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Violent engine shaking at startup. Miss fire codes all cylinders

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Care, Maintenance & Troubleshooting' started by rjp123, Apr 4, 2019.

  1. rjp123

    rjp123 Member

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    Update: Looking through sparkplug holes with borescope I can see a pool of red liquid on top of piston in Cyl 2. Proceeding with head removal.
     
  2. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    Dang.

    Post pictures/observations as you go, it helps everyone.
     
    #22 Mendel Leisk, Apr 6, 2019
    Last edited: Apr 6, 2019
  3. The Critic

    The Critic Resident Critic

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    Disconnect the cat from the exhaust manifold. Leave the manifold connected to the cylinder head. You’ll see why.
     
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  4. rjp123

    rjp123 Member

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    Why, are the manifold nuts tough to get off? The darn EGR assembly is a real pain. Doesn't look like they took it off in the video but it sure seems to be in the way. Has long studs into head, and extremely rusted exhaust bolts. Soooo many hoses and electrical connectors on this motor. Going smoothly though. Pulling timing cover tomorrow.
     
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  5. The Critic

    The Critic Resident Critic

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    The block has dowel pins which have to be lined up with the cylinder head. It is easier to line up the dowel pins without having to worry about lining up the exhaust manifold as well. The connection on the exhaust manifold to the catalytic converter uses no studs.
     
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  6. rjp123

    rjp123 Member

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    Oh, got it. I'll keep that in mind. Thanks.

    What did you do with the EGR assembly (incl cooler)? Did you remove it from car? I was hoping to be able to leave the exhaust connected to it.
     
  7. cnc97

    cnc97 Senior Member

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    Reading posts like this one, talking about rusted nuts and such, makes me glad my Prius was a FL car before I got it. LoL
     
  8. rjp123

    rjp123 Member

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    Okay, a few pics...
    Here is how we start day two.
    [​IMG]
    Cams lined up and locked as shown in the amazingly helpful video
    [​IMG]

    Timing cover comes out. Not the easiest thing in the world, but not too bad.
    [​IMG]

    Timing chain
    [​IMG]

    Cam holder thingy out ...
    [​IMG]
     
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  9. rjp123

    rjp123 Member

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    Bane of my existence here

    [​IMG]
     
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  10. Raytheeagle

    Raytheeagle Senior Member

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    Don’t forget to clean that while you have it out(y).
     
  11. The Critic

    The Critic Resident Critic

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    Hmm, you are not quite at TDC. If the crankshaft pulley is lined up with the “0” mark on the timing cover, the orange link on the intake cam gear should be closer to 1 or 2 o’clock and the exhaust cam gear should be at 12 o’clock. Not a big deal right now, but when you go to reassemble, having #1 at TDC is ideal.

    Good job so far.

    IMG_4728.jpg
     
    #31 The Critic, Apr 7, 2019
    Last edited: Apr 7, 2019
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  12. cnc97

    cnc97 Senior Member

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    I didn’t notice that until you brought it up, but true. When I was assembling mine, I used the wrench flats to turn the cams and hold them while hanging the chain.

    To the OP, looking good and keep up the good work though. You will have it back together before you know it.
     
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  13. MikeNinMass

    MikeNinMass Junior Member

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    Aren't you planning to clean out the whole EGR system including the cooler (and install an oil catch can) while you have everything apart?

    Sorry to hear my suspicion about the head gasket was right.

    How do you measure flatness of the block where it mates with the head? Thought I'd ask while you're doing it. I'm hoping I won't need to, so haven't looked at all the videos to see if that is explained. I have my loaner borescope ready, but I think I'll get all the parts and supplies for the whole EGR system cleaning and OCC installation and hit it all at once while the wiper cowl and intake manifold are out.

    Thanks for documenting your procedure!
     
  14. rjp123

    rjp123 Member

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    The cams are locked as in the video and cannot turn, and the crank is not moving. As long as all three shafts stay at the same positions and all three painted links on the timing chain match their respective marks as they did when I took it off, how can anything be out of alignment?
     
  15. rjp123

    rjp123 Member

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    I didn't measure the flatness of the block. I didn't even measure the flatness of the head. To do it right, you should have the head serviced while it is off. But since this car has 207K miles on it I figured it either runs or it goes to the junkyard when I'm done. So it is getting the budget treatment.

    EDIT: I did measure the head bolts, and they were all easily within spec for reuse btw.
     
  16. rjp123

    rjp123 Member

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    More pics.
    The old... Some coolant still remains in cyl 2. (1 & 2 were missfiring primarily)
    [​IMG]

    Head after a little light cleaning
    [​IMG]

    End of Day 2. Head reinstalled with new gasket.
    [​IMG]
     
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  17. rjp123

    rjp123 Member

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    I plan to take it all apart and clean as in the videos. Though EGR pipe doesn't look so bad honestly for so many miles.
     
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  18. Raytheeagle

    Raytheeagle Senior Member

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    Make sure to get the cooler though;).

    Having it out makes the access extremely easy:).

    Good luck and keep us posted (y).
     
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  19. cnc97

    cnc97 Senior Member

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    Given the close tolerance for piston to valve clearance the only approved location for timing chain installation is with number one at TDC. However, if you are 100% sure none of the shafts have moved at all, after installation of the chain, timing cover and tensioner, it is recommended to rotate the crank by hand at least two full revolutions to insure no interference. I rotated mine until the twin links lined back up on the intake, the single link on the exhaust, and the other link on the crank. Two crank teeth off is all it takes for interference.
     
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  20. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    upload_2019-4-8_7-36-26.png
    See you used that video's trick. (y)