ABS Pump insulation. Bleed brakes?

I think you can bleed the front brakes as you would a normal car. You pull the ABS motor relays they are in the fuse box under the hood driver side., then put the Car in ON but NOT. Ready mode.. keep in mind you can drain the 12v battery fast in this mode.. so a battery charger may be needed to keep the car going long enough while you do all this.
Then pump the brake pedal hold it.. and open one of the front bleed ports. Repeat until no air comes out. Do the same for the other side on the front. Also make sure to keep the reservoir full while you do all this.
The rears are controlled by the car. Put those relays back in. You might be able to fake it into bleeding , by putting car into Ready mode.. put foot on brake pedal and crack the bleeder for short time. It should run the abs pump trying to raise the pressure. But only do it for a second or so at a time.. or the car will go into some error mode.. and you will have to shut it off and try again. I was able to bleed a car this way to some degree.. but it is NOT the proper procedure and it can be a pain.. and is not consistent in it's working

Also keep in mind any Toyota dealer can bleed the brakes.. I think they charged me $85 last time... Before I had access to Techstream.

Good luck

And please take all this as advice not instructions I take no responsibility for anything you may mess up or damage in the process or any damage to anyone else in a crash.
. be careful it's the brakes and you need them to safely drive.

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Safest bet would be to have a dealership service department do the swap.

 

Bleeding after the actuator installation is more involved than simply bleeding the lines to the wheel cylinders. I know of no way to do it without Techstream. It should not be skipped.

What could happen? Well, air in the brake system is compressible. Instead of transmitting brake force from the controls to the wheels, it will just squish. In older cars, this would mean (depending on the amount of air) your pedal is spongy and pushes nearly to the floor and the car stops poorly, or the pedal goes all the way to the floor and the car doesn't stop.

In a Prius, the normal operation of the brake system can conceal a certain amount of air in the system. The pressure is coming from an accumulator filled with pressurized fluid from a pump, so when the control goes to apply the brakes, if the wheel pressure doesn't reach target when expected because some air is squishing, the valve just stays open a moment longer, more pressurized fluid flows, and the brakes get applied. You might not notice the brakes feeling different, and unless the problem is severe enough to set a code, and you don't hear strange squishy or farty noises when applying the brakes, you might be unaware there's a problem.

But what happens if then, for any reason (maybe even the ECU detecting pressure anomalies), the brake system goes into fail-safe mode? That reduces it to, pretty much, an old-fashioned hydraulic brake system, and just like an old-fashioned system, if there's enough air in the wrong place, the pedal may go to the floor and not stop the car.

 

You must bleed the brakes.. my suggestions we're just for you to try that.. it might work.
Safest thing. Is to just tow the car to Toyota after the abs pump has been switched.. and just tell them you need the brakes bled.
Changing the abs pump is not that hard.. took me 5 hours.. only following YouTube videos and common sense.
It was a pain in the butt. But not that difficult.


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I’m guessing you are not changing the pump yourself? Could you get your own copy of Techstream going and turn on the brake bleed feature for the mechanic? There are write ups on how to do it here and you would save the towing and dealer charges.

 

Question: wha thappens if I change the brakes but did not follow the techstream or without techstrem procedure for bleeding the brakes after changing and bled them normally even though I did not lose any liquid, would this cause codes to come on and make the farting noise that the actuator makes when it's supposed to be damaged? If so could this be corrected by just bleeding the brakes? Incidentally I change the brakes over a year-and-a-half ago and the car has been running fine since and it's just now that the actuator has been giving noises after we shipped from a very warm climate in San Juan Puerto Rico to a cold climate in Harrisburg Pennsylvania. See my other thread about the abs brake actuator.

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You don't have to bleed the brakes after just changing the pads or rotors. But when you change the ABS pump you're opening up the hydraulic system, which then requires you to bleed the entire system.

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Find another Mechanic that can do the job correctly...not just R&R.

 

Thank you that is what I thought.

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Yes this. He should not be bidding for the job if he's going to half-bake it. It's brakes, it's vitally important, and he should be professional enough to show restraint.