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Prius Gen 3 Major Maintenance: EGR, manifold, spark plugs, Oil Catch Can

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Care, Maintenance & Troubleshooting' started by wvs2003, Jan 21, 2019.

  1. wvs2003

    wvs2003 Junior Member

    Joined:
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    Vehicle:
    2013 Prius
    Model:
    Three
    Hi Yall,

    Finally did a major maintenance on my 2013 Prius at about 113,000 miles and wanted to report in my experience. And big thank you to the prius owners on this site with their contributions of tips, tutorials, videos, and pictures.

    Big Thank You's to:
    • NutzAboutBolts
    • danlatu
    • Mendel Leisk
    • 1A Auto Parts
    • Jeff Honeywell

    Background:
    Bought prius used at 106,000 miles in 2019 September. Prius only had one previous owner, who followed the regular maintenance and oil change schedule.

    Goal:
    • Complete maintenance in 2-day span 1/19-1/20/2019
    • Clean EGR circuit (EGR pipe, valve, cooler)
      • Due to short timing, I decided to replace with new EGR valve and cooler
    • Clean air intake manifold
    • Clean throttle body
    • Replace PCV valve
    • Clean MAP and MAF sensor
    • Install Oil Catch Can
    • Change spark plugs
    New Parts Cost: (pruchased online though McGeorge Toyota)
    • EGR Valve (#25620-37120): 219.14 (msrp:332.89)
    • EGR Cooler(#25601-37010): 248.11 (msrp: 376.88)
    • Gasket between EGR pipe and valve (#25634-37030): 2.58 (msrp: 3.71)
    • Gasket between EGR valve and cooler (#25627-37010): 2.61 (msrp: 3.74)
    • Gasket at EGR cooler intake (#25685-37010): 2.54 (msrp: 3.65)
    • Gasket air intake manifold (#17177-0T020): 10.93 (msrp: 16.17)
    • Gasket between EGR pipe and air intake manifold (#25628-28010): 2.04 (msrp: 2.93)
    • PCV Valve (#12204-37010): 4.52 (msrp: 6.48)
    • PCV hose (#12261-37060): 8.58 (msrp: 12.69)
    • Spark plug x4: 35.64 (msrp: 52.80)
    • Shipping: 21.41
    • Total: 558.10
    Other parts:
    • Ruien Oil Catch Can 400 mL: 25.50
    • 3/8-inch fuel 3-feet x2: 11.94
    • 3/8-inch ID Brass Hose Barb Splicer: 4.26
    • 5/8-inch hose clamp x5: 5.00
    • o-ring 5/16" OD x 3/16" OD x 1/16" 6-pack: 2.48 (for OCC's dipstick)
    • Total: 49.18
    The experience:
    • Total time: 16 hours
    • ~Tip 1: have a system to keep your parts, bolts, nuts, etc organized. I keep organized by separating between major tasks
    • Tip 1 pic: 20190120_140537.jpg
    1. Remove Top and Bottom Cowl
      • Refer to:
    2. Removed Air Filtration Set
      • Refer to:
    3. Removed EGR Pipe
      • *Gasket Warning
      • Used 1x Brakleen non-chlorinated can for easy cleaning
      • Pic Below: Dirty EGR pipe
      • 20190119_111501.jpg 20190119_111520.jpg
      • Refer to:
    4. Removed Air Intake Manifold
      • Used 3x Brakleen non-chloirinated can for cleaning
      • Pic below: Dirty Manifold
      • Driver side: 20190119_124130.jpg
      • 2nd from driver side: 20190119_124149.jpg
      • 2nd from passenger side: 20190119_124152.jpg
      • Passenger side: 20190119_124157.jpg
      • Refer to:
    5. View of engine
      • Used 1x Brakleen non-cholorinated for cleaning engine bay openings
      • Pic Below: Dirty engine
      • 20190119_122822.jpg
      • Clean engine:
      • Driver side: 20190119_123202.jpg
      • 2nd from driver side: 20190119_123211.jpg
      • 2nd from passenger side: 20190119_123218.jpg
      • Passenger side: 20190119_123227.jpg
      • Refer to:
    6. Separating Throttle Body from Air Intake Manifold
      • Used CRC throttle body & air intake cleaner for Throttle Body
      • 20190118_222249.jpg
      • Pic below: opening throttle body to see dirty oil/junk in air intake manifold
      • 20190119_112156.jpg 20190119_112222.jpg 20190119_114640.jpg 20190119_114709.jpg
      • Refer to:
    7. Separate MAP sensor from Air intake Manifold
      • Used CRC Mass air flow sensor cleaner for MAP sensor
      • 20190118_222249.jpg
      • refer to:
    8. Remove EGR valve/cooler combo
      • *This is tough. Also installing it back on is tough
      • *Gasket Warning: gasket in the back can easily be dropped when taking out the EGR valve/cooler
      • ~Tip 2: There's a 12mm bolt at the EGR's bottom bracket that is tough to get to. Get some sort of socket combination that gives you 3-inch clear space.
      • Pic for Tip 2: 20190120_123519.jpg
      • Pic below: Dirty EGR valve and cooler
      • 20190119_154502.jpg 20190119_154509.jpg 20190119_154700.jpg 20190119_154722.jpg 20190119_154838.jpg 20190119_154858.jpg 20190119_154934.jpg 20190119_155407.jpg 20190119_155445.jpg 20190119_155600.jpg
      • Refer to:
    9. Remove PCV Hose
      • 20190119_163014 - Copy.jpg
      • refer to:
    10. Remove and Install new PCV valve
      • need 22mm socket to remove pcv valve
      • I did not use any thread locker (e.g. loctite blue 243 or red 271)
      • 20190119_163531.jpg 20190119_165115.jpg 20190119_165128.jpg 20190119_165427.jpg
      • refer to:
    11. Assemble Oil Catch Can
    12. Cleaning:
      • Clean engine bay intake: Used 1x Brakleen non-chlorinated. did not spray into the engine bay intake. sprayed onto blue shop disposal towel and then wiped/rubbed away grime
      • Clean air intake manifold: Used 3x Brakleen non-chlorinated
        • Don't forget to clean the small hole in each manifold opening
        • 20190119_124149 - Copy.jpg
      • Clean throttle body: Used throttle body cleaner
      • Clean MAP sensor (on air intake manifold near throttle body location): Used MAF cleaner. Only sprayed directly
      • Clean MAF sensor (in air filtration set): used MAF cleaner. Only sprayed directly
      • Clean EGR pipe (the pipe between air intake manifold and EGR valve): used 1x Brakleen non-chlorinated
      • replace old gaskets with new gaskets
    13. Assemble new EGR valve and new EGR cooler together:
      • refer to:
    14. Install new EGR combo:
      • *This will be tough
      • ~Tip 2: There's a 12mm bolt at the EGR's bottom bracket that is tough to get to. Get some sort of socket combination that gives you 3-inch clear space.
      • Pic for Tip 2: 20190120_123519.jpg
    15. Install OCC
      • attach OCC's "In" fuel line end to PCV
      • After air intake manifold is tightened, then attach OCC's "Out" fuel line end to air intake manifold
      • Run OCC fuel line of your choosing
      • 20190120_142640.jpg
    16. Assemble throttle body and MAP sensor on air intake manifold
      • refer to:

    17. Place air intake manifold on the engine's 2 stud bolts
      • I suggest not tightening nuts/bolts for air intake before EGR pipe
    18. Install EGR pipe in between EGR valve and air intake manifold
      • refer to:
    19. Install and tighten up bolts for intake manifold
      • refer to:
    20. install OCC "Out" fuel line ned to air intake manifold
    21. install air filtration set
    22. Started up car
      • Since I lost coolant when taking apart air intake manifold and EGR valve/cooler, I let car startup and engine warmup
      • I got warning light, probably to the air in coolant system
      • I opened the cap of the coolant reservoir (the reservoir on the passenger side)
      • I also turned up high heat (no AC) in car
      • Warning light went away
      • Good to go! Though, I will have to top off the coolant later.
      • 20190120_162708.jpg 20190120_162717.jpg
      • refer to:
    23. Change out spark plugs
      • I did not use anti-seize for the spark plugs
      • I did use dielectric silicon paste for the bottom of ignition coils
      • Driver side: 20190120_172905.jpg
      • 2nd from driver side: 20190120_172929.jpg
      • 2nd from passenger side: 20190120_172959.jpg
      • Passenger side: 20190120_173045.jpg
      • 20190120_172707.jpg 20190120_172824.jpg 20190120_174123.jpg 20190120_174132.jpg
      • refer to:

    24. Started up car
      • Had engine warning light show up, but then it disappeared
    25. installed bottom and top cowl
    26. Test Drive! Drove car around the neighborhood and highway. Everything seems to be good!
    Results:
    • So far, prius drives smoother
    • Will update on whether gas mileage improves
    Helpful Documents:
    Tips:
    • ~Tip 1: have a system to keep your parts, bolts, nuts, etc organized. I keep organized by separating between major tasks
    • Tip 1 pic: 20190120_140537.jpg
    • ~Tip 2: There's a 12mm bolt at the EGR's bottom bracket that is tough to get to. Get some sort of socket combination that gives you 3-inch clear space.
    • Pic for Tip 2: 20190120_123519.jpg
    Hope this helps!
     

    Attached Files:

  2. ThebigK

    ThebigK Junior Member

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    Thanks for the incredibly detailed post, I will be looking to do the same once I buy a 3rd gen, will probably flush transmission fluid too.
     
  3. Gshadow325

    Gshadow325 Junior Member

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  4. Jeffrey Mason

    Jeffrey Mason New Member

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    Three
    This is awesome, I have to do the same on my 2012 prius with 166k.

    After looking at all the post on here I'm afraid of how the egr valve,cooler, and intake will look like on my car which has never been cleaned.

    Thanks for this post, it will help me out a lot with servicing my prius.
     
  5. Toddwilks

    Toddwilks Active Member

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    Source for the OCC mount?


    iPhone ?
     
    Raytheeagle likes this.
  6. Raytheeagle

    Raytheeagle Senior Member

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    He’s got a guy that makes them using the pattern from @danlatu ;).

    If you’re going to place it behind the drivers headlight, the mount is the way to go(y).
     
  7. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    You can pioneer too: look for space (there certainly aren't many), consider hose routing, look for unused weld nuts and/or studs, or piggyback on existing brackets.

    Check out brackets, angles, what have you, at hardware stores.

    Consider also: an up top install is much more obvious, may cause you to fail a smog inspection. It's unfair, but how it is.
     
    RMB likes this.
  8. wvs2003

    wvs2003 Junior Member

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    Check out thingverse and type in search "Prius Oil Catch Can Bracket"
    Prius Oil Catch Can Bracket by Danlatu - Thingiverse
    props to @danlatu for this design.

    I have to say, maybe due to my family's 3d printer or plastic material, the bracket might've shrunk due to cooling of plastic during printing.
     
    Raytheeagle likes this.
  9. Gshadow325

    Gshadow325 Junior Member

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    what parts did you need for the OCC? i want to order everything for my lexus and get it done
     
  10. Toddwilks

    Toddwilks Active Member

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    Yes I just placed an order for the OCC so I would like to get a mount as well and put it in the same place.


    iPad ?
     
    Gshadow325 likes this.
  11. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    Assuming you're going to cut the existing hose running between PCV valve and intake manifold:

    Get sufficient 3/8" Inside Diameter Fuel line, grade SAE 30R7 is good, 30R6 also fine I think. It's not expensive, so get lots, in case you make mistakes.

    Two 3/8" hose barb or PEX splice (to splice into the cut OEM hose). Hose barb is VERY unforgiving:eek:nce you've pushed hose on it does not want to pull off. As long as you're also clamping, I would recommend to blunt the sharp barb edges. I found mounting the barb in a drill press and using a file a good way to do this. PEX splice are superior in this regard, but I couldn't find them.

    Hose clamps. The Stainless Steel screw type are fine, or you can get kosher automotive hose clamps, for a cleaner look. You'll probably need two per splice, two at the oil catch can, so total of 6. You can use the OEM clamps at the original connections of OEM hose.

    You also need mounting harware obviously, but that's a whole other topic.
     
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  12. Gshadow325

    Gshadow325 Junior Member

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    I don't get where to get this stuff. Did you order it online? Walk into a Auto zone for this stuff?

    ONEPLUS A6013 ?
     
  13. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    The fuel line you can find at most automotive retailers. The rest, most any hardware store, home depot for example.
     
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  14. casi000

    casi000 New Member

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    Thx for the helpful info. Did pretty much all the same to my 2012 prius (minus the occ). Was starting to get the shutter misfire prior. Had some wild knocking on first start but I think it was burning all the carb cleaner out. After that all seemed okay, though 50 mi in mileage is not good - ~35 or so. Wondering if the cleaner fouled out the plugs or something. Planning on swapping them out once I run through a can of Seafoam. No CELs though and it's running smoothly.
     
  15. Toddwilks

    Toddwilks Active Member

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    Would egr and egr cooler cleaning contribute to better mpg?


    iPhone ?
     
  16. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    I don't think so; it's more about engine health?
     
  17. Threej

    Threej Member

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    I got a 5% summer mpg improvement after cleaning out my EGR circuit. The biggest noticeable improvement, however, was how much smoother and quieter the engine got performing under load, such as going up a steep hill.
     
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  18. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    To be fair, I got on EGR cleaning really early.
     
  19. tweedle99

    tweedle99 Member

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    same here. 3-4 mpg bump
     
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  20. Toddwilks

    Toddwilks Active Member

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    Thanks. I took the same path as the OP and just ordered a new egr cooler and pipe.


    iPhone ?