Brakes/rotors/alignment?

High speed brake shake is not an alignment problem. First place to look is the runout on the new rotors.

 

You said you got the rotors done a few months ago, which implies a shop did it. Take it back to them and have them resolve it under their warranty.

 

If you have a runout gage, mount it on the car and check the runout. More than a few thousandths out and you may get some wobble. You can also unmount the rotors and check the hub face - make sure that is perfectly clean and the rotor mounted flat on it.

 

It depends. It may not be the rotors. If it is the rotors, a remount might fix it. You might have defective rotors under warranty. You might be able to turn the rotors if they are lightly warped. In other words, no good answer until you find the problem.

 

The manual suggests a procedure for any time you're putting a rotor on: put it on all five ways, measure the runout each way, choose the one with the least.

When putting an old rotor back on an old hub, I've definitely seen that make a significant difference (runout could be several thousandths out of spec, 4 out of 5 ways, and neatly within spec, the one other way).

Harder to say what happens with a new rotor on a new hub, or a new rotor on an old hub (well wire-wheeled clean, ideally). But it is an easy procedure to follow to make sure you get the minimum runout you can.

On the same lines, any time a rotor needs to be cut, Toyota recommends the on-car type of lathe, so it ends up flat in its actual plane of rotation.

 

Here's the runout spec and how to check:

(Full document attached too, see below.)

Here's a dial indicator (with magnetic base) example, about $35:

(If you have an ad blocker running, you may need to switch it off to see the link. I can't see it myself, lol.)

Local automotive specialty shops should have them too, readily available. They are easy to use.

Just for giggles, something you can try first: raise the front, loosen and retighten the lug nuts. There's an outside chance some gorilla installed the wheels with an impacti wrench at full power, and not in a criss-cross pattern. This might be distorting them, hopefully not permanently.

 

Could also be worn tie rod ends...

 

+1

A rule of thumb for diagnosing vibration under heavy braking:
- if the vibration is in the brake pedal, it's uneven rotor surface
- if the vibration is in the steering wheel, it's steering or suspension (typically tie rods ends or control arm bushings)

 

Did the shakes start after the brake service "a couple of months ago", after you changed the tires "two days ago"...or was it like that before hand?

 

The temp difference will not cause the steering wheel to shake...and I hope your wheels were balanced with the tire installation. "Uneven tire wear" can mean many things...so without pictures we can only speculate. Your vehicle is a 2013 with over 120,000 miles of unknown terrain, unknown driving habits and unknown maintenance. You don't have the tooling, equipment or know how to troubleshoot and/or repair this issue. I respectfully suggest you take your vehicle to a reputable "legitimate" front end shop (tires/brakes/alignment) that does...and move on to your next fire in life.