Blown up Battery Cell

I guess you'll get no answers .

 

Yes, It's not common but it happens. Check the two modules next to the topless one. Sometimes they get cracked from the force of the pop.

This module popped up close and personal.


The result was a cheap lesson.

 

Some posters who get a high volt ground fault nag and then clear the codes by unhooking the 12 volt battery and then continue to drive on that bad battery report loud bangs in that battery box while driving. This is the loud bang.

So that battery may already have cracked cells and corrosion that will conduct high voltage to ground.

 

It is a really good idea to charge the whole pack once its all back together and that will balance the whole pack. Takes about 2 days and requires a 200 volt dc charger like Prolong that lots of us use. The prolong charger has a clamped output at 350 milliamps so as not to heat up the pack but it does take hours and hours at the low charge level. But really helps. battery loves that.

The thing that gets everyone is that damn safety plug. Everyone forgets the last step. You push the plug in then flip up the lever than and here's the last step push the lever you just flipped up now push it straight down till it clicks. Now its locked.

I would check the innards of the battery ecu pcb its in the metal can on the end thats on its side. Take that ECU out and give it a real close look and see if there's any corrosion in the bottom of the plugs or on the male plug pins. Look closely. Then check the circuit board itself for any corrosion around the plug area. many many reports of corroded ecu plugs and board.

Clean the circuit board with acetone and a wooden q tip if there;'s any smutz on it. would apply some synthetic grease to the plugs to prohibit corrosion.

 

Not knowing how to test a fuse suggests that you do not have the skills needed to safely work on high voltage batteries.

 

When the hybrid battery is failing and it takes along time to fail but gradually decreases in power output over the years so slowly you don't miss it you just push on the gas pedal harder to make up for it that gradual decrease in the battery auxiliary power. The whole power contribution falls to the motor only.
That's really tough on the engine. Till in its last stage of battery failure you have to almost have to floor it get anywhere. So the engine has been struggling in a solo fight for a long time so it tends to get tired and unhappy along with the hybrid battery. Without good battery power the car is a very under powered little go kart.

Engine requires hyper vigilance on the fluids during battery failure and the beating its going to take. Make sure oil is clean and high quality and keep it at the full line. If lots of miles on the plugs that will show up as poor engine performance till they get real bad and start throwing missfires.

 

You can disconnect the 12v battery negative for a few seconds and it'll delete most codes. But to really fix your car, you'll need a proper scanner that can read Prius codes.

 

Did you lock the orange interlock on the HV battery? The last step is to press the orange interlock downward and it'll lock into place. If you don't lock it, it will explain the triangle

 

... and removing the safety interlock in this instance does not achieve anything.

 

I have seen the CEL on along with the "master warning light" when there were faults in other systems (but no codes in the ECM).

Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.

 

Did you plug in all the connectors to the HV battery? 3 separate connectors to the ECU/Relays area

 

It may seem like it would be a lot of fuss to get access to a suitable scan tool and find out what codes the car is reporting ... but from what I'm seeing here, it's probably only going to be more fuss to try to find the issue without.