Low voltage to traction battery relays. (11.2) , inverter pump doesn't run

sounds like a bad 12v.

 

power button opens circuit to relays, but ecu's need correct voltage. going back through this whole thread, i cannot find it.

 

Going back to your post #5, what voltage are you getting at the front jump points after the car has been sitting overnight with the hood open (so you don't have to open any of the doors and affect the voltage that way)? If you are not getting something like 12.5V or better under those conditions at the jump point, either your 12V battery is bad or, as you suggested, the cable going from the battery in the back to the front jump point may be damaged and shorting out against the car body.

 

vermin?

 

yep, either a bad connection in back, or a short on the way to the front

 

Getting a good charge at the front jump points, if it comes from a source other than the 12V battery in the back may not be sufficient, I'm not sure. FYI, at one point when going on vacation, I disconnected the negative 12V cable in the back to save the battery from dying and a couple of weeks later was able to get the car doors to unlock by hooking a jump box to the terminals in the front, allowing me to avoid crawling through the back seat to open the hatch from the inside. That is not the same as getting the car into Ready mode, however. I'm thinking that I wouldn't be able to get the car into Ready mode with the 12V battery disconnected, which might be similar to your situation if you have a bad cable.

If you are getting all the lights on the dash when you press the Power button, another possibility may be that the sensor that detects whether the brake pedal is depressed may be defective. Maybe it is not allowing the 12V to send a signal to close the contacts and engage the HV battery (but possibly it could still go to Ready mode, but just not have any power to start the ICE, again I'm not sure). Do you hear a click coming from the back when you put your foot on the brake and press the Power button, indicating that the HV battery is connecting?

 

Ok, so we have not yet eliminated that brake sensor as the source of the problem, if there is no click. Looking through the repair manual, I see a component listed as a Brake Pedal Stroke Sensor and also a Stop Light Switch. I'm guessing the Stop Light Switch would be like any you would find on a non-hybrid car, so it would probably not prevent the car from going to Ready mode if it had failed, but just out of curiosity, do your brake lights come on when you step on the brake?

So I'm focusing on the Brake Pedal Stroke Sensor and am attaching 2 pages from the manual for troubleshooting that component. On the other hand, if that has failed you should get a C1247 code and a C1393, and all the codes you reported relate to the Inverter, I believe. Is it possible your scanner is not picking up codes from the Skid Control ECU, which would throw the C1247 and the C1393?

Maybe I'm leading you down a garden path, and the problem is the Inverter all along. I'm not sure if a failed Inverter prevents you from getting to Ready mode. I'm guessing it would, but maybe someone else can weigh in on that question.

 

I should have included these pages as well.

 

Did you happen to have a chance to read/follow along with @TMR-JWAP in post #16 above, and what were the results?

Curious about the mileage and condition of the vehicle, has it ever been in a wreck?

You really a mini-vci cable w/techstream, or an OBD2 reader that can offer up the stored INFs (detail codes or subcodes).

 

ah, that's gonna be some work