New Toyota Hybrid Battery is inexpensive-Would you still buy a Non-Toyota battery instead?

If cheaper, yes

 

Unless I planned to drive the car to its grave, no. A genuine Toyota battery adds significantly more resale value than any other battery.

 

How much for the Toyota Battery? Which non-Toyota battery, and how much?

Without prices, it is impossible to make a reasoned response. $1,000 for a new Toyota vs $900 for a non-Toyota, that is a no-brainer. $2000 for a new Toyota vs $500 for a quality non-Toyota is a different story.

 

I profoundly dislike the idea of calling around to Toyota dealerships until I find one who is willing to sell me a part, possibly with a scowl on their face. I am not trying to do anything wrong or illegal, all I want is a part to repair my car, like millions of other people do every day. I shouldn't have to know a guy who knows a guy, or go around begging for information, or get treated differently just because of the type of powertrain in my car. There are millions of these cars on the road and if it was any other part I could buy it no questions asked without issue. It is a terrible feeling and it hurts my heart.

Some of the dealers have even now listed the HV battery as Discontinued. For example, go on Olathe Toyota parts website and type G9510-47031 and it will say "No longer for sale". See also this thread HV battery NLA! | PriusChat

I had my non-Toyota NewPriusBatteries dot com cylindrical batteries in less than a week - they responded very quickly to my email questions. It came in a nice little box with nice padding everywhere like any normal product. There are some quirks in the product that I would like to see improve - but nothing major. The only gamble I made on NPB was whether the product is equivalent - as time goes by, evidence is favoring NPB, although I obviously suffer from confirmation bias in anything I say about them. But if the question is about which would I rather, I'd rather go NPB again.

 

The conclusion you have jumped to might not be correct.

That can mean that original part number has been "superceeded" by a slightly different one with a new number.......and somebody along the line has gotten lazy about putting in a cross reference.

 

Let's be clear.

New Prius still uses NIMH and in fact, uses 100% compatible prismatic modules.

Gen 4 cells in a Gen 2 | Page 2 | PriusChat

So ... the question is, why in the world are they saying "discontinued" for Gen2 packs when they are selling brand new Gen4 packs using identical modules.

If they sold the individual modules, in a batch of 28 modules, it could be used in either Gen4 or Gen2 prius. But they don't.

Think about it. It's the Apple model - make the battery unreplacable so customers have to buy new product.

 

Why someone would pay $1600 for aftermarket modules to build a battery when the complete new Toyota OEM battery sells for $1657?

2006 Toyota Prius HYBRID Battery assembly, hv supply. Electrical, wiring, cable - G951047031 | DARCARS Toyota, Frederick MD

 

I would stick with OEM myself. I replaced mine with new OEM in 2016 and will do so again when this one goes bad (if I decide to keep the car at that time)

 

Newbie - question: 12 Prius C3 188K, daughter driving car, Warning message “CHECK HYBRID SYSTEM STOP THE VEHICLE IN A SAFE PLACE IMMEDIATELY”, which she did. I then read a post that someone had disconnected 12v which cleared the warning, and they drove car away. I was out of town so had a friend disconnect/reconnect the 12v, warning cleared, drove a few miles to relocate, seemed normal. Back in town now, I have driven nearly 200 miles with normal operation and fuel mileage presentation. Trouble code gone, so dealer can’t tell what happened. Recommendations? Keep driving? How far might it go? Arbitrarily replace HV battery $$$! ? Drive it down to the boat ramp? We love the car.

 

I recommend you start a new thread in the Prius C forums. They would be more prepared to help you.

 

Did the dealer actually TELL you that or are you guessing ?

There are some things that they can do but if the codes really are gone, most are too lazy to actually DO it.
Checking the 12 V battery is one thing.

The codes might be "stored" in a manner that they don't appear to be "active" anymore.

I recommend a dealer visit if you haven't already done that but you probably are going to have to drive it until the codes come back.

P.S. Yes, this should NOT have been tacked onto the tail of an unrelated thead.
Maybe the moderator can move it for you.