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Transmission Fluid Replacement - DIY or Dealer?

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Care, Maintenance & Troubleshooting' started by PixelRogue, Jun 16, 2019.

  1. PixelRogue

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    Hello everyone,

    I have my 2010 Prius up on ramps having just completed replacement of the engine and battery coolants. Stumbled across something I TOTALLY forgot about - replacing transmission fluid. Undercarriage is already apart, tools already in hand.. just need some fluid and this could be complete in quick order. After watching a few video's, there are a couple of questions...and asking for these questions to be answered by folks who are impartial to the value or need to have dealer service; as folks seem to fall on one side or the other when it comes to dealership service, with strong opinions.

    Fluid Type
    Does the Prius truly need Toyota ATF WS fluid as replacement? Coolant pretty much need to be Toyota OEM LLC, yet oil (traditional or synthetic) does not require Toyota OEM. If it requires Toyota OEM fluid, why?


    10MM Aluminum Gaskets
    How do you know if the 10MM Aluminum Gaskets need to be replaced? If replacing, where can you get them other than the dealer? It is Sunday, Father's Day no less, and I'd love to get this job wrapped up today.


    Level Vehicle
    Videos are recommending the vehicle be level for the replacement (entire car up on stands and jacks.)
    Think the reason for this is to assist w/draining old fluid, and to gauge the fluid level for replacement. I have ramps for the front, no jacks or stands. Here is the thinking of sticking w/ramps. PLEASE chime-in, let me know may logic is flawed...this is obviously my first time through.

    The Prius takes 4 quarts of fluid (regardless of vehicle being level, 4 quarts.) While on ramps, the fluid can be drained. I recognize there might not be a 'full 100% drain,' and I'm ok w/that. Once drained, replace the drain plug, attach the fluid pump to the fill hole and pump in 4 quarts of fluid. Prius is made for 4 quarts...and so long as you do not exceed the 4 quarts you'd be ok (even if you did not get a full drain from being up on a ramp.)

    In theory, the vehicle is pitched backwards...same direction as the plugs...so your fill hole (sounds obscene) may start leaking prematurely when on ramps? I am just guessing here. Keep filling until your 4 quarts are in, then quickly replace the plug. Crazy? Reasonable? Misguided? Consider finding ramps/stands to continue or consider a dealer replacement?

    Is is truly necessary to have the car level when refilling the transmission fluid?
    (vs. tips and tricks to compensate)


    Torque
    I can get access to a wrench w/torque settings if required. These plugs had recommended torque, and I am wondering how specific you need to be.... so maybe hand tighten as far as you can go, then tighten slightly w/a wrench?
     
    #1 PixelRogue, Jun 16, 2019
    Last edited: Jun 16, 2019
  2. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    1) no one knows

    2) most replace them without knowing

    3) sounds misguided, but poly doesn't have to be perfectly level.

    4) having never changed my own, or had it changed by someone else, i feel i am completely impartial.:cool:

    5) all the best!
     
  3. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    The Owner's Manual is pretty emphatic, I would NOT mess around with other fluids.

    Not sure what the diameter is, but I would get the proper washers: this is something you do very infrequently, don't cheap out.


    The reason to have the car level is: that's how you get the fluid level correct when refilling. It does not take exactly 4 quarts, it might be a little less. Basically, you raise and level the car, and add fluid till it starts coming back out. That achieves the correct fluid level. Also, a simple method to get the fluid is with a funnel with a hose extension.


    The correct torque value is 29 ft/lb. I would recommend using torque wrench, get it right. Also, when removing the fill and drain bolts:

    1. Remove fill bolt first, just in case you have problems.
    2. Use a quality, long-handled ratchet wrench or breaker bar, they are on there pretty good.
    3. Both bolts are socket-head cap screw, with a 10 mm hex recess. You'll need an Allen-key style socket; Stanley for one sells a metric set.

    My 2 cents: for today, fugedaboutit. Put the cover back on. Wash all the plastic fasteners out with hot/soapy water, get the grit out, before reinstalling. Taking the cover off becomes a 10 minute job after a while. Get 4 quarts of the proper fluid, and the kosher washers, at a dealership. Get your funnel/hose, long-handle wrench, allen-key socket, torque wrench, safety stands, whatever it it takes to get the car raised and level, safely.
     
    #3 Mendel Leisk, Jun 16, 2019
    Last edited: Jun 16, 2019
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  4. PixelRogue

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    Maple Leaf: Thank you. The questions were more about available time...today is wide open to finish the job, but no dealership open to get the parts.

    Side question. If I drained most/all of the fluid, replaced the drain plug, attach the tube to pump in new fluid - then lower the car off the ramps (while tube is attached...think that would go fine) ... fill when car is level on ground? I am not at the car at present to know how easily I could get to the location to replace the plug once the fluid was back inside.Then put it back up on the ramp to properly set the bolt torque?
     
  5. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    Some people do ramps on the front, then floor jack and safety stands on the rear. Myself I just do safety stands all 'round, do the front first, then the rear. I like these points for the safety stands, as opposed to the proscribed scissor jack locations:

    upload_2019-6-16_11-5-1.png
     
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  6. Raytheeagle

    Raytheeagle Senior Member

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  7. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    Better figure out a way to get the car raised and level. Definitely do not start up the engine with the fill bolt off, and the car going up/down ramps. That's a recipe for disaster, lol.
     
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  8. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    ML? never occurred to me :p
     
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  9. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    Hah, me neither.
     
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  10. Raytheeagle

    Raytheeagle Senior Member

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    New handle kinda like “My Dude” (y).
     
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  11. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    Wife rolled into the garage, that leaf just affixed by rain. Snapped a pic.
     
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  12. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    MD, i was thinking the same thing
     
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  13. Raytheeagle

    Raytheeagle Senior Member

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    I know @Grit likes that a lot:).

    When we have meet ups out here, that’s how I greet him(y).
     
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  14. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    Use Toyota ATF WS only. Forget about moving the car while there is no fluid in the transaxle unless you really want to damage the transaxle.

    If you want to make the car level while the front is raised up on the ramps, why not raise the rear of the car with a hydraulic floor jack at the inverted tower near the center rear of the car. Add the 3.6 US quarts of ATF WS until fluid starts to drip out of the fill hole. Then lower the rear of the car. Get under the front of the car and tighten the fill plug, 29 ft.-lb torque, and then you can drive the car off the ramps.

    If you don't have a hydraulic floor jack, then fill the 3.6 quarts of ATF WS while the car is at an incline, until fluid starts to drip out of the fill hole, and accept that the transaxle may have ~4 ounces less fluid than it otherwise should have.
     
    #14 Patrick Wong, Jun 16, 2019
    Last edited: Jun 16, 2019
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  15. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    Or 4 oz less? Third gen fill bolt is towards rear IIRC.

    A long wrench makes bolt removal uneventful:

    IMG_0657.JPG
     
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  16. PixelRogue

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    Figured neutral would do it. No engine. But I'd rather not go this route. Seeking bottle jacks and stands.
     
  17. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    Yes. And the spec is that it is OK for the fluid level to be as much as 10 mm (or 0.394") below the fill hole, so the OP should be good either way.

    No engine - how are you going to get the car back up the ramps without engine power? You must be much stronger than I am.
    Forget about a bottle jack, get a real hydraulic floor jack to celebrate Father's Day.
     
    #17 Patrick Wong, Jun 16, 2019
    Last edited: Jun 16, 2019
  18. PixelRogue

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    Neutral doen the ramp. Then fill, hand tighten bolt. Drive it back up on the ramp for final adjustments.

    Seeking jack stands at present.
     
  19. Pluggo

    Pluggo Senior Member

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    I actually thought it was a OEM emblem for a Canadian version of the Prius. Years ago I got a tour of the General Motors plant in Newark Delaware. They were making Chevettes, but every once in a while they would put a Pontiac emblem on the fenders because someone ordered a T1000, AND I saw some of these same cars on the same assembly line roll off as Acadias with a nice maple leaf emblem because (so I was told) "Canadians won't buy a U.S. car."
     
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  20. ILuvMyPriusToo

    ILuvMyPriusToo Senior Member

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    Hate to spoil the party but that looks like a Japanese Maple leaf . . . :eek:

    Canada's logo is the Sugar Maple. ;)

    Just a reflection of today's global economy!

    (Hope the fluid change went well!)
     
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