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Need a fix for my problem: rattle and vibration when using gas

Discussion in 'Prius v Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by ZPV12, Jul 3, 2019.

  1. ZPV12

    ZPV12 Junior Member

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    2012 Prius v wagon
    Model:
    Three
    My 2012 v wagon has a problem I cannot figure out. It was purchased with 192K, and now has almost 196K. The problem, which started about 1,000 miles after purchase, is a short fast rattle that occurs when the car reaches 30ish mph and my foot is on the gas. Sometimes it happens when I let go of the gas to try to switch it to EV mode. I also recently noticed it while on cruise control on the highway. It seems that any acceleration will cause this rattle. Assuming it to be an engine-related problem, I have so far :
    Cleaned EGR cooler
    Cleaned EGR pipe
    Replaced spark plugs
    Cleaned intake manifold
    Cleaned the intake on engine block as best as possible
    Replaced main intake manifold gasket
    Replaced EGR pipe gasket
    Replaced PCV valve
    Replaced tubing connected to PCV valve

    What’s next?

    My assumption is that it is a physical mechanical problem; something that is connected to the engine block is loose and needs to be tightened/replaced.

    I am in Cambridge MA and there are enough gen III Prius and Prius v wagons for me to say that no one else seems to be having this problem, as far as I can tell with my ears when they drive by.

    Any one can help troubleshoot? My next step is to go to Toyota of Watertown to get their assessment.

    Anyone have any thoughts????
     
  2. Air_Boss

    Air_Boss Senior Member

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    Loose exhaust system heat shield?
     
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  3. ZPV12

    ZPV12 Junior Member

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    Can it be that simple??? I will try to jack the car up to determine.
     
  4. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    course it can. always start with the low hanging fruit
     
  5. ZPV12

    ZPV12 Junior Member

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    Also wanted to add:
    - Cleaned the magnetic EGR valve that sits beneath the plastic cap
    - Replaced original 12V battery as it read very low

    During the cleaning sessions I found:
    - EGR cooler was filthy and almost a complete solid, packed full with buildup
    - EGR pipe was surprisingly clean
    - Intake manifold had caked on layers of buildup
    - The spring loaded flap/gate (official name?) that sits between the air intake and the intake manifold had a ton of oil in it, as the intake manifold itself has a lot of oil
    -spark plugs appeared to be original, were dirty and had oil on them, though the coil packs themselves were dry

    Generally just dirty and appeared to have not been serviced at all.

    Other hypotheses:
    - The problem may be engine mounts?
    - Is the hybrid battery about to call it quits?
     
  6. Raytheeagle

    Raytheeagle Senior Member

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    How are the brakes?

    Oil catch can installed?

    What about wheel bearings?

    Is the noise from the front of the car?

    How’s the oil level?
     
  7. ZPV12

    ZPV12 Junior Member

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    Brakes are new all around, replaced by my mechanic after car was purchased.

    No oil catch can installed yet. I have been reading about them, is there a decent priced one you may recommend?

    Rattle is definitely acceleration related, occurring after/during foot on gas. I would be able to tell you what the rpm was if the car had a tach!

    Oil seems to be ok, checked last week and it was as it should be.
     
  8. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    Touring
    On our 2010 I've noticed a buzz sometimes, under moderate acceleration, around town. It comes and goes, and it's been there as long as I can remember. Not that loud, intermittent.

    All the stuff you're doing is commendable, especially with that mileage, but maybe that buzz sound is just the nature of the beast. Not sure.
     
  9. ZPV12

    ZPV12 Junior Member

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    Ugh just drove about 150mi this morning on highway and the Maintenance Required light just came on!

    Confirmed that the rattle happens when using cruise control on the highway.
     
  10. ZPV12

    ZPV12 Junior Member

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    So far only expenses have been spent on my mechanic to do the brakes, and the cost for the replacement parts from the dealer. It’s only been doable as my free time outside work and family to wrench is zero $/hr!
     
  11. Montgomery

    Montgomery Senior Member

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    Not sure if this will apply to you, but on some of my other cars I have owned, there are heat shields that cover the exhaust manifold and catalytic converter. Over time, these shields would eventual curve (due to exposure to extreme heat) and would touch (vibrate, much like a tuning fork- "tuning fork" used to tune musical instuments and hypnotize alien beings from another planet).
    It would only happen when the engine reached a certain rpm(at specific exceleration points), so finding what the issue was difficult and drove me nuts.

    The solutions was to bend out the heat shields. Hopefully this is what you are going thru.
     
  12. ZPV12

    ZPV12 Junior Member

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    Thanks for the tip, I will try to jack up the car this weekend and see if I can crawl under it. I have a feeling even with jack stands it will be a tight fit. From then hopefully I can see if I can make an assessment on the heat shields.
     
  13. ZPV12

    ZPV12 Junior Member

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    I also noticed increased vibration coming from below the hood at higher speeds, so maybe it has something to do with the engine mounting hardware?
     
  14. Montgomery

    Montgomery Senior Member

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    Something is rattling in your compartment. You will find it. It can be anything.
     
  15. Austin Longenecker

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    I had those exact same issues with my 2010 last year, and everything pointed to EGR problems. I had part of the EGR system replaced and cleaned the rest of it, even replaced the sparks plugs, but nothing helped. I can't say for certain this is what helped, but after I drained and replaced the engine coolant, all the shaking/vibrating and check engine light completely went away. I can't imagine how this may have fixed it but I drove it home one day, engine shaking, replaced the fluids, and drove back to university the next day with no issues.
     
  16. ZPV12

    ZPV12 Junior Member

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    Engine coolant flush. Ok another potential thing to do.
     
  17. Leadfoot J. McCoalroller

    Leadfoot J. McCoalroller Senior Member

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    Any chance this is early-stage head gasket failure?

    EGR blockage allows extra air, mix leaned out a bit with resulting cylinder overpressure, head gasket becomes compromised, coolant seeps into combustion for rough starts, eventually leading to misfire condition caught by ECU? Seems like a common pattern of symptoms.

    At least, check to make sure no coolant is missing before draining the system.
     
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  18. ZPV12

    ZPV12 Junior Member

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    Ok thx good tip. Also check the coolant level before anything is done.
     
  19. ZeroM8

    ZeroM8 Junior Member

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    Hey ZPV12, did you find the cause of the rattle. I'm having the same issue with my V and it drove my mechanic and myself to find out the cause with no luck so far -d some of the things you've done Can you tell us what have you found to fix it?
     
  20. ZPV12

    ZPV12 Junior Member

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    Hi yes, so the problem became so bad that I worked with the dealer whom I bought the car from, to send it to auction. It failed to sell twice. Then we decided to try and drive it to carmax, but it wouldn’t move much at all and was making a horrible terrible awful noise that we decided to leave it with the dealer, who offered to buy it back. He took it to the highest rated transmission shop in the area to diagnose it. Turns out it was a dampener between the transmission and engine that failed, and had damaged the transmission. The entire transmission was replaced with a used one with less miles, and last I heard the car is running fine. He ended up keeping it to use as a shop loaner. Parts were about $1200, and I don’t know what he paid for labor at the transmission shop, but it would have been more than I would be comfortable with paying, for a car with high mileage. I ended up losing a bunch of money on the car, and didn’t feel like a repair at that level was worthwhile, given the miles.

    Not sure how common this problem is, but it is the first I have heard of it. Hope this helps.
     
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