few error codes

*****
I dont see corrosion at ecu, but i havent popped the cover and checked the module bolts - he did ask about the bat i had and even popped the cover on it to check as he said some guy has been replacing batteries and putting 'grease' to help prevent corrosion and that was causing problems when it heats up and causes the modules to short through the grease. i presume now that i have livestream voltage data of the module pairs, temps that the ecu is behaving and talking - he's not my hero , he's more like what a scoundrel acts like , he seemed to be doing good up until he went overboard during the his test drive and esp. at the end of it -

\Yes he could have done a better job taking time to see the initial state of the car ---- he hooked up and saw the HV module delta error and did some stuff on his phone and began thhe disassembly.


I tried looking for freezeframe data, torque responded that there wasnt any.

 

Car sat since last year, it was being driven daily until ~ Mar 2017 - the car died on way to work, aux bat issues - i through a 20amp.hr bat in for a temp , may have had a miata battery also - terminal connections to it seemed to be less than optimal. HV bat pack long game of try and replace modules to keep it going was played again ( i did also tried this on an '01 prius years earlier) ---
the 1st battery replacement guy came around june/july 2018 to swap packs out, we had no heavy test drive and it ran fine and ran as long as i kept it charged by starting it once a week or 2. things got busy with work, long trips to jobs sites and long trips to night class -\ car sat and batteries died ...

 

he wants the 'code' (HV block error like P3012 ) .. -- to attribute to bad battery - I can understand this to a point. He's merely saying that he feels the car (P0A7A) is NOT pointing to the HV battery as being the problem. The P0A7A is not a clear cut code saying the HV battery is AFU. If you have a video of your Block 12 voltage acting stupid, send that to him. THAT is pretty clearly a problem that needs to be fixed.

---
I did send a couple pics of the voltages streaming live --- pics of the block 12 showing negative while all other blocks are positive
i guess a video would be more affirming and i'll prob. do that tomorrow that shows the voltage flickering + to - every second , 2 or 3

 

Here is the advert (pdf) -
Pic of guages, usefull is the bat temps,
pic of -15.6v on block 12 (closeup)
p3000 error and p3004 error
p0afa

 

I wonder why there is no P3022 being thrown since that is the block that is flaky ...

 

if i had techstream lite, then i could see the ff data ? torque is reporting there is none (or perhaps the elm version of adaptor is not up to the
toyota standard protocol (IEEE) to get it, it's 'not privy' to receiving it with the lower level adaptor ...?

 

do u think if i replace both modules at block 12 or maybe its just one, (of course making sure they r within 1.2v of the others) that the error might go away ? ....

 

Those crimps .. the tab is pretty thin, it doesnt take much handling/ folding to weaken them, they can enter a state of half on/half off sort of -- i noticed this on my 01 prius when trying to rebuild the battery --
one tab broke and i soldered it and always kept my fingers crossed - the fix for that car was buying a pull battery someone else had laying around that they didnt need, those arent cheap beacuse they weight 100# and are not as plentiful as gen 2 (even 9-10 yrs ago )

but lookiyng at the module connector/tab (i have already checked the ECU plugs and pins look clean)
so the harness may (after having taken battery cover off) have issues or the terminating wire to the battery module and that crimp tab connecor - but craiglist hero , Dennis, has all refurbed and cleaned everything , how could that be ? ?!?!??

Is it possible a guy pretends to be a Polish decent (but is really Russian) all to throw the suspecting victim/sucker(myself) off his trail ?
Because I have heard a Russian guy say 'Thanks God .. or Thanks to God I am not ...' and the guy sure sounded Russian to me, and he was rushing the job pretty hard too ....

Incidentally , there is a Hybrid Battery Doctor, Inc. in Sarasota , 866-344-9274, they do have a Russian named Dennis working there, he may be doing batteries as 'side work' on his own, ...
Hybrid Battery Doctor, Inc.
4411 Bee Ridge Rd STE 169
Sarasota, FL 34233-2514
(866) 344-9274

There is also something in Tampa operating under the same exact name, .. though different #
727-307-9514 Affordable Hybrid Battery Repair Of Tampa Bay, Florida

Then there is another in Tampa: Hybrid Battery Repair Shop in Tampa Florida | Greentec Auto
.

 

It appears either the pos or the neg makes quite a nasty build up ... as seen in the pic of used units... and they did not go generous on the copper thickness, its prob. 1/4 thickness of a penny, maybe <1/2 the thickness of a dime

 

So i popped the bat cover, and numbered cells from right to left (computer side is 14 block) - checked the terminals and the voltage sensor on 12 (which has a tab between block 12 and 13) .. tabs seem ok, the crimps on the vSense wires are really thin... no beef there ... don't think there is continuity between the wire and the connector ) -- for grins and giggle i left the sensewire off , reattached the 8mm nuts and turn car on to see what error it might throw, samy p0afa, but live voltage data reports + block 12, + block 13 and back and forth every few seconds, one is pos the other is neg ...

 

So IT WORKS ! - it was not the sensor connector or that tab on the front side, though cleaning sure didnt hurt, but the back side tab, one side of the tab had heavy corrosion and what looked like discolored nut surface, more rubbing alcohol and qtip on that several times until as only a small discoloration was left on the tab and also cleaning crush side of nut, reinstall, clear code and it went away , i had a feeling it would because the voltage flip flop was gone on stream, thanks a ton to you guys that helped, esp EricBecky who was quick to discuss over phone and get me going with the torque pro app, which i loaded onto an old droid , and that was a learning curve it self but gave me the kind of inexpensive and fast diagnostics i needed to hone it down and TMR-JWAP for his continued responses ... WHOO HOO !!!

 

that was the deal, the backside tab, one side had enough corrosion between itself and discolored nut crush surface to not make enough contact ....

 

You can see the voltage sense connector, was cleaned but wasnt actually the problem but the tab on the back of the battery (picture not shown), one side of that tab had heavy corrosion ... and discolored nut ....
Image showing connector, considered FRONT of battery pack.

 

Thanks man, thanks for your input too ... now i just need to get a battery, just measured the Lead Acid (supposed to be 330/340) at 239 cca by a qualified advance auto machine and operator, I know its supposed to be agm, and maybe the company i bought this battery from will pro-rate exchange the lead acid for an agm - LA just doesnt keep its level of voltage -- AAuto did promote their bats 209 to 239 $(optima). lead acid has a tendancy to drop perhaps 1% per day of its charge whereas AGM has a high tendancy to keep its charge for months...