My official Prius stereo mods thread.

I decided to detail my stereo mods in a separate thread from my Prius mods thread. I fugure it's extensive enough to warrant it's own. Also, that way people who are interested in it won't have to sort through the 15 pages of the other thread to get the stereo stuff.

I have a 2006 with the JBL premium setup. While not bad for a factory system, it still leaves much to desire. Unfortunatley (or fortunately), many of the cars systems are intimately tied into the stereo system (or rather the JBL amplifier), which makes any changes pretty difficult. The amp even controls the volume, so it cannot be taken out of the loop. I did not want to compromise any of these systems (Bluetooth/Nav/etc..), or to loose the convenience of hte steering wheel controls, so I had to find a way to keep these but still be able to use top quality aftermarket gear. Toyota is not alone in this complicating this, as I have even bigger problems with my Volvo (the whole system is based on a fiber optic loop). Many other manufacturers have proprietary systems also. Fortunately since there are so many cars that are like that, there are stereo gear manufacturers that have developed ways around this.


First a list of the components:

Keeping factory head unit.
JL Audio ZR-CSi650 components for front speakers
JL Audio ZR-CSi650 components for rear speakers
JL Audio 8W7 subwoofer
JL Audio CleanSweep CL-SSI for summing front channels
JL Audio Cleansweep CL441dsp
JL Audio 300/4 amplifier for component speakers
JL Audio 250/1 amplifier for subwoofer



Here is a basic roadmap for the setup of the system:

First the SSI will be used to sum the front channels. The JBL amp splits the signal into high and low, so this unit is necessary to combine them back to one full range signal.

The SSI and dsp441 will be mounted on top of the factory amp with double sided tape. The speaker wires exiting the amp will be cut and directed into the two. First the front tweeter and front woofer wires will be connected to the SSI. The rear signals are full range and will go straight to the dsp441. The summed front signal will go to the dsp441.

Now the dsp 441 will adjust the equalization of the front and rear signals.This is necessary as the JBL amplifier applies a whole bunch of equalization to make up for shortcomings in the system or cars accoustics. It may seem uneccessary or even bad to do this, but trying to use this equalization with new speakers and amplifiers is just asking for bad sound. The dsp441 flattens the curve as flat as possible and then provides two pramp stereo outputs for connection to amplifiers.

The premium system also has a special speed dependant equalization (called ASL) which varies the curve based on the speed of the car. This will be disabled before the calibration.

Once the SSI and dsp441 are connected, a special calibration CD is neede for hte dsp to do it's job. I haven't listened to it, but I'm guessing it is just a pink noise signal (all frequencies played at the same level). JL also includes a new volume knob that you can use to bypass the factory volume knob to prevent any such volume based equalization. I'm still going to use the factory knob.

The dsp441 also has an auxiliary input. You use the JL volume knob to switch to and from this auxilliary input. I don't need this, as Toyota was nice enough to include an auxilliary input in the center console. Thanks Toyota!

From the 441dsp I will run RCA cable to the rear underfloor storage area. Here the two amplifiers will be mounted. The front signal will first go to the 250/1 amp. "Why is it going to the subwoofer amp first?" you may ask. Well, the 441dsp only has two outputs, and I need three (two for 300/4's front and rear inputs, and one to the 250/1 subwoofer input). THe 250/1 has a set of full range preamp outputs, and I will use these to pass the signal on to the front 300/4 inputs. THe rear RCA cables go straight to the rear inputs of the 300/4.

I did it like this as I wanted to retain the front/rear fader function. This way I can use it to get the best sound as well as turning the rear down if the kids are in the car. Don't want to bother them if they are sleeping.

The 250/1 will be set as low pass. The preamp outputs will be run in full range. I could set them to high pass, but I'm going to use the crossovers in the 300/4 instead. The sub will be mounted here, so I just need a short run of wire to the sub.

The 300/4 will use the high pass setting on the front and rear crossover. I will then run the speaker wire from here back to the factory JBL amp. These will then be spliced back to the factory harness to make the wiring eeasier. For the front I will use only one set of wires. This will run to the door where I will mount hte crossovers. Then I'll just run from the crossover to the woofer and tweeter. The rear will be similar, except there is only one set of wires that run there.

(SIDE NOTE: I'll probably appropriate the tweeter speaker wires to run to the turn signal mirrors. I'll just splice a length of wire from the turn signal to where the tweeter wires enter the door, and then just extend it a few inches from where they were connected to the tweeter into the mirror.)

The ZR component speakers will simply be mounted in the factory locations. The crossovers have a couple of tuning options, but I don't know how those will be set quite yet.

The 8W7 sub will initially just sit inside a box, but a custom made fiberglass enclosure will be made to fit into the driver's side cubby. This allows for a bigger volume than if I just used the passneger side cubby. I don't use it for anything, so the space may as well be used for something good.

Next I will sit back and listen.

That is it for now. If there are any questions I'll be glad to answer them. I plan on getting started this coming weekend. Pictures will be posted along the way.

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(mike_m @ Sep 18 2006, 05:06 PM) [snapback]321314[/snapback]</div>

I thought modding my Prius WAS my job... :huh:

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Rangerdavid @ Sep 18 2006, 09:19 PM) [snapback]321428[/snapback]</div>

I plan on making this thread very detailed. I know many peole are unhappy with the "premium" system, and it's not very easy to add aftermarket stereo stuff to cars these days. I mean Acura now has cars with DVD-Audio and Dolby Digital 5.1 systems. Talk about tough to change. ANd as I pointed out earlier, my Volvo certainly doesn;t make things very easy. Every subsystem in the car attaches to a fiber optic network. The "radio" ismerely a control panel. Every part is separate and connected to the fiber optic line. The tuner and nav system are actually in the roof, and convert their signals to optic and sends it into the system. Even the back-up snesor is attached to the fiber optic system. It's damn near impossible to do ANYTHING with it. Sure it sounds great (even has Dolby surround), but try even adding an iPod...

Anyway, enough ranting.

There will be plenty of pictures. I have like 5 gigs of online storage through my Verizon FIOS account, so I'll start putting them there and prviding links. I'm running out of space on PriusChat for uploading. Maybe Danny can spot me a few megs of storage...?

Ballpark estimate? Well, so far it's about $3500 on the gear. I'm saving about another $800 by doing the install myself. I don't remember how much the fiberglass box will cost, but I think it was about $300 or so.

I figure by the time I'm done, it'll be a good $4000 or so.

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(htmlspinnr @ Sep 18 2006, 09:32 PM) [snapback]321435[/snapback]</div>

The wires will be cut and spliced together again at the same spot, so the signal should still be there. I'm windering about hatthough, because the system mutes the music from the left side and plays the voice command. Same with the BT. The whole system mutes when a call comes in, so it must be tied in BEFORE the amp also. Anyway, I'll find out soon enough.

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(rlh @ Sep 19 2006, 03:01 AM) [snapback]321528[/snapback]</div>

Yes I thought about doing it that way, but I wanted to have a truly integrated system, instead of adding a piggyback to the factory system. The source components are actually pretty good, and I already have my iPod integrated. I see no reason to give up a perfectly good radio/6 disc changer/satellite radio/auxillliary input/iPod/etc. I also plan on installing a pair of headrest monitors and a PS2 video source. The audio will be ported into the system through the auxilliary in jack. It is all done with the controls that are already there. All integrated.

As far as the "signal processing gymnastics," it really isn't. The CleanSweep modules make it as painless as possible. The actual effort is minimal, with the physical installation being the tough part. Similar "gymnastics" are used in incorporating the steering wheel controls into the new head unit.

THis system can also be removed as easily as yours can. THe onlyplace the factory wiring is cut is near the factory amp. Instead of going from the amp to the speakers, it just goes to the Cleansweep units. Then after the amplifiers, it will be spilced right back to the same spot. Otherwise there is no modification to the factory gear. Obviously the speakers are changed, but I figured that was a given. If I wanted to return it to stock, all I need to do is pull out the CLeansweep units and reconnect the factory harness. The rest of hte gear will be mounted on a solid board in the storage area, so that will pull right out. Easy.

So you see, while it sounds quite extensive, it is really not that invasive, and is really the best and cleanest way.

Besides, I don't have to give up my little storage area under the radio!

 

So, I have started on the install. Not much so far, so I have only taken two pictures. Basically I just made a platform for the amps to be mounted to. It's a relatively thin but strong piece of laminated wood with a number of 1" wood blocks underneath to give a "crawl space". It's really more of a template for a sturdier more permanent mount I'll probably make later. The white primer paint doesn't look too glamorous, but the thing does the job. So far I've only run the +12V cable. I need to buy another distribution block to get the negatives done properly.

I plan on running the ground wires under the board and to the chassis somewhere. Also all the signal wires will be run under neath and pup up through the board near the mounting points on the amps. Trying to keep it clean.

I haven't even started the wiring yet, as I would like to shorten some of the harnesses that JL provided. There is one to connect the SSI to the 441dsp, but it's 3 feet long, and the units will actually be right next to each other. I'm going to check and see if I can dissect the plug without destroying it, or if I can get another plug. I'd rather have minimal spliced wires if possible. Anyway, this step will be thoroughly documented, so stay tuned...


Anyhow, here's the first pic!

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(NuShrike @ Sep 23 2006, 06:11 AM) [snapback]323823[/snapback]</div>

That is to be determined.

 

Well, I've done a bit more wiring. Ran the ground cables, and also wired up the RCA cables. So far nothing really hard that needs a detailed write up, but I will post a few pics soon. I hope to get this all done this weekend.

 

Stuff is really getting piled on right now. I'd be a lot happier if I had time to breathe. Obviously I have not done anything at all recently, or I would have posted some pictures...

I really want to finish this soon!

 

My energy levels have not been high enought o get out and install any more stuff. Kids, family, school, work, life has all been conspiring against me to make sure I get too little sleep! It really sucks having all these goodies sitting in my garage and not enough time and energy to get it put in. I guess I could have had hte shop do it, but I actually enjoy doing this kind of stuff, and look forwards to doing it.

Anyway, the point of this particular post is not to whine, but to go over my thoughts on sound-proofing the Prius.

After reading all the info on the web (not an exaggeration) I deceided that there is very little valid information on the web. You certainly can't rely on the manufacturers of the things to give the honest answer ("Yes, we are in fact the fourth best sound proofing medium on the market!" Yeah right). Anyway one of hte best places I've found for info on this is Sound Deadener Showdown (http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/), which seems to be fairly impartial. ANyway, it merely reinforced my own opinions about what product to use.

In my previous car, a 1999 Ford Explorer, I used around 160 sq. ft. of Dynamat Xtreme. I was VERY happy with the results, except for the price. Still, I have decided to use these products again.

I was pleased to see that they now offer many more accoustical products, some of which I was planning on using. So here is my plan on soundproofing the Prius.

Doors, floor, rear hatch: Dymanat Xtreme. One layer was enough fo rmy Explorer, so one layer should be enough here too. Plus there will be more stuff.

Floor: Dynapad over the Xtreme and under the carpet to help with road noise.

Inside doors: Dynaliner (1/4") inside part of door to cut some vibration, also one Dynaxorb square right behind each woofer.

Rear hatch: Reinforce the properties of the Xtreme with some more Dynaliner (also 1/4") in areas where sound will likely be an issue. The floor over the exhaust for instance, and wheel wells. Not complete coverage, but only certain parts.


I think this will help to create a perfect atmosphere for enjoying my music. I know there are alternatives that re cheaper than Dynamat, it's a product I've used, and I know it works. Once I've found a good thing I tend to stay there for a while.

This step of the install will probably be done later, like maybe of the holidays. For now I'll just be happy getting the stereo done.

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(2fst4u @ Oct 4 2006, 11:57 AM) [snapback]327849[/snapback]</div>

I'll ignore your immature and incredibly stupid post in the TRD thread and answer you since you post a valid question, which other may want to know also.

The short answer is space.

I use my trunk every day. I can't afford to sacrifice any space back there. The W7 series subs all require much more volume in an enclusure as compared to standard subs of the same size. The 8W7 requires 0.875 cu. ft. while any other 8" sub would require half that, some even less. The 10W7 and 12W7 require very larg enclosures. I would love to have a 13W7 in there, but that would take the entire rear hatch. Also the amplifier would overwhelm the Prius electrical system.

Next, the W7 series performs like a bigger sub. THe 13W7 will easily outperform a pair of ordinary 12s with a proper box and proper power. Likewise, an 8W7 will sound like a much bigger sub with the right volume and power. I'm using JL's recommended specifications, so it's like having a 10 or even a 12 in there. The 8W7 was reviewed by a magazine, and he got 130 dB from 250 watts. That's pretty impressive for an 8" subwoofer. It's pretty impressive for some 12" subs. Also, the interior shape of the Prius should help reinforce the soundwaves created by the sub, decreasing the need for a bigger one.

For now the 8W7 is installed in a box, and I am loosing some space. I'll just take the box out if I need room Eventually I will build (or have built) a fiberglass enclosure that will not take up any space and uses the stock cubby in the back driver's side. By making the enclosure freeform I can use all the space available and get the desired 0.875 cu. ft. Then I can have my cake and eat it too.

Finally, I got an idea from the Dynamat website on a fibeglass box they built for an Audi. They used their TacMat as the initial substrate. They lined the cavity with the TacMat, stapled on a MDF front panel, then glassed it from the inside. The TacMat then becomes an integral part of the structure. The TacMat would help to minimize any vibration transfer to the car structure and dampen the enclosure. Great idea! They also used some Dynaxorb panels on the inside to help diffuse the back pressure of the sub. I'll probably use some of these as well, but the very irregular shape will already do much to cancel out any reflections.