Exhaust valve failure

VVT has to do with camshaft timing. It sounds more like you're
talking about HCAC, the "switching" done to the exhaust path
through the catalytic in the Classic. $1500 ?! What are they
giving you, an entire new exhaust system? Or have they completely
misdiagnosed it on you?
.
_H*

 

Aha! I almost never get to talk about this. If your Prius odometer says less than 80,000 miles, you are in luck. It should also be true that your VIN ends in numbers lower than 20051999.

There is a TSB on this, namely EG-015-02. You may see a copy posted in the files section of the Yahoo toyota-prius-sat1 group. Briefly, when they see the P1436 code (probably about the same as your P1439), they replace the front pipe assembly with part #17410-21261.

Kinda odd they were familiar with the problem but not the TSB....If they don't wish to do it for free you need to change shops. If that happens, before leaving, ask the service manager's name so you can post it here.

If all goes well, thanks are due to Michelle (MRV) over in Yahoo-land who pulled all these TSBs together.

Ohmigosh my 2001 Prius has 85k miles...I better get down there with some anti-sieze.

DAS

 

Piss and Moan and complain. Not to the dealer but send it up the chain of command. See how you do. Include everything you have sited to us. Talk to people and make you self politely and assertively heard. Toyota may well respond, but do not take no for an answer. Firm and polite and move it on up.

 

A note to all: the TSBs in the files section of the Yahoo toyota-prius-sat1 group is an important resource. There is also a folder with new-model TSBs. Would the PC moderators wish to duplicate them here?

 

Not a bad price..Of course I am comparing to a similar situation I had with my 200 BMW 740i. When at 40,000 miles the engine light came on and BMW had a TSB that told us if the car was driven small distances the cylinderports would get clogged and need the heads pulled to be cleaned. Since my car was over the warranty by months, the stiffed me with the repair.....A Whopping $5,800.00.

 

Guys, TSB's are not covered by warranty. Hopefully this component falls under the powertrain warranty. It likely falls under the emissions warranty of 5 year, 50,000 miles.

(Edit: Or longer emissions warranty since it's a Prius).

Nate

 

Hey I have the same problem with both my 2003's. It sucks, you need to buy an entirely new exhaust system, at least the middle section that includes the catalytic converter, $1500 is what I was quoted also.

Here's what I did that seemed to alleviate the problem, at least for a period of time. What I did was get under the car and lubricate the valve. It's not as easy as it sounds, but it is a heck of a lot cheaper than $1500 x2.

Here are the steps I used:

1. Locate the HCAC, it is located on top of the exhaust pipe right in front of the First cataylitc converter. You will see a round vacuum acuator partially underneath a shield with a black hose running out of it and up into the floor board.

2. There is one nut that you can get to easily that holds the back corner of the shield down, mine was rusted beyond recognition. If you can get the nut off, pry the shield up a little and you will be able to see the linkage comes from the accuator going to the arm on the valve itself. I had to just pry the shield up, without taking the nut off.

3. I first used some 'WD-40' like rust breaking spray, I can't remember the name, but it is like WD-40 on steriods. Go to your local autozone or car parts store and ask for something that is better than WD-40. I sprayed this stuff right at the base of the arm so that the fluid would travel down the shaft of the valve and hopefully make it to the bottom of the valve's shaft and break up the rust. I did this a couple times and used a screwdriver to accuate the arm to help the fluid get in. Becareful what you are pushing on with the screwdriver, make sure it is the arm not the linkage, you can bend the linkage of damage the accuator if your not careful. Mine was very difficult to get moving again, but it is possible. After I had sprayed it liberally and got the valve moving well with the screwdriver. I let the car sit for several hours, spraying it occasionally, trying to give it plenty of time for the fluid to get all the way to the bottom of the valve.

4. You can do this next step the same day or like in my case I figured it out much later. I found out that I needed a lubricant that withstand the heat of the exhaust system. Again, at the local car parts shop, I found a spray lubricant that, I believe, is graphite based, at any rate it can withstand high temps of exhaust. I followed the same routine with it that I did with the rust breaker, spray, move the valve, spray, let it sit, etc.

So far this has seemed to help at least manage the problem, it's not fixed, but the engine light isn't coming on and I can hear the valve move. It is starting to squeak more here lately, so when I do my next maintenance on the cars this spring I will probably do this whole routine over again.

By the way, I did all of this last Aug-Sept and it is still working now, so that gives you an idea of the effectiveness of my band-aid. Sorry for the book...

Hope this helps, PM me if you want more details

Thanks,
Greg

PS, I called the dealership about this and they said it wasn't covered by any warranty

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(ggarman @ Apr 4 2006, 11:11 AM) [snapback]234693[/snapback]</div>

Have you check the warranty booklet that come with the car? It shows a parts list of what's covered and how long the emission warranty is. It's better to check for urself than just listen to what the dealership tells you.

 

How many nmiles on your '03? Emission warrantee is 5/50K, more in some states. This is part of the emission system.

 

(bump) move this to the Gen1 forum, please.

Elderly Gen1 Prius owners, I suggest that rather than blindly spraying lubricant into the HCAC pivot region, you remove the intermediate pipe/resonator/cat converter assembly and lube the pivot point offline. Procedure: Raise the car about 15 inches. Unplug the #2 O2 sensor inside the car [under the passenger side rug] & push it out; remove the HCAC vacuum hose [small, black rubber hose]; 2 14mm bolts to the engine side, 2 14mm bolts to the muffler; 2 hangar brackets in the middle. Try not to break any of the 10mm nuts which hold covers and studs related to the HCAC in place. Liquid Wrench is the WD-40 "on steroids" a poster above suggests; use plenty, than give it time to work its magic. Once the assembly is removed and you see the pivot, find and work the pivot of the HCAC (with a vise-grip plyer as lever) while applying WD-40 directly to the pivot point. When you're done, it should move easily; spring loaded. Reinstallation of the intermediate assembly is the reverse of removal. Don't forget the HCAC vacuum line or the O2 sensor connection. It's about 2 hours the first time you do it; about an hour the next. A 14mm deep socket and 2 6in (150mm) ratchet extensions is helpful for the forward bolts. So is the use of a drill adapted to an electric screwdriver for the re-installation; the bolts are spring loaded, so one must push against the springs AND turn the socket to get the bolts to engage properly.

 

WD40.

So many better lubricants out there than that crap.

 

edthefox5, please name them & tell me why you find them better. I find WD-40 generally useful, but I've had special cases when Liquid Wrench or a different lube/solvent is needed.

 

CSP found at Home Depot. Its the best no smell heavy weight spray that stays where you put it. 100% better lubricant than WD40 which is basically kerosene and the best anti corrosion product you can buy for the money. I hose my cars suspensions with this stuff works great.

NO SMELL!