Heating solutions

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(maggieddd @ Feb 9 2007, 12:15 PM) [snapback]387643[/snapback]</div>

I haven't replied because I don't know much about hot air furnaces. I did replace mine back in 2004, but we also moved it to the attic, had to add some access, and put in isolation mounts (its very quiet!), and the cost was $2617. Because of where we live, and the fact that we rarely have it on, I just went with the 80% efficient unit (a Carrier 58STX090). It was out for 2 months in winter before I replaced it (some of the quotes were outrageous, and truth be told, we could bundle up and not suffer from the mild winters).

It does have a two speed fan, and yours may also. On low speed, you can hardly hear the thing at all. If the temp drops too low, then the fan switches to high speed, which is a bit noisier. You might check your paperwork and see if yours has the same option. My old furnace was also two speed, but it had it wired for high speed only.

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(fshagan @ Feb 9 2007, 02:12 AM) [snapback]387318[/snapback]</div>

Converted to degrees F:

Boiler output: 128 F
Boiler return at manifold: 73 F
Random checks on slab: varies from highs of 96 to lows of 81

The condensate really gushes out the tubing into the drain

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(maggieddd @ Feb 9 2007, 04:15 PM) [snapback]387643[/snapback]</div>

Maggie

I really hate to say this, but it would be impossibly expensive to retrofit just for the sake of getting a system you can't hear run. The house I used to have in the Burbs had a Bryant with a electronic variable speed fan. The system used a PID loop - with an outdoor temp probe - to determine fire rate (Low or High) and furnace fan rate.

I have the same system, actually the second generation, at my hobby farm. The vast majority of the time, the only way I know it's heating is to feel a register or to go into the basement and look at the peephole to see the blue flames inside.

One other advantage of this system: it has a "soft start" fan. When it does start, and when it changes speed, it smoothly ramps up and ramps down. Systems that immediately start at their speed, say medium, can make the sheetmetal go "bang" or "boom."

It's also *very* important to use flexible collars on the ductwork to isolate the sheetmetal. That tends to get rid of almost all the resonance.

I did price my systems different ways. At least for Bryant, the difference from a "plain" condensing furnace to my top-of-the-line Evolution Plus 90i was around $3,200.

Purely on a cost bais, ROI that is, it simply isn't worth it. I could easily afford the difference, and to me the "touchy feely" of a networked system with creature comforts, allowed me to "justify" it. I was lucky enough to work with a HVAC person who understood what I wanted and - more importantly - understood my background so went into great technical detail with me.

I liked that.

jay

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(barbaram @ Feb 11 2007, 04:05 AM) [snapback]388364[/snapback]</div>

Maggie owns the house. Apparently the first level is occupied by her father in law, the second is unfinished or not lived in (Except for kitty), and the third or top floor is where she lives.

Window film, like the 3M stuff available at Menards and Home Depot, does work wonders. I actually use a thicker commercial product at my hobby farm, the windows on the North side I never open anyway I leave it on year round.

Even my premium tri-panes are only rated R7. A regular 2x4 stud wall is around R-12. So every little bit helps and I'm cheap to boot.

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(jayman @ Feb 11 2007, 09:12 PM) [snapback]388742[/snapback]</div>

He is getting the most out of his high efficiency boiler, then. He's probably in the 95 - 98% efficient range. I'm a little surprised that he is just putting out 128F, but with his premium construction, he evidently is getting the heat into the house OK. He definitely did it right!

 

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