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2012 Prius horn problem

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Technical Discussion' started by Scott_R, Jan 3, 2019.

  1. Scott_R

    Scott_R Member

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    Over the last two weeks I had some intermittent horn issues: the low tone would sometimes work but more often not.

    I opened the hood today and took off the trim that covers the radiator. The wire that goes into the plug that attaches to the low-tone horn was corroded so that with barely a touch it came apart, just inside the plug.

    I'm assuming this means I'll have to replace the whole harness. How much of a headache is this? Is it a short cable with all the attachment points (plugs) right there, around the radiator, or does this mean running wiring further inside the engine compartment?
     
  2. ASRDogman

    ASRDogman Senior Member

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    Just strip it back until it's clean.
    Then you can add some wire to it and reattach it.
    Make sure you seal it good so it won't corrode again. I take you still have power to it?
     
  3. Pluggo

    Pluggo Senior Member

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    ...or forget the plug and just solder the wire onto the horn terminal.
     
  4. Scott_R

    Scott_R Member

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    Thanks for the replies.

    Am I going to have to take off at least the upper bumper clips? I was barely able to get my one hand in there to remove the plug; I can't see how I can do any work in there without further disassembly. I checked to see if I could remove the Toyota emblem in the bumper for access, but the screws look pretty rusted and I thought I might be creating a second problem in trying to take it out.

    I may have to go the route of soldering the wires straight on, though I'm not keen on the idea, as there's no way I can attach a lead to what remains of the wire inside the plug, unless there's some way to remove and replace it? Or would I have to get a replacement plug?

    Are there two wires or one (i.e., is the horn grounded to the frame in place of a negative)?

    plug.JPG

    wire.JPG
     
  5. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    time for an aftermarket horn?
     
  6. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    Maybe best to remove the bumper.

    Argh, looking through the attachment, maybe not. Either way. Yeah maybe just partial removal, enough to reach in better.

    Looks like just one wire, and current runs back via ground.

    Did someone have the bumper off before, or in there for some reason? Rushing? Odd that it would just break off.
     

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  7. Scott_R

    Scott_R Member

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    Doesn't help the problem with the broken wire.
     
  8. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    i thought it might be easier cut the wires and wire to another horn in an easier location
     
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  9. Scott_R

    Scott_R Member

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    it's not the horn that's hard to access so much as the wire harness. The biggest problem is getting to it so I can strip it down to get bare wire--it looks like there are two contacts in the plug, so I guess two wires--and then soldering wire to it to get to the horn.

    Then I'd like to either get a new plug or find out how to get the wire stuck in it out so I can reuse it. Worst case scenario I can take the horn out and solder straight to it, but I'd prefer if I can use a plug.

    Does anyone know either how to take the wire out without destroying the plug or how to order a replacement?
     
  10. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    Once you sign in to techinfo.toyota.com and pull up the electrical wiring diagram ("EWD" tab) for your car, you can follow along with this post over here to see how you navigate to the drawing of the connector you're looking at, which will show the part number (of the plastic connector housing, which you might not need, if yours looks ok).

    Once you're there, and you click to expand the little "+ Wire Harness Repair" link shown underneath the housing part number, you will also see the part numbers of the repair terminals you're looking for.

    The repair terminals are sold with short lengths of wire (usually 150 mm or so) already attached, so that gives you plenty to unwrap your existing harness and trim those wires well back to good, uncorroded metal. Then you splice to the wire tails of your new terminals (the expanded Wire Harness Repair display will also show you the part numbers of the correct splice sleeves), seal and wrap it all back up, release and remove the old terminals from the plastic housing and snap the new ones in. Done. (If I remember correctly, the Wire Harness Repair display also has a little drawing to show how you let the old terminals out of the housing.)
     
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  11. Scott_R

    Scott_R Member

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    I think I found the part via Google.

    Mendel Leisk: looks like you were right. From the product picture, what I thought were two contacts is a single one with two curled sides.
     
    #11 Scott_R, Jan 3, 2019
    Last edited: Jan 3, 2019
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  12. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    A crimped bullet connector you might be able to manage without bumper removal. More so if you remove that Toyota logo, can reach a hand through. I think it's just screws tapping into plastic, they should come out ok.

    Do NOT drop anything, lol. That goes for the push-in plastic fasteners on the plastic top panel too.
     
  13. ASRDogman

    ASRDogman Senior Member

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    You can remove the screws of top section of the front grill cover, then you can pull it out of the way
    so you can reach inside. That's what I did when I installed the Hella horns. Tight, but doable.
     
  14. Scott_R

    Scott_R Member

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    How about a gel cap wire nut? I have a bunch of these for my underground irrigation system. Waterproof. Or Liquid Tape. I'm debating even trying to solder the connection; I don't know how I'll be able to do that one-handed.
     
  15. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    i think that would be fine, it's just a horn
     
  16. Scott_R

    Scott_R Member

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    Well, the plug should be here on Monday if all goes well (hah!). I'll have to pick up a stubby Phillips screwdriver--one of those things I know I have but can't find--to remove the Toyota emblem and do my best to strip down that wire. I'll see if I can solder it, but I guess it won't be a disaster if I can't and it comes undone. Either way I'll probably go with the liquid tape; I had been leaning to the gel-cap, since it's easier to remove if I have to fiddle, but I don't know how it'll hold with all the movement.
     
  17. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    Even just a twist connector?
     
    #17 Mendel Leisk, Jan 4, 2019
    Last edited: Jan 4, 2019
  18. ASRDogman

    ASRDogman Senior Member

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    You will find the screw driver after the repair! :)
     
  19. Scott_R

    Scott_R Member

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    That's what I meant by the gel cap. It's a wire nut meant for wet locations (like irrigation systems' valve boxes), filled with silicone gel so that even if it gets wet the bare wires inside won't. I just wasn't sure if hundreds of hours of bouncing on the roads might loosen it. I don't have much cable to work with so I I wasn't sure if I can add electrical tape to help keep it on. Does anyone know if that conduit-like outer coating can simply be cut away to expose more of the insulated wire without creating any problems? I don't think I have enough exposed insulated wire to work with as-is.
     
  20. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    I had a look at ours (I can never resist).

    The front logo screws are a little stubborn, just push very firmly at the start. They're just self-tapping into plastic, and even when removed the logo is secured by 4 clips. Once removed it really improves two hand access.

    Also good to unbolt and remove the plain metal hook that retains hood, gives better access from above.

    IMG_9810.JPG IMG_9811.JPG IMG_9812.JPG IMG_9813.JPG
     
    #20 Mendel Leisk, Jan 4, 2019
    Last edited: Jan 4, 2019
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