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Feels like bump start when ice kicks in

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Care, Maintenance & Troubleshooting' started by Tiff, Jan 19, 2019.

  1. Tiff

    Tiff Junior Member

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    Hi all
    Gen 3 prius 2010 started with car conking out on dual carriage way no pre warnings or problems apart from clatter/rattle at 30mph or so every now and then. So check hybrid system with all yellow warnings on dash.Had Torque lite app on mobile which at the showed as throttle motor fault. Changed the throttle body been fine for a while now.

    Now check hybrid system light again this time Torque lite wont show codes but will clear them and the cars fine.
    So I invested in Tech Stream and a vci cable. I found Tech Stream extremely slow and basic to be honest.
    With Techstream I managed to pull code p080a after waiting 2 weeks for light yo come on. Now after clearing code all is well again except although running ok has started this clatter/rattle again which was solved by me cleaning the intake manifold/egr and pipe before but it has now returned. Alongside with this the strangest thing of all intermittently when pulling away or at low speeds when the engine should kick in the car bucks and dips at the front and then starts almost like being push started.
    So it resists starting itself but feels it starts due to motion.

    Any ideas. It has 225k and no ither faults
     
  2. Tiff

    Tiff Junior Member

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    I feel I should add as well that I have noticed for example when im just sitting in Park the display will show sometimes engine charging thr battery or inverter and sometimes nothings doing anything. So where the engine should have switched of it just stays on doing nothing. Also when engine should switch off it sort of stalls and starts again the tried again and keeps not switching off
     
  3. tankyuong

    tankyuong Senior Member

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    You need to clean the egr cooler and intake manifold
     
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  4. Tiff

    Tiff Junior Member

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    Hi
    Thanks for your reply.
    I have cleaned them 3 months ago. I cleaned the intake again 3 eeeks ago when doing throttle body. Cleaned all sensors as well
     
  5. Grit

    Grit Senior Member

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    P080A- troubleshoot hybrid battery. Hope that it's just copper buss bars that needs deoxidizing. This is the toughest place any prius owner wants to be in.

    Techstream V12 installed on Win10 is slow as V10 on XP, running with 4GBs of RAM for those computer nerds.
     
    #5 Grit, Jan 19, 2019
    Last edited: Jan 19, 2019
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  6. Tiff

    Tiff Junior Member

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    Ok so took egr cooler and pipe off again yesterday. Cleaned the whole lot out.there has been an improvement and a whole lot quiter for sure but let me do a few more miles. I have noticed smell of fumes with heating on as i was trying to bleed coolant system and can still smell it now but only when standstill.

    Also does anyone know what the official bleed procedure is with a bleed valve. I just normally ignore the valve and leave expansion tank cap off until its circulating
     
  7. Tiff

    Tiff Junior Member

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    Ok so I tool off the whole intake and egr system out again yesterday as i missed the egr cooler gasket. Now this time i really cleaned everything out good and proper. Egr was a bit sticky but now all good.
    But my intermittent problem of bump start feeling is still there.
    Every now and then the charging cycle is playing up wherby display says engine and inverter isnt doing anything and battery not charging. While driving along evrrytime ice needs to kick in it feels like a bump start with a knackered battery where the car just bucks and then starts.

    Getting really confused now
     
  8. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    You're referring to the air bleed valve on the engine coolant circuit. Attached* has some info. Note: that valve was discontinued, at least in North American Prius, commencing in 2012 model year. Not sure why.

    There's also hands-on video coolant changes videos by @NutzAboutBolts here:

    Nutz About Bolts Prius Maintenance Videos | PriusChat

    (His is 2012 model year, and doesn't have the bleed valve.)

    * Attached inverter coolant change as well, just in case it's of interest.

    Could that be P0A80? Just googling, that indicates a problem with the hybrid battery.
     
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  9. JC91006

    JC91006 Senior Member

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    When did you do the following maintenance:

    1. Change spark plugs
    2. Replace intake manifold gasket
    3. Change coolant
    4. Clean EGR System (I know you did this, how did you clean the cooler and pipe?)

    Some people have reported misfire/rough starts on the ICE when the SOC is low on the battery. Is this the time you are experiencing the buckling rough feeling?
     
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  10. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    Does it use oil, and how much, what rate?

    Does the engine coolant level stay pretty steady?
     
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  11. Tiff

    Tiff Junior Member

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    Hi yes I have the valve. Just wondering i normally do what nutzandboltz does and do it from radiator cap.
     
  12. Tiff

    Tiff Junior Member

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    Hi
    Changed spark plugs 10,000 miles ago with genuine upgraded plugs.

    I didnt change gasket as i used a thin bead of silicone underneath the gasket.

    Coolant changed about 20,000 miles ago.

    Egr, egr pipe, intake manifold all cleaned again 2 days ago. On the egr pipework i use oven cleaner foam the egr cleaner spray. Cleaning thouroghly the insides was getting good movement from egr.

    Intake manifold with intake cleaner followed by a high pressure jet wash making sure all 4 ports were clear when jet washibg from side port. Same with egr cooler.

    Now I have read soo many post this morning so I diverted my attention to coils as someone mentioned when you take off cowl under wipers it breaks a seal that leaks onto coil but my coils were bone dry. Either will check over weekend.

    Now then other theory was 12v battery And related to heating fan.
    I always drive with at least 1 bar or fan speed 1 to keep windows clear and i do use the heating a lot. Now for the last hour or so i switched fans to off and it has improved slightly.
    But yes it does do it when traction battery gets to 2 bars charges then display stops showing charging state or engine state and then roughs rough
     
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  13. Tiff

    Tiff Junior Member

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    Hi yes
    It was using oil. I have changed to 5w30 now noy 0w20 anymore. Slight difference but not massive. I will be addibg an oil catch can soon.

    No coolant loss at all
     
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  14. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    As far as I know, the only function of the air bleed valve is: you leave it open when refilling the system with coolant after a drain, to get air out as the coolant goes in. I've yet to do a coolant change on our 2010, but on past vehicles I've noticed: you can feel a gush of air as you're pouring in coolant in, at the radiator neck. You'd basically pour in coolant with the bleed valve open, and once coolant started coming out of the bleed valve, then you'd shut it.

    Now third gen Prius, has no filler neck on the radiator, and from 2012 onward they omitted the bleed valve, so I'm not sure why. Maybe not as necessary??
     
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  15. JC91006

    JC91006 Senior Member

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    I didn't even know there was a bleed valve in the 2010. I changed my coolant recently and just filled it. Blasted the heat afterwards. Now after 1 month of driving, the coolant level dropped maybe 8oz. I'll add to it and that should be it.
     
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  16. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    Honda's, the drill was always:

    1. Fill at radiator with air-bleed valve open.
    2. Shut valve once coolant start coming out in steady flow, and continue filling, till fluid's up to neck.
    3. Refill/install overflow reservoir.
    4. Start car with radiator cap off, with cabin heat temperature set to high, and let it run till radiator fans cycle on/off twice.

    Doing number four takes maybe 15~20 minutes, and as it's going you see the coolant in the rad neck start to steam, and occasional belches and mild over-flows, then drops. I would always stand right there, with a baster and a small cup of some sort. As the level rises I'd baste it out before it overflows, then if it dropped I'd pour it back in.

    After the fan shuts off for the second time, it's done, cap on the radiator, and just check overflow bottle level in a few days.

    The Prius I've yet to do, it's be the 10 year mark for me, well before miles. No radiator cap, but I've got the Repair Manual Instruction nutzaboutbolts' videos.
     
    #16 Mendel Leisk, Jan 25, 2019
    Last edited: Jan 25, 2019
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  17. Tiff

    Tiff Junior Member

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    As long as you are not hearing a gush of fluid behind glovebox on startup you should be ok. But otherwise get front of car high up with expansion cap off heating to hi and fan speed 1 or 2. It takes at least 30 mins current UK temperatures (very unlikely to get fan to kick in but once it has circulated a couple of times your done
     
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  18. Tiff

    Tiff Junior Member

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    When i tried to bleed from valve i git a few drops out then several drops every couple of minutes then nothing so i closed it and done it from expansion tank
     
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  19. Tiff

    Tiff Junior Member

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    Ok guys
    So went to bed with the relief that its either the 12v battery or 1 of the coils.
    So armed with my voltmeter expecting to find a dead battery i see 12.55v at the battery terminals first thing in the morning.

    So i open the coils to find them all equally with a spot of rust/factory grease maybe but only on surface half way down. Doesnt seem to be enough to cause upset..

    So what am i missing
     
  20. Raytheeagle

    Raytheeagle Senior Member

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    Are there codes or dash lights?

    While Techstream might be “basic”, it will be better than any other scanning device out there;).

    Since you’ve been touching a lot of components, is everything back together and tight? As you’ve learned once already, even missing a gasket is critical, and if something isn’t seated well, problems arise:(.

    If you got the P0A80, check the block voltages. If they are all stable with no code, as was mentioned above a typical cause is corrosion or the electrolyte leaking out:cool:.

    I’d get “basic” Techstream out and start investigating (y).
     
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