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Featured Dome light fuse / J6 Connector / slow battery drain

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by MozartFixerPrius, Dec 31, 2019.

  1. MozartFixerPrius

    MozartFixerPrius New Member

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    Hello to all.
    I'm new here, first post. Been reading blogs for a long time. I hope someone smarter than me can help.
    I have a 2007 Prius hatchback gen 3
    The dam car keeps dying the battery in the winter, I even attached two batteries in series for the last winter, but now I decided to solve the problem.
    I traced the problem to a dome fuse and from there to a J6 connector that have issues.
    The problem is that the J6 connector connects to 34 subsystems, and I do not have the expertise or time to take everything apart.

    I found that those 3 connectors on the picture 1 are grounded and I have no idea where they go to.



    Here are the one grounded

    Here is a back picture

    Here is the manual description, it only says j6, does not describe what each one do

    Any help is appreciated
     
  2. MozartFixerPrius

    MozartFixerPrius New Member

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    I'm sure it is the J6, because disconnecting it, the draw falls from 0.38A to 0.05A, and there is a red wire that is grounded.
     
  3. SFO

    SFO Senior Member

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    Welcome to PriusChat!!

    How many hours per week do you drive this vehicle?

    How old is your current 12v battery?
     
  4. MozartFixerPrius

    MozartFixerPrius New Member

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    Battery is 6 months old and the other is 3 months, a yellowtop. I drive about 100 Mike's per week, sometimes 350 a week. The car makes about 44.5 mph.
    I tested the charging on the battery and says 13.7 stable.
    I already tested everything else and found that connection is the culprit. It drains a stable 0.30A alone. Removing the fuse it reduces that much, to almost Zero. Removing the Cap from the J6 does the same.
    Testing the leads on the J6 shows 3 grounds.


    If only I knew what these points are would be easier.

    20191231_190015.jpg

    Wiring diagram
     

    Attached Files:

    #4 MozartFixerPrius, Dec 31, 2019
    Last edited by a moderator: Dec 31, 2019
  5. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    how many volts does it lose overnight?
     
  6. MozartFixerPrius

    MozartFixerPrius New Member

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    It is a pain to test that information, it doesn't loose enough to shut down the bat low voltage, since 0.38A or 0.4A isn't that much, but in two days does drop to 11.5V. the battery is small on Prius.

    I can calculate and estimate, 0.4A/hr * 20h = 8A, and 8A at 12v is about 96watts. But constant drop can cause battery problems, like loosing acidity.

    Anyways, treating the battery doesn't solve the problem. The solution is to find the parasitic draw, and i found where the parasitic drain is occuring, I am just not sure where it leads.
     
  7. Elektroingenieur

    Elektroingenieur Senior Member

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    I’ve discussed junction connector J6 before. I wouldn’t assume that there is anything wrong with the connector or fuse; among its other functions, J6 connects the unswitched DOME and HEV circuits to loads, such as the body ECU, door control receiver, and hybrid vehicle control ECU, that all need power when the car is off.
    There aren’t actually that many loads. In the System Circuit pages of the Electrical Wiring Diagram (more info), J6 is shown in the diagram for every system that involves the combination meter, for example, since one of its power supply connections is from the DOME fuse, via J6.
    What were the test conditions? For example, were the doors open (so the interior lights would be on), or did you have a key in the car or nearby? Have you reviewed any of the earlier threads about similar problems?
    I’m not sure how you’re testing, but it wouldn’t surprise me that you’d see low resistance to ground. If the terminals were actually grounded, though, I’d expect fuses to blow.
    This calculation is faulty. A current of 0.4 A (400 mA) at 12 V is 4.8 watts, no matter how long it continues.
     
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  8. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    Since you have the ability to measure the quiescent current flow, I suggest you look for a stuck relay in the main relay/fuse box next to the inverter, in the relay box above the engine, and in the relay/fuse box under the dashboard, driver side.
     
  9. MozartFixerPrius

    MozartFixerPrius New Member

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    thanks elektroingenieur
    I have reviewed all the answers on this forum prior to open my own blog, the decision was not lightly or lasy. Like I said I before, I tested the continuity in all the terminals and found that the terminals above mentioned are grounded to the chassis, I didn't test the resistance, perhaps I should, or I WILL and will give a response here. , meaning they are bad. If all BBB is supposed to be shorted so they are connected without a splice then one of them is shorted, and so forth.

    It is good to know that most of it are due to the combination meter. I will have to take the whole front panels to access the plug for that, so I can test.

    Test conditions are the same as any other electrical test.
    1. Doors open / close
    2. lights on / off
    3. test the amperage every time with a boy helper
    4. wait for the car to settle with all locked and amperemeter outside

    what did I find?
    1. normally I will have a 0.4 A draw constant with the key away from the car and the keyless system off
    2. removing fuse dome will reduce to 0.08A draw (acceptable?) maybe
    3. testing the J6 connector shows one of the red leads BBB is shorted to ground showing continuity or very low resistance (to be tested the resistance)
    4. I did not follow any circuit after the J6 so I cannot say what is beyond causing the issue, I guess I have to take the panel apart to find the issue.
     
  10. MozartFixerPrius

    MozartFixerPrius New Member

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    I found the issue, couldn't sleep after posting the tread.
    It is the combination cluster. I took apart the panel to that point, disconnected one of the white connectors for the cluster and the draw came down from 0.38 to 0.05A instantly.
    Now I removed the whole panel off, and I am studying what can I do to fix it or replace it.
     

    Attached Files:

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  11. MozartFixerPrius

    MozartFixerPrius New Member

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  12. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    texas hybrid batteries
     
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  13. Texas Hybrid Batteries

    Texas Hybrid Batteries Senior Member

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    I’ve seen this before. There’s a switching circuit in the combo meter that draws about 300 mA from the dome circuit. It’s only supposed to draw for about 10 seconds after the car is turned off but if the switching transistor fails it will continue to draw.

    I can tell from the picture that somebody worked on that board before. They either damaged something or didn’t realize the problem.

    We’re aware of this possible malfunction so all meters that we sell are tested for proper current draw and shut down switching operation before going out to a customer.

    I’d be happy to work with you on a repair or replacement.

    Matt
    TX Hybrid
     
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  14. edthefox5

    edthefox5 Senior Member

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    I highly recommend Texas hybrids for the win.

    On my second year of his rebuild works like a champ. Thanks Matt!
     
  15. MozartFixerPrius

    MozartFixerPrius New Member

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    Hi thanks, I will get in touch with the repair man that I hire didn't work it right. Unfortunately, I already paid to be fixed. Hope will work.

    Thanks for all so far, has been a great adventure.

    I will follow up.

    Texas hybrid battery, thanks for the info.
     
  16. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    pleasure
     
  17. *Goldfinger*

    *Goldfinger* Junior Member

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    Did you resolve this draw problem? I too have a constant parasitic draw on that circuit of 0.4A
    Regards
    David