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PSA Warning: "Toyota Prius 2ZE head gasket replacement (complete step by step)" on Youtube

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Care, Maintenance & Troubleshooting' started by Atari, Jul 9, 2019.

  1. Atari

    Atari Member

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    Just a warning to anyone thinking of following this video from "Gasket Masters" on Youtube:



    It is definitely not complete. They skip nearly all of the most difficult/time consuming portions dealing with the drivers side of the cylinder head (removal of EGR cooler, large hose going into cylinder head, etc. -- these are all a m@#!@#!$er to get to.)

    For the EGR part you can also look at NutzAboutBolts video:


    Or just know that the "invisible" bolt holding the EGR cooler to the cylinder head can be removed with a 12MM deep socket directly connected to a long armed flex head ratchet. Try anything else and you might as well just punch yourself in the face.
     
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  2. mikey_t

    mikey_t Active Member

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    True. When I did mine I couldn't get my arm around like he did in the video. When I crouched at the right level and angle I could actually see the bolt so I figured out that the 12mm with long extension would work with some finagling. Though the exact placement might be slightly different in the 2010 vs later models like the car he worked on.
     
  3. Rebound

    Rebound Senior Member

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    Just pull the darn engine out...
     
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  4. Atari

    Atari Member

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    Haha. Man for all that work to replace the head gasket, and being that its a [shudder] 2010..... yeah.... if I could do it over again I would just do the 2016 engine swap. Live and learn.
     
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  5. Atari

    Atari Member

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    I figured out how to access that elusive stud in 2 seconds!

    Taking it off is easy enough... you can use a flex-head ratchet and a deep socket 12mm from above.

    It's putting the nut back on that's the hard part.

    The secret is that you need to lay on top of the engine (or stand on a stool from the front) and reach your arm/hand over, around, and under the right side of the valve cover by the right exhaust manifold. That allows you to start the nut on the stud again pretty easily, then you can tighten again with the flex/12mm from above.
     
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  6. mikey_t

    mikey_t Active Member

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    I followed the advice of some folks here and just left it off.
     
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  7. Rebound

    Rebound Senior Member

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    If you don’t drop the blasted thing into the engine bay first...
     
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  8. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    It occured to me, after watching @Ragingfit install a 3rd gen EGR on a 4th gen engine (it basically free-spans from the exhaust manifold to the intake manifold, no intermediate connections to the engine), that maybe you could just leave that nut off, and everything would still be very solid.

    I mentioned that here, and @Raytheeagle confirmed: that's what he does, in his EGR "clinics".
     
  9. Raytheeagle

    Raytheeagle Senior Member

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    The under Cooler nut is a fiddly bit:cool:.

    I have a collection going (up to 8 nuts right now):).

    You have at least 5 other securements, and leaving the stud there for the cooler to rest is enough(y).
     
  10. schmuber

    schmuber Member

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    Ok, since we're talking about hoses… How to remove the thick short hose on a driver side of the head? Undoing the clamps that hold the metal pipe, or is there another way?
     
  11. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    Someone was saying there was a bracket that could be unbolted, gives you some room?
     
  12. schmuber

    schmuber Member

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    2 brackets actually. Undone both. Bottom one is a beatch, while the top one could be reached surprisingly easily through the top with a very long extension.
     
  13. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    And still no joy.
     
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  14. Raytheeagle

    Raytheeagle Senior Member

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    The joy comes at the end when everything is assembled, no codes and a cold adult beverage in your hand;).

    Patience is a virtue(y).
     
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  15. schmuber

    schmuber Member

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    Just realized that he omits at least one more thing in the video, which will turn the engine into a leak-o-matic. That captive 10mm bolt on a timing cover needs a FIPG (I'm scraping FIPG off my head block and just noticed an odd location). Looks like that video is actually quite dangerous.
     
  16. Atari

    Atari Member

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    That's what my dad suggested after 30 mins of taking turns trying to get it on. Then I reached around and under the top-right of the valve cover, had it on in 2 seconds and we both looked at each other and shaked our heads.
     
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  17. Atari

    Atari Member

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    Yeah there's some FIPG discrepancies in how they do it Vs. how Toyota Techinfo recommends. Although, if you do what Toyota recommends in terms of all of the tests and checks and everything, you might as well be building a new car. Or at least swapping in a 2016 engine. So much wrong with the 2010-2011 in terms of the IM, EGR, head, cylinder rings, emissions and cooling system.

    Btw, after replacing my headgasket I STILL get a P0401 code popping up -- still can't smog it.

    No more coolant loss and shaking though.
     
  18. schmuber

    schmuber Member

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    What trips it? It's not like they have an airflow sensor in the EGR tract… My EGR cooler was totally clogged, pretty much zero flow – yet I've never seen a P0401.

    My 2010 made it to 240K miles before it blew the head gasket. None of my pre-Prius cars ever made it this far without a catastrophic failure.
     
    #18 schmuber, Jul 18, 2019
    Last edited: Jul 18, 2019
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  19. wheezyglider

    wheezyglider Active Member

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    I made a note from somewhere in the holy Repair Manual regarding the EGR Flow Insufficiency Monitor:
    The listed "trouble areas" are: EGR valve assembly, EGR passage, EGR with cooler pipe sub-assembly, Manifold absolute pressure sensor, ECM.

    They also have a test where you idle the engine and operate the EGR valve (Control the EGR Step Position Active Test). You open it bit by bit (less than 30), and the idle should roughen and there should be at least 10kPa (or 75 mmHg) increase in MAP value compared to when EGR valve is fully closed.

    And yeah it seems rare that anyone gets any warning about clogged EGR -- until they read the gen 3 forums that is.
     
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  20. Atari

    Atari Member

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    One thing worth mentioning is that when I cleaned my already mostly clean EGR, I noticed that the plunger would seem to stick open sometimes for no reason. It doesn't have any debris in there anymore.