Getting good results with Tufoil oil additive

Once the "honed""striae" layer of the cylinder wall or the rings are polished, the car will burn or pass oil.

The only way to repair this is to re-hone the cylinder walls and to replace the rings.

A few dollars ($3-4) to add 3-4 0z. of Luqui Moly MoS2 at every 10k oil change, is cheap insurance, if you plan to keep the car for a long time.

I'm about protecting the engine. I can care less about mileage claims.

 

i wonder how much leno got paid for that?

 

Well that used to be true. Now-a-days, not because of science but because of shyster legal action, oil that is "extra refined" from common petroleum stock can also be called "synthetic". It is really sad.

You have something all wrong here.
Synthetic oil does not by definition have PTFE in it.
As a matter of fact, I don't think that ANY of the common synthetic brands to.

 

This would be pretty funny.....until you think about the number of people who are probably taken in by it.
IIRC, boron is ground up rock.

Anyway, I'd never touch anything that is "recommended" for use in the engine, transmission AND rear end........since the lubrication requirements are quite different in those three areas.

 

What the hell does (comma!) mean?

 

Comma - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

 

I never said that synthetic oil had PTFE in it!!
I said to read about, "PTFE ".
I posted what REAL synthetic oil has in it.
They call it, " Full Synthetic Oil ".
Does this old man have to draw you a picture; If I can still draw!!
I love playing with this smiliey faces!!

If you like, press " Like " .

 

I'm getting tired, now!!
May this will help you.....
Synthetic oil - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

 

Maybe not but you made a strong implication that it does.
What WAS your intent of mentioning "synthetic" and "ptfe" in those two consecutive sentences like that if NOT to imply that there was a link ??

AND there is no legal restriction on the qualifiers of "synthetic" either.
Companies are perfectly free to use "full synthetic" to describe the petro based product too.

Anyone who is concerned about getting "real" synthetic oil needs to get the spec's for the actual product to see what it's made of.
You can not depend on the label or marketing materials.

 

Are you listening.......or just wanting to run off at the mouth ??

That Wiki article is a good description of "true" or "real" synthetic.
Many oils that are labeled "synthetic" today do NOT meet those specs.

Maybe THAT information will help YOU......but somehow I doubt it.

 

I have read all of this very carefully and have learned to extend the life of my engine I must follow this advice:

I always carry jumper cables in my trunk.
I always get lunar mileage out of my engine.
Therefore.....
Jumper cables will help to mitigate engine wear.

(This makes more sense than a lot of what is on the internet.)

All I need to do now is find my jumper cables. Thanks ETC!

 

I do know!! ..... I've worked in the oil business.

The problem with you, is that you are twisting things around. Splitting hairs!!
I'm too old for games; grow up!!

Your thinking that real oil is 100% oil!! ..... It's not; it has chemical detergents and additives in it.
ZDDP is an anti-wear additive used in motor oil. The technical name for ZDDP is Zinc Dialkyl DithioPhosphate; if I spelled it right. You can call it "zinc" to make it simple. When I was working; it was in all the major brands; just one of MANY additives that BIG OIL uses.

As I said earlier; BIG OIL has secrets; have you looked on an oil container for a listing of what is in it; and its %.
Their formulas are kept secret. Do you really KNOW what is in your motor oil? That is all what I'm saying!!

Son; I know what I'm talking about, and I know that you think you do!! Maybe your right; I probably said to much. If I still worked; I would have been fired for what I said.

This thread in about TUROIL additive, but we got off subject.

 

It's about 67 years too late for me to "grow up".

And you are not seeing what I am saying but are adding things that I did NOT say.

Games indeed; silly ones. I quit.

 

Some individuals get wisdom with age.

Others just get OLD.

 

All these additives are very effective -- at lining the pockets of their marketers.

 

That's the name of the game, to make money!!
Big oil is very good at it; and they control lots of smaller companies, some that even make additives.

 

I really can't recall if I ever posted in Prius Chat forums before; if I did it was years & years ago. Anyway, all great info & worthy of consideration. I can make no claims nor pass any judgments, but many thanks to all of those who've taken the time to post.

With info that I've read here, I went & spent untold hours doing research (including the technical specifications) & comparisons on the interweb, on finding & deciding on a synthetic transmission fluid for my 2004 Prius, which I decided was (for me) the Redline D6. I recently changed the original fill of Toyota WS - long overdue & brown @ ~170K miles. OK, I bought into Toyota's words "lifetime" until I read that it actually meant for the life of the vehicle, & that meant that if the transmission gave out ~170K miles, I'd likely be replacing the vehicle; hence, "lifetime". My 2004 Gen II runs so well, I decided I'd like to keep it for as long as I'm able.

SO... since I've used a Mobil 1 synthetic combined with the TufOil product in all of my personal vehicle & equipment engines & elsewhere (like differentials & manual gearcases) where applicable, & always (for many years) had very good results, yet since Mobil didn't make a synthetic transmission fluid that met or exceeded the Toyota WS specification, that was the reason I came to the Pruis Chat forum venue to see if I could find a consensus on a replacement. Many thanks for the education & leads!

Now, as for the TufOil product, I've had some discussions with the product developer (personally) & several of their Q&A Techs, & also did some research "back in the day" when Slick 50 made its first debut with its Teflon. Well, PTFE isn't Teflon, it's the un-catalyzed polymer resin. Think, polyester resin (liquid) vs cured (catalyzed = hard) plastic of fiberglass, for instance. There's also lots of very detailed Prius transmission design & function info on Werner Institute's site, which I also reviewed carefully. There appears to be nothing contradicting the use of PTFE in either the engine or transmission of a Prius. I wouldn't recommend using it in a standard automatic or CVT or wet sump type motorcycle transmission though, as it would reduce friction & cause malfunction &/ damage!

I have no idea just how much is a "standard" amount of oil-burning in a Prius engine with the age & mileage of mine, but I regularly use ~1 quart in 10K miles, & I use the 5W-30 type as recommended in the owner's manual, & when it does come out, it's a maple-syrup-brown color. I also researched & use an extended-length (Mobil 1) oil filter.

My background has been as a marine service technician & later a business owner in the same field for >20 years, on all sorts of marine engines (inboard, outboard, & inboard/outboard, 2 & 4-stroke, gasoline & diesel) & now as I've gotten to "Seasoned Citizen" status, a commercial driver.

I've loved my Prius since the day I bought it new & when that day comes to replace it, I'll buy another in a heartbeat! Fantastic work of engineering genius!

I don't know if any of this has been helpful or informative, but I post my experience with those 2 products.

 

I have run Redline D6 in my bought new 07 since it was new that’s 12 years and 140000 miles.
3 trans fluid changes so far but really only one change was necessary. Once the initial wear break in was removed at 5,000 miles its been very clean ever since.
I have pulled multiple UOA's with excellent wear metrics there over in the trans sticky's. Great product.

For the last few years like many other posters I noticed minor engine oil loss using Mobil 1 it started around 100000 miles. I check the oil on my cars before I start the car every Saturday so there monitored very carefully.

When the minor oil loss started I moved over to Redline Engine oil 5-30. It’s an interesting product it feels very odd to the finger like it’s liquid plastic very very slippery and it also has a ZDDP pack in it. It’s touted to become a 40 weight oil at operating temp and it has stopped my minor oil loss. And it also has really quieted down the solid lifter motor. It just runs great. I highly recommend it over any engine additive. I think if you try it you will be impressed.
The 40 weight has not hurt my mileage I bench tested my mileage 2 days ago and I’m getting 50 mpgs at 60 miles an hour.

To prove my point here's some valve train pics. No additives just really high quality engine oil and keep the oil right at the full line at all times.

140,000 miles. 12 years old:

 

The sports car has run Redline in engine, transmission and differential since the 1980s. Great lubricants, and no issues with 50 year old seals.

 

I couldn't figure out how to edit my post above for correction, but the mention of "Werner Institute" was incorrect; I'm including a YouTube link for the video I watched in learning more about the Gen II Toyota Prius transmission (there are videos on other models of Toyota Prius transmissions). It's was rather long & technical, but very informative. I noted in particular how there were no clutches or wearing clutch-type parts & hence, seemed to me to only benefit by a reduction of friction & heat. My thanks & credit to Weber State University (WSU) - Automotive Technology Department - Transmission Lab for posting this & other Prius transmission video series.