, driver side) or was it one of the relays under the hood?
    I'm in the midst of doing some troubleshooting and was hoping you could give me some more insight in order to narrow down the problem.
     
  12. AVS1

    AVS1 Junior Member

    Joined:
    Nov 23, 2018
    32
    26
    0
    Location:
    Chicago
    Vehicle:
    2008 Prius
    Model:
    ----USA----
    The box that they replaced was the one under the hood on the right side. They said it was part of a larger assembly, but that they only needed that fuse box. That seemed to be the trick. Ultimate issue - 12v battery was dead and a botched jump that made it worse.
     
  13. Bosko7

    Bosko7 New Member

    Joined:
    Apr 26, 2019
    3
    0
    0
    Location:
    florida
    Vehicle:
    2008 Prius
    Model:
    Two
    UPDATE: Just an update for those having same issues and solution (for me).
    Original symptoms: Car dead/not starting in the parking lot. Car attempted to be jumped to no avail and was towed home.
    The 12V battery was dead and replaced with Toyota battery ($215) however, the car would still not turn-on/start only check engine light, no dash lights, green parking light on (all described by AVS1 in original post).
    After doing some troubleshooting, fuses found in the engine box (ETCS-10A and DOME-15A ~ Free) were burned out. In addition, the "Fusible Link" DC/DC connection had also burned out.
    Used the following guide to replace Fusible Link (p/n 82620-47050 ~$85)
    How to change Fusible link under hood | PriusChat
    The car starts and is derivable however, I now have RED TRIANGLE and another ((!)) notice on the dash. Hopefully something else wasn't messed up when jumped or towed!!!! Time to do some more research.
    Word to the wise: DO NOT LET ANYONE JUMP START YOUR PRIUS UNLESS THEY REALLY KNOW WHAT THEY'RE DOING!!!

    -Thanks to AVS1 for the personal replies and 3prongpaul for the great Fusible link replacement guide.
     
  14. jerrymildred

    jerrymildred Senior Member

    Joined:
    Oct 28, 2016
    11,490
    14,095
    0
    Location:
    Tampa, FL
    Vehicle:
    2017 Prius
    Model:
    Two
    A good sign that the jumper cables were connected backwards. There are probably other blown fuses. Possibly inverter damage. You won't know till you find all the blown fuses.

    I got a lithium jump pack that checks polarity. I will NOT let someone jump my Prius. Ever. I would do it myself, though, but everyone else better stand back. Nice thing about the jump pack is that I can also safely jump other cars.

    So far, I've never needed a jump in a Prius, but it'll probably happen someday.
     
    Skibob likes this.
  15. Lego_Gnome

    Lego_Gnome New Member

    Joined:
    Dec 18, 2020
    6
    0
    0
    Location:
    Ohio
    Vehicle:
    2007 Prius
    Model:
    Base
    Sorry if im bringing back a zombie Post, but I'm curious,
    My car is doing exactly the same thing this video has, and was wondering if this could be related to a rear end impact 30-40 mph, at a stop.. I got my car back from the body shop and it worked fine going home and then 1 day back and forth to work 30 mins each way then like a hour drive I stopped to pick up a computer from a friend with the back door open for about 15 mins talking then when i went to get in everything was completely dead,, After several times of trying to get it to come on I poped the hood and opened the cover plate to the fuse box and hooked up my little UPS 12v jump battery and still nothing I touched a few of the like inch by inch square "relay's" I guess and it crackled alive and all worked fine again to get home, I trickle charged the 12v Aux battery tinkering thinking pulling a few the main boxes in the fuse box checking for corrosion they were all extremely clean and shiny that I checked. Like 4 the easier ones to hand pull. Hooked everything up and it worked fine almost a whole day then was all dead again, after dinner. I' figured at 13 years and 300k miles the 12v aux battery might be issue ,, I went to pull the 12v aux battery was covered in water on the bracket and pulled it the shop tested said it was faulting, so replaced it but now I have the issues in the video above.. having read through several threads Im going to go up and check some the dash fuses and the "main fusible link" and for 12v on the front battery post, I just find it really odd how all this just occurred. Or could be related to the impact ? I've jumped this car on several occasions with no issue other than trying to get a clip on the tiny little front post POS access it is for normal cable just like I have always done. The insurance company willing to repair if shop can relay that it is related to the impact or issue of the repair , I wonder about the puddle water in the battery bracket brace could cause issues ??
     
  16. edthefox5

    edthefox5 Senior Member

    Joined:
    Jul 25, 2007
    10,096
    4,795
    0
    Location:
    Clearwater, Florida
    Vehicle:
    2007 Prius
    Model:
    Two
    “13 years and 300,000 miles the aux 12 volt battery may be the issue”

    lol.....

    get a voltmeter with car off what’s the voltage at the front jump point?
    The front jump point is not hard to attach to there’s a vertical metal tang that’s bolted there so you can attach a jumper claw. Not hard to attach anything there.
    Puddle of water in battery well is common there’s a rubber plug in the bottom of the well you can remove that there’s also water under the spare tire.
    G2s have many leaks.
    Either the new battery was stale and had a poor charge on it to begin with or was poorly installed and you have loose connections back there. A voltage test at the front jump point will show.
    With car off turn on the headlights in high beam and while there on measure the voltage at the front jump point.
    Should be at least 12.4
     
  17. Lego_Gnome

    Lego_Gnome New Member

    Joined:
    Dec 18, 2020
    6
    0
    0
    Location:
    Ohio
    Vehicle:
    2007 Prius
    Model:
    Base


    Ok so I made it up there to review everything today, I have 12.75 v at the new battery , at the front post it fluxes from 2.2v to 11.5v all over the place never stops changing. The AM2 fuse is good so is the linear fuse. which point the shop its at was like Good Luck suggest I take it to someone works on Prius's..
     
  18. Lego_Gnome

    Lego_Gnome New Member

    Joined:
    Dec 18, 2020
    6
    0
    0
    Location:
    Ohio
    Vehicle:
    2007 Prius
    Model:
    Base
    Ok so forgot to check for nest behind the glove box, so I went back to look it over some more, Seems was one ontop the cabin filter, but didnt see anything chewed up other than the filter, I did get a steady 12.8 v on the front terminal when i I used the one star bolt on top the engine, when I turn the car on there was clicking when it would hum it drop to 11.4v , go to 12.2v when not humming,, I ended up going threw all the fuses, replaced the ETCS and the Dome fuses, and took the cover off the liner fuse there was a hair line break in the DC/DC deployed the 8 penny solution I think (TMR-JWAP) had in another post.. Everything came back to life and now there power to everything and running again enough to bring it home there is a the Big Red Triangle though. I'm guessing now there is power can probably pull codes finally, figure out where this leads, next..

    Real question is could being hit at stop by 30-40 mpg crack the dc/dc linear ? Just find it really weird the car only worked for about 3 hours driving time after getting the car back from repairs.. or this could be caused by something shifting in the HV pack and slow after effect..


     
  19. dolj

    dolj Senior Member

    Joined:
    May 14, 2012
    7,447
    3,751
    0
    Location:
    Wellington, New Zealand
    Vehicle:
    2007 Prius
    Model:
    N/A
    The damage you are describing is synonymous with a cross-polarity jump start. Who could have done that, I wonder?

    Perhaps the hairline crack on the fusible link held closed for just long enough to drive a bit.
     
  20. edthefox5

    edthefox5 Senior Member

    Joined:
    Jul 25, 2007
    10,096
    4,795
    0
    Location:
    Clearwater, Florida
    Vehicle:
    2007 Prius
    Model:
    Two
    Nice troubleshooting I liked that you monitored the 12 volt battery at the jump point during boot up that shows the total load the 12 volt see's at boot up and shows that battery is getting very tired. Its should have held closer to 12 volts than that 11.4 sag. A charger with a recondition mode could possibly make that better.
    When the 12 gets really bad and dips to below 11 volts during boot you will see the RTOD flash when you boot the car . It just flashes momentarily and does not log a code its just a warning the 12 is ready to leave you stranded.
    Its very noticeable on boot up as thats the only bulb/led that does not light on the dash during normal boot up.

    So just keep that in mind the 12 is soft as you go forward chasing the rtod.

    Also at night you can see how bad the 12 is getting if the headlights are close enough on an object to see them turn them on then start the car and watch how momentarily dim they get as the car boots. With that extra light load it may just throw the rtod momentarily.