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Could the p3000 code be related to the 12v battery?

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Main Forum' started by Jeremy Brown, Oct 20, 2019.

  1. Jeremy Brown

    Jeremy Brown New Member

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    ----USA----
    I have a 2006 Prius that has 230,000 miles on it. I’ve owned it since it has 34,000 - it’s been through our whole family and it’s making it back to me after big battery issues. I have removed and reconditioned the hybrid battery pack which included testing each battery under load, charting the rate of discharge under a 1 amp load and individually discharging and recharging each battery 3 times to recover capacity as well as balancing the whole pack (I have an awesome spreadsheet for the data if anyone wants it). Anyway, when I put it all back together, everything runs just fine for a while and then it pops up “problem” and kicks the p3000 battery code (I can’t get any sub codes using my current OBD setup). What I’m wondering is if anyone knows if the p3000 code could be a result of the 12v battery needing to be replaced. If I work on this car for and length of time, I have to jump the battery or recharge it (even if all the doors/hatch are shut the whole time). It has a 1/2 tank of gas In it. Does anyone have any input?
     
  2. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    welcome!

    you definitely have a 12v problem, but idk if it is the battery or something draining it.

    how old is it? why not get a free load test?
     
  3. PriusCamper

    PriusCamper Senior Member

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    It's very rare that a 12v would only trigger that specific code and if it did it would be an anomaly and not something that could be replicated. But if the 12v is old and cant past this load test, replace to avoid those concerns.

    --Please post your spread sheet, I'd like to see how it looks / compare them to the ones I make, maybe I might notice something?

    --As for OBD2, the Dr. Prius app reads many of the sub-codes...

    --Check your voltage sensing wires for corrosion, especially where it plugs into hybrid battery ECU

    --Sometimes, if you don't have expensive diagnostic gear you just need to keep driving the car and keep clearing the P3000 code until the bad cell in the pack deteriorates to the point it can be easily detected. I've my friend's pack in my car right now with that problem and every 50 miles or so it points to a different bad module than before, so I just keep clearing and waiting because it's a sad day when you pull a pack and you can't find the bad module with load testing because it's not bad enough yet.

    --Buy a Mini-VCI with cracked Toyota Techstream software and put it on an old Windows computer that has no internet access and you'll get way more data to help find the problem.
     
  4. Jeremy Brown

    Jeremy Brown New Member

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    ----USA----
    Those is super helpful posts! Thanks for taking the time. By the time I saw the post I just went ahead and bought a new 12v battery and installed it. I started it up and drove 1/4 mile away (unfortunately, it was downhill) and it kicked the p0A78, p0A90 and p0a94 codes. I guess I didn’t get the p3000 code - that’s an upside LOL. The downside is that it won’t move (D or R) and its stuck on the road. UGh!
     
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  5. PriusCamper

    PriusCamper Senior Member

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    Perhaps something didn't get reconnected correctly? Try disconnecting the battery for 5 minutes so the codes clear and then make sure all the additional gear on top of the 12v is properly connected. If it were me I'd be way more stressed about the new codes than the old ones. Though last Summer I had those codes come up as anomalies when a battery pack had a major failure and turned out I wasted my time and money buying a replacement inverter, as well as fear the transaxle failed only to find burned up stuff in the battery pack switches and once that was fixed the anomalous codes never returned.
     
  6. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    check the inverter pump