2006 Prius help on HV problems

This might be helpful.
Gen II Prius Individual Battery Module Replacement | PriusChat
A hobby charger, build a load tester and a fan would get you going.

 

It would cost more of any mechanic's time to "fix" that then what a person who wants a junkyard repair would be willing to spend if I had to guess. There's a lot of corrosion and it has definitely been opened before or stored in a dustbowl or something. What do the serial numbers ontop look like? Any missing in the series?

Sometimes the cheap comes out expensive, and at this point I'd as a mechanic say the 3rd party part is faulty. That's the gamble you play when you buy salvage parts, and this customer lost. Bring me a new battery, or another junk battery but this one is done. The customer can take it home and clean it, balance it, baby it and bring it back if they want. But paying you $$$/hr to do it is foolish on such a bad donor battery to begin with.

 

From the 2nd image posted, it appears a sensing wire (module 5) could fairly corroded, among other things. You could try cleaning up that harness or just swap it out, and see if that clears the DTC. Be sure to inspect all of the connectors as well.

Below is the workup for P3030 :

https://share.qclt.com/%E4%B8%B0%E7%94%B0%E6%99%AE%E7%91%9E%E6%96%AF%E5%8E%9F%E5%8E%82%E8%8B%B1%E6%96%87%E6%89%8B%E5%86%8Cpdf%E6%A0%BC%E5%BC%8F/Prius%20Service%20Manuals%202004/%E4%BF%AE%E7%90%86%E6%89%8B%E5%86%8C/04pruisr/05/20zmw/cip3030b.pdf

Are you using techstream or something else?

 

Don't ignore the P0301 as that's a misfire on cylinder 1. That could also easily explain some of the inconsistent engine performance. Yes, I recognize the HV battery is done. A significantly misfiring cylinder will cause the check engine light to flash. Probably needs new plugs.

 

Also, don't fall for the voltages being the same, therefore being ok. Most likely, every one of those modules, even ones with identical voltages, have extremely varying levels of charge and capacity. I have a battery on shop table right now going through testing. I installed one of my TMR-JWAP batteries into a forum members car last Saturday. It's his old battery being tested right now. It had previously been repaired TWICE by one of the "I'll come to your house and fix your HV battery" mobile repair people. Obviously they do no real testing and just swap out any "obviously" failed module. There had been 3 modules replaced. The battery coded out on an original module failing, but testing shows two of the three 'new' modules are junk. That repair method is guaranteed to leave you broken again very soon. I'll put the test data on an excel sheet this evening after I finish my taxes and post it here.

 

Anyway, I hate doing my taxes so I decided to just do this instead. The first column was the voltage measured at each module prior to starting my testing. The second column is the initial discharge of each module. I do this so I can see exactly how much energy each module had in it in the 'as removed from the car' condition. Each column after that is the discharge following a charge cycle. I have (10) 4 channel chargers, so I can do up to 40 modules at a time if needed. I keep the battery pack exactly as it was when removed from the car. The top row is the module closest to the ecu (block 14). You can clearly see the initial voltages are not always consistent with the energy contained in the module. Columns 1-6 are mAh. A brand new module is rated for 6500 mAh capacity, but they usually test higher. Your results may vary, but this is my methodology. You can also see capacity getting better after each cycle.

 

Hi can you send me that spreadsheet I can't open it ,
Also how can you tell what is the capacity amp hours and resistance of a module ?

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Whatever your hourly rate is times the number of hours you worked on it? Plus parts of course. Not your fault someone went cheap

 

Exactly. This is the "labour" section of "parts and labour". Depending on what your hourly rate is, it may be cheaper to buy a whole set of used (but known good condition) bus bars and wiring harness of of eBay.

 

Then it sounds like scavenging the mechanicals from bad packs would be cheaper and easier than cleaning these. Especially since the condition of the pack itself is in question. If it cleans up and works well, then you can put your corroded parts on a shelf and clean them next time you're bored.