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Oil Catch Can, Eliminate that knock!

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Care, Maintenance & Troubleshooting' started by danlatu, May 22, 2017.

  1. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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  2. scona

    scona Active Member

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    You need something in the bottle to make it work, right now it is just flowing right through without collecting anything.
     
  3. capolihu

    capolihu Member

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    Correct. They gave me the wrong one. Second time I got the 37010
     
  4. StarCaller

    StarCaller Senior Member

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    either way there should be at least a little bit of fluid collected; better check the way you routed/made your connections; something's not right here /
     
  5. ASRDogman

    ASRDogman Senior Member

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    If you bring your old gaskets with you, you can match them to the ones from Toyota.
    I used the diagram and wrote down the part numbers.
     
  6. vzihome

    vzihome New Member

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    Either way if my intake is getting full my bottle should be full, I’m confused as where the oil is coming from.
     
  7. vzihome

    vzihome New Member

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    Yes I agree, I traced the lines and they look like they are right. Pcv to bottle and bottle into intake. All other lines are just coolant lines, correct?
     
  8. scona

    scona Active Member

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    It sounds like your connections are right. If you pinch the "IN" line closed when the engine is running you should get an increase or
    change in rpm. Release and the rpm should drop. That should tell you the PCV valve is working and that your hose routing is correct.
    Here is a video of a catch can(glass jar) and what it looks like when the engine is running. The "stuff" enters and leaves the jar very fast
    and leaves almost no trace behind. You need some type of filter to "catch" and make the oil de-mist and stay in the jar. I use stainless steel scrub pads and they work quite well. You have to shake the pads to make sure there are no loose pieces that might float and get sucked into the engine. Here is the url that gives a better idea what is happening. Hope this makes better sense now.

     
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  9. Cban

    Cban Junior Member

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    I have a 2010 prius with about 160,000 miles on it. Unfortunately I was ignorant about the Prius' infamous EGR problems to do preventative maintenance in time. So it came to point where a couple weeks ago my engine started shaking violently, smelled something burning and then threw P0401 and P0302 codes. Sure enough the EGR valve was stuck open because of carbon build up. I am currently in the process of cleaning everything out (egr cooler, egr valve, new spark plugs, manifold, throttle body,coolant flush, map/maf sensor cleaning, and replace the pcv valve with the install of a OCC. There was quite a bit of oil sludge build up in the manifold and a decent amount of oil in the throttle. I'm just worried that my efforts might be too late and that the head gasket might be blown with how bad the engine was shaking, the burnt smell and the misfire code. There was no other signs of blown gasket as far as low coolant levels or milky build up in oil reservoir. I've just became paranoid after I read annecdotal stories on other threads about people doing the work and it ultimately was more severe damage. Just wondering if anyone else has heard or had any experience with that?
     

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  10. Grit

    Grit Senior Member

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    Hope the egr cleaning gets you back humming on the road. How many miles did you drive it yourself when you bought it and at what mile mark did you last change the spark plugs?
     
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  11. Cban

    Cban Junior Member

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    I honestly can't remember how many miles I put on it but if I had to guess it was between 60 to 80 thousand miles. This was the first spark plug change I did myself on it was this week. It was negligence on my part, I should have the very least checked them when I first got the car because I'm pretty sure the old spark plugs I removed were the factory ones. I'm hoping the misfire is solely as a result of bad plugs.
     

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  12. Rebound

    Rebound Senior Member

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    I wouldn’t worry about it. You did what’s needed to clear the P0401 and P0302. As long as you removed the entire EGR cooler and got it clean, and you cleaned out all the intake manifold passages (there are some very small ones which block easily), you engine should be healthy again.

    Could it be worse? Could something bad happen? Yes, but what’s the point of worrying about it? Won’t do you any good.
     
    #1532 Rebound, Dec 9, 2019
    Last edited: Dec 9, 2019
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  13. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    @Cban, all you can do is finish the clean up, see how it goes. (y)

    I would do the Oil Catch Can install too, while the intake's off. You can do it later, but it's easier with intake off, and it'll keep that "swimming pool" from coming back.
     
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  14. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    I had my oil catch can (Moroso Air-Oil Separator 85474) off, did a clean-out, about a year back. I was looking just now at some pics I took before cleaning, and I get the sense some oil vapour may be getting through the can, and there's maybe room for improvement. In the following pics the flow direction is left to right. There's a fair amount of build up on the right side of the baffle, and the right side chamber, while not as oily as the left side, is far from clean.

    upload_2019-12-15_10-48-1.png
    upload_2019-12-15_10-48-29.png
    upload_2019-12-15_10-48-55.png
    upload_2019-12-15_10-49-29.png

    Accordingly, I'm thinking to try adding a baffle. I've fab'd it and installed on my spare (yes, I know...):

    IMG_1637.JPG IMG_1638.JPG
    (Flow direction left-to-right, per usual.)

    One caveat: you do not want this baffle to go excessively deep; if the level of the captured oil in the can get to the lower edge of the baffle, the PCV flow is effectively blocked.

    This baffle protrudes roughly an inch, and I'm doing drains twice yearly in conjunction with oil changes. The spring drain is the most, and currently only about 80~90 cc, so lots of head-room.

    I'm hoping this'll encourage more oil down to the bottom, instead of just U-turning once it exits the stock upstream side.
     
    #1534 Mendel Leisk, Dec 15, 2019
    Last edited: Dec 15, 2019
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  15. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    Screwed back together I see the baffle does go pretty deep. I put another crease in it, curled it a bit more. The object is to swirl that incoming air, condense oil vapours more, and generally discourage it from short-cutting into the exit side.
     
  16. hotelprisoner

    hotelprisoner Member

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    For sure you’re not capturing all you can. My Mishimoto Compact Baffled can (3 oz) must be emptied every couple of weeks minimum if I’m driving a lot in the cold. When I first installed it, I did find it full on occasion before getting a handle on its catch rate. In the summer, hardly anything like everyone else.


    iPhone ?
     
  17. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    Could be a combinations of reasons:

    1. As you say, efficiency of the can. That said, I think the Moroso is no slouch. On ours the intake manifold used to have an 1/8" or more pool at the bottom, all the time. Now it's more or less dry, albeit "shiny".

    2. Weather. West coast Coquitlam, it's currently +3C, whereas TO is showing -4.

    3. Amount of driving, not just time. We're only putting about 6~7K kms per year on the car.

    4. Accumulated miles on the odometer. With some higher miles cars, owners who've put on OCC's report unusually rapid fill up. I'm not sure what all the factors are.

    But anyway, judging from the pics I posted above, I do believe some amount of oil is getting through, and hopefully my tweak will help with that. I'm tempted to drill a few holes through the vertical leg, close to the top, just in case. Or trim the ends of that vertical leg back a bit, to leave a little more opening, for "insurance", in case the level does get up that high.

    In this comparison video, the Moroso can was less efficient than RX Performance. Interesting watch:



    When they're installed in series, the Moroso scavenged near zero. The other way around, the RX Performance scavenged about 30~40 percent, that had gotten past the Moroso.
     
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  18. Bay Stater

    Bay Stater Senior Member

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    In my case yes. Didn't really design it that way.:whistle:
     
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  19. Raytheeagle

    Raytheeagle Senior Member

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    Another option would be to drill some holes into the baffle you’ve made;).

    That way if the liquid collects above the lowest portion of the baffle, you don’t have issues of vacuum flow:cool:.

    3 gold plated catch cans, I’m surprised Mrs. Mendel hasn’t had you sleeping in the shrine next to the PIP rims:love:.

    She must value your other redeeming qualities .
     
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  20. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    Yeah i did mention to put some holes in it, for insurance. I opted (with my prototype baffle), to just trim the ends off it. So even if the level right up there, there's maybe 1/4" air space, around either end of the baffle.

    IMG_1640.JPG

    Hold on, it's only two, lol. My son was contemplating an OCC, but got cold feet. Maybe for the best. Anyway, that's how I ended up with the second one.
     
    #1540 Mendel Leisk, Dec 16, 2019
    Last edited: Dec 16, 2019
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