2007 Camry Hybrid AC not working

It wont run the compressor without freon in the system. Self preservation

SM-G960U ?

 

The pressure held for 2 hours at -30 bars.

WOW. that would be about -441 psi, -886 inches of mercury.

I know he meant (approx) inches of mercury, but just thinking of what would happen if we could really achieve that. With perfect vacuum being 29.92 inches, would the entire AC system crush down to the size of a brick?

and x2 about "no refrigerant = no run" ..operation is interlocked with the pressure switch.

Force it to run=you'll be buying another compressor

Give me a couple minutes and I'll see what's in the repair manual that may help you.
Also be aware, I've seen several instances of people spending a lot of money on AC systems only to find out it wasn't working because the Inverter Cooling Water Pump was bad. An early sign of that pump failing is the AC is acting stupid due to the inverter temps acting stupid.

 

Yes the Freon will go in without it working you just have to know what you’re doing

Here is a video I made charging a Honda in 30 seconds Without starting to compressor

 

No , the compressor was not running.
You should at least be able to get some vapor pressure into the system if you cannot get anything at all into the system that means your valves are incorrectly installed on the fittings not depressing the Schrader valves.
As soon as you have roughly over 42 or 44 psi of pressure that’s enough to close the safety switches to engage the compressor if it is receiving the command.

 

Yes sometimes Prius is Schrader valves have a problem leaking under vacuum and you should not recharge them once they do that because you have air inside the system does not do well with the oil in the moisture that was in the air mixed with the refrigerant.
Well if that’s the case and there is a sucking hissing sound at the Schrader valve when you removed your couplings that definitely tells you you did not get refrigerant inside the system.
Are you using the little cans with adapter. Try this next time.

1: preformance vacuum again because you got air into the system.

2: when you’re at the end of your vacuum procedure before turning off the pump, unscrew your high side and low side fittings but do not disconnect them. What you’re doing is isolating your refrigerant system from your hoses I’m trying to find out why refrigerant pressure did not make it through your gauge hose service valve fittings through the Schrader valves and into the system.
3: if you’re using a gauge set that only has three hoses. High side red, low side blue, vacuum and refrigerant hose yellow center.
With the vacuum pump still in operation close your low side and your high side gauge valves. If you have the adapter or a shut off at the end of the yellow hose connected to your center yellow vacuum hose if it’s manual close it you should have a 6 inch piece of hose with a manual shut off valve. If not that means you just have a open hose in that you lose the vacuum when you disconnect it from the vacuum pump.
4: Connect your vacuum hose to your can. Open a little bit the yellow hose attached to your gauges. Now cracking open your refrigerant can a little, bleed a little bit vapor refrigerant in the hose, it will quickly hiss out the other end. Tighten the end at the gauges.
5: now with both high and low handles In the closed position invert to your refrigerant can so you have liquid upside down and open it up it will fill your yellow refrigerant charging line in the center with liquid refrigerant and be stopped at the two handles because they are closed.
6: now with the refrigerant can still upside down in the liquid refrigerant position open up the high side gauge red handle valve this will release refrigerant up to the fitting end but will not go past that because earlier you have unscrewed it but left it in place.
7: now this is just for a test so everything is filled with liquid refrigerant all the way up to the red high side service valve up the red hose through the gauges down the yellow refrigerant charging hose to your Cantap.
8: Close the valve on your refrigerant can you have now trapped all the refrigerant in your gauges.
9: now thread down to fitting on your high side refrigerant gauge you should hear a hissing or swishing sound as the liquid refrigerant in your gauges and hoses enters the system that was under a vacuum.
If it did you may now have over 40+ psi of refrigerant in your system if so that would be enough to engage any safety switches for low pressure safety to engage to compressor. If you’re not around 50 psi open up your refrigerant can to release more liquid refrigerant into the high side service port until you’re above 50 psi.
If everything went as planned you have several ounces of refrigerant in your system enough for pressurization and testing.
If there is no sound and no refrigerant movement out of your gauges when you turn down the high side read service valve fitting then you have a problem with your fitting or the way it is connected.

 

Yes if you can easily get the same Schrader valve. They have been known to have this vacuum leaking issue I believe there was even a wright up possibly in one M.A.C.S ( Mobile air-conditioning society Worldwide) technical newspaper pamphlets
https://www.macsw.org//web/MACS

I’m curious just for sadistical research purpose. Are you one using a set of refrigerant gages you purchase from the Internet or big box store auto parts store?.
And I cannot remember from reading your post above it’s been too long. Where are you using cans of pure refrigerant with no additives? or were you using cans of refrigerant that have many additives like leak sealant plus dye plus some super cool magic wonder mystical lubricant or cooling agent ?.
And if you were using a set of refrigerant manifold gauges my other question are the seals at the end of the hoses that you screw in your R134 service adapters. Do they have a kind of hard white plastic seal? located inside the end of the hose or is it a softer black rubber seal?
Another question do you have a shut off valve on the center refrigerant and vacuum hose located within the last 12 to 6 inches at the end of the hose?
Here’s a test you can perform if you have a shut off valve at your refrigerant middle third hose.
Attach your refrigerant manifold gauge set to your vacuum pump let it run for one or two hours and shut off the valve at the end of your refrigerant hose. Now let it sit overnight and with a pencil or ink pen mark down on the clear lens exactly where your needle is resting under vacuum.
Let it sit overnight and the next morning when you wake up it should still be at the same line that you wrote from the previous day.
Here’s another test you can perform kind a like a physics experiment.
Fill your gauges up with refrigerant out of your can and then close the valve at the end of your house. Perform this procedure in one of these two conditions to get the most extreme result that you can see clearly.
1: with the can and gauge is out in your garage in the cold morning after sitting all night whether it be 30° or 40° in the early morning hours fill up your refrigerant gages with some refrigerant from your Cantap.
2: now if weather permitting and the temperature raises to 60 or 70° take note of the pressure change. Compared to the early morning cold hours. Or bring it in your house where you may have the heater on at 70° or 75° let your gauges sit for several hours and watch the pressure rise.
And you could put the gauges back out in the garage and watch the pressure fall even though your gauges are full of refrigerant.
I get a kick out of mechanics or service writers or service managers or owners of a shop who say when they hook up a set of gauges to a car they could tell right away if the system is full or empty by the pressure???... LOL
Either they have an IQ lower than three times lower then that of Homer Simpson or they are a better shyster a scammer a snake and mirrors con artist downright lying thief then Bernie Madoff.

 

I got a kick and a laugh when I opened up that file on diagnosing electric hybrid system. The very first page the very first photo drawing. That charging cylinder they show in the picture is from when I was a kid in the 1970s working with my father that was a refrigerant charging cylinder that used a somewhat accurate thermometer to actually measure the temperature of the refrigerant in the cylinder and it had a heater that you plugged into the wall to Aid charging. It worked on the gas pressure laws that a particular pure refrigerant at a particular temperature had a very exact volume and it had a graduated cylinder made out of a clear glass that had markings and numbers that correlated with a volume of a refrigerant and you would match it to the temperature of the refrigerant and it would tell you how many pounds you had based on temperature and physical volume. I still have one of these in my garage I bought it when I was about 17 years old.