Replace Oil Drain Pan

Oil pan sounds the way to go. (if you have the time but sounds like you don't) buy a Fumoto valve and have it installed by welding a nut to the lowest side of the pan. Side is cool because you'll never damage it by hitting something as its out of the way. Fumoto dump valve is so very sweet. Someday you'll thank me.

Best way to chase the bolt holes is just flush them out with carb cleaner. Then with the bolts clean just use the bolt to chase them. Put all the bolts in the holes then with a small wire brush and carb cleaner clean the engine pan mating surface. Bolts in holes keeps the bolt holes from being fouled again. You can go to town scrubbing away. Buy some nitrile gloves at the auto parts store and a good set of goggles at Lowes or HD.

Eye protection is job one. Nothing will matter that day if you get a piece of metal in your peeper and its ER time.
And no car to go to the ER.

While in there take oil pan sump pickup off and flush it out. Then with rag soaked in carb cleaner clean off as much of the engine walls as you can. Do not flush out the main bearings though. Ok to wipe the outside off with a rag though. No paper towels anywhere in there.

The hard part and this will bust your balls is the Permatex gasket stuff. It has to be applied properly and installed at the exact moment.
If installed to wet it will all squish out and not seal. If installed to dry will not seal. Either failures pan has to come off cleaned and re-done.
Apply a bead to the pan anywhere as this is a test. Clock exactly how long it takes that bead to set up and become almost completely dry but still slightly squish able without getting the slightest bit liquidy. Form the bead with your wet finger to cover the pan flange perfectly before beginning time test. 1/16 of an inch thick uniformly on the flange. Then determine proper set up by squishing it with a flat piece of metal real hard. Time this length to dry. Has to be correct because if you don't know this you cannot see the pan bead after bolting it down and if not right and starts to leak you will not know till maybe too late. Lean a little to the dry side of the squish. Should be almost completely dry before installing.

After installing pan let it sit overnight to finish drying before adding engine oil and starting. Tighten the bolts till the pan is snug. Let Permatex dry overnight and then next morning tighten them to final torque. Install new oil filter. Fill with cheap motor oil. Drive it a little bit then change the oil and filter again with Mobil ONE 10-30.
Go FUMOTO lol....

This permatex trick is hard for someone never using this product before. You'll see what I mean. I have done this so many times.

 

Is there a difference between Toyota's Seal Packing 103 FIPG and Permatex you recommend? My oil pan drain hole thread is chewed up pretty and I would like to replace the pan. Luckily the car (2008 Prius) is in my garage and for the price of the pan I think it is worthwhile replacing rather than messing with self tapping. FIPG videos online make it seem like it is a fairly straightforward process but your post on using Permatex suggests that it is a tricky process. Thanks !

 

Toyota Form in place gasket is the way to go but sometimes hard to find. Black permatex will work fine too but what I was saying is don't just squirt it on and bolt it up most of it will just squirt out you have to let it set up for a while and harden up into a nice firm squishable bead.

if not familiar with it get 2 flat pieces of wood and experiment with it to see how long it takes to dry up to a fairly firm bead. Time it.
Its all different set up time based on your present temperature.

New pan is the way to go. if I was in your place I would buy a fumoto valve and drill a hole in the side of the pan and install it in the new pan. pretty easy just need to drill a big hole. I like the side mount as opposed to installing it in the dump bolt hole as the prius is a very low car to begin with and with it side mounted it may not see any fod damage.

 

Item 29, oil pan lower here:

Oil Pan for 2008 Toyota Prius | Toyota Parts

Around $50

Repair manual install instruction attached. Be careful with the "80 inch pounds" torque spec, that's 6~7 foot pounds.

 

Thanks for the advise. My pan will arrive tomorrow and it gives me the weekend to take the time to mount it carefully. I will save the Fumoto valve install for another time since I have a damaged pan that I can try it on

 

Thanks for the install instructions and pdf, definitely helpful !! I had already ordered my pan from Amazon. Will lookup McGeorge Toyota for other parts. Thanks again.

 

In the pdf take note of the form-in-place gasket instruction. Maybe varies using Permatex, but Toyota recommends 3 minutes from application to install, with the stuff they spec.

 

I recently installed a fel pro oil pan gasket, seems to work fine. No leaks yet

 

When using FIPG (or any RTV), the most important step is to clean all mating surfaces until they are 100% free of any old RTV. The surfaces need to have a mirror finish so do not scrape with a metal scraper. Using a fine-grade wire wheel on a drill is your best option if you do not have access to the necessary chemicals.

Ideally, spray CRC gasket remover on the surfaces and allow it to sit (while remaining wet) for at least 10 min. Then use a plastic scraper or a plastic razor blade to scrape off the old RTV.

The RTV needs to dry for at least one hour before adding oil. Ideally, overnight for maximum seal.

 

That plug won't work in a Prius V. I just went to get my oil changed at a local Sears store, and they told me the pan needed replacement because the plug hole was stripped. They asked if I could wait 2-3 hours so they can get a new pan, or would I rather they use a rubber plug until my next oil change.

I chose the rubber plug. It did not fit. The rubber plug's smallest diameter is 1/2 inch (about 13mm), and the drain plug is 12mm. I wish that I knew about tapping it out to 14 mm, because that actually makes more sense than replacing the whole pan. I had thought the oil drained out kinda slow when I changed the oil.

I only have sears do my oil changes now because they give Uber drivers 1/2 off on oil changes. It would cost me $27 to do the oil change myself, and they do full synthetic for $40. They also check the alignment and rotate the tires for free. Well worth $13 not to get dirty!

BTW: I have been changing my own oil for decades now. I knew that in theory it was possible to strip a drain plug, I just have never heard of it happening to anyone I know (until now). Is there something wrong with Toyota drain pans?

 

It can happen to any drain pan especially ones made of aluminum. I had my old Honda with stripped drain pan thread. It often happens in lube place using a power wrench and tighten the plug too hard or cross thread it.

 

Exactly.

DIY'rs with just hand tools would never have a problem.

 

My question is who stripped the plug? Not much of a bargain if they strip your oil plug.

 

Rude person's, you and I are old school. I have ruined many an oil pan thread by over tightening and you are correct. Your way works, and is permanent. Fast, easy...............done!!

 

Somebody monkeying around with my response? It was addressed to Rude person's and it shows in my edit frame. NOT Rude persons! What the heck is going on here?

 

Rude person's

 

Everytime I type Rude person's, it comes up Rude person. This is so wrong!

 

m i k e f i v e h u n d r e d

 

I agree with M I K E F I V E H U N D R E D