Another P0A80 Question

1. As far as Toyota goes, yes it does.
2. NO. Don't use any re-whatever services. You sound like you have the ability to do it yourself and that way you can control the quality of the repair. Recognise, though, that module replacement is only a short term band-aid. The only reliable and long term replacement is new modules, which is the only repair Toyota will do in these circumstances for that very reason.
3. newpriusbatteries.com or Toyota. If considering Toyota, shop around and try and get your local or preferred dealer to price match. The price your dealer buys the battery is $1625 and the recommended retail is $1950. You work out whether $2500 is a good price. The book labor is something like 4 hours so $550/4 = $137.50 per hour.
4. Yes, and another good app is Hybrid Assistant.

 

There must be a gazillion posts here with sob stories from people who bought rebuilt batteries. It takes a lot fo TLC to make one anything like reliable.

Replacing the whole battery is not hard to do. There are lots of YouTube videos. But there is a difference in warranty between a dealer installed battery and a user installed one. Dealer is 3 years and diy is 1 year unless something has changed.

 

Depending on the mileage of your car, a low mileage car that you intend to keep for a few more years should have a NEW battery installed.

If the car is high mileage and you don't want to spend much money on it, then option number 4 is the way to go

 

Here you go

Battery - 2004-2009 Toyota Prius (G9510-47031) | Tracy Toyota

The procedure in the video is slightly different than what you would do but it gives you an idea of what would need to do. You get a new battery bottom and don’t have to remove any batteries.
I’m sure the write up from the manual is somewhere on this website.

 

how many miles on her?

 

And what year?

 

sounds like you have it under control. with your skills, i'd go the full balancing route for some decent reliability

 

See the link in my signature to see how I dealt with the same thing a couple of years ago with my low mileage gen2. One big thing that is different since then is there is now a new, aftermarket battery option for $1600.

GOOD LUCK!

 

Find me a few posts with low opinion? That's the most important part of reconditioning a module

 

To build on the post above, those that have a low opinion don’t understand the process.

Battery maintenance extends the life of the battery. In order to maintain it, it has to be cycled. If you do a simple module swap and no maintenance, you’ll not get a sustained repair. Which then shapes another opinion of the hv battery .

Here’s my thread on the topic:

2010 Prius II HV Battery Reconditioning

Good luck and keep us posted .

 

It would be helpful if you had some tools to work with the battery.

- a whole-battery charger
- a whole-battery discharger
- a single module charger
- a single module discharger
- a single module load tester
- Techstream software to more accurately diagnose errors
- laptop to run Techstream on
- minivci cable to connect car to Techstream laptop

- an inch pound torque wrench to PROPERLY tighten the fasteners. No it is not ok to just guess as the tightness.

Whatever module you introduce bring it up to similar voltage as the rest of the pack.

Each time you replace a module it would be best to go through a series of charge/discharges cycles of the pack to balance things out.

Each time you put in a module you are introducing more variability to the pack. The car will not like that. So that's why you may need to periodically rebalance the pack with your whole battery charger and discharger.

All this said, being lazy and just slapping in a module without doing anything else may work. Or it may not. You labor and time are free. So if you have lots of free time who cares how many times you have to go in there. And if you can afford it be possibly being unreliable, or don't mind having to go back in there in a short time, then you can skip doing anything more. Slap it in and go.

I don'thave the luxury of doing this for customers because my time is not free. Plus I seem to have a shortage of it. And most customers would be pretty agnry with me if they kept having to come back for me to replace another module...and another module...and another.

But if it is fun for you and the downsides offset the cost, then go for it. You'll learn a lot.

If you need any module (and so e advice to go with them) feel free to call me. My info is in my signature and profile.

 

We're you able to use an inch-pound torque wrench to properly tighten the connections?

Or did you end up just guessing and tightening them to what feels about right?

 

The module studs and nuts are M5 with a 0.8 pitch. Most charts you'll find list the standard recommended torque anywhere from 6nm to 9 nm depending on the grade of steel. (53.1 inch-pounds to 79.6 inch pounds)

The Toyota procedure for the Gen 1 batteries specified 48 inch pounds if I remember correctly. The most common recommendation on PC has been to go with 48 inch-pounds.

My personal experiments with torquing the nuts to the studs with the copper bus bars in place have shown 60 works extremely well. This is merely by inspecting the surface contact area between the nut, terminal and copper. I used freshly media blasted copper busbars, installed them on modules and started torquing 4@45, 4@ 50, 4 @55 etc etc. 60 inch pounds was pretty much where the contact patch looked best and anything higher didn't make a difference. I also found that, with no busbar in place, it was somewhere around 110 inch pounds that the module terminal would twist and break internally., so 60 has quite a bit of safety margin.

Your results may differ........

and a great thing about 60 inch pounds is that American Valve actually makes a torque limiting driver calibrated at 60 inch pounds. (for 8mm hex) Looks like a "T" handle and works awesome. It's a bit pricey at about $60, but very convenient. I use that and a torque wrench, so they frequently get checked against each other.

 

It would be safe to use 48 (or 60 imho) for any fastener on the HV battery that uses an 8mm hex head.

INCH pounds.....heh heh