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Brake actuator repair new codes P0138, 1203 and 1345. Engine running rough

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by Jerrid Burke, Feb 16, 2020.

  1. Jerrid Burke

    Jerrid Burke Junior Member

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    Hello prius people, I own a 2004 Pruis with 266k miles. I had this car for 9 years only having to replace the water pump until now. I recently replaced the ABS actuator. I was having the classic symptoms all the abs brake and traction lights on along with a high pitched alarm when brake pressure was lost. I took it to precision auto tune and they ran a diagnostic and confirmed it was my actuator. Being quoted parts and labor of 2500 to 3000 I decided to take it on myself.These are the codes the mechanic found prius codes 1.jpg


    I bought a used actuator off ebay and installed it yesterday. I borrowed the techstream software from a friend and attempted to do the brake bleed. The software took me through the bleeding of the front brakes but kept failing for the rear. I continued to bleed the rear brakes the same though. The brakes work fine now but my engine is running rough and I'm getting different codes. These are the codes I'm getting now Prius codes 2.jpg

    I've rechecked all my connections and everything seems to be connected. I made sure the HV disconnect in the truck was properly reconnected. One thing to mention is my battery died in approximately 10 minutes after I turned the car on to do the brake bleeding procedure after the install and I'm not sure why. I was able to start it fine this morning. Another possible important piece of information is that I felt like is was running abnormally on the way to work before the repair. It felt like it was kind of skipping but not near as bad as it is now after the repair however I checked the codes before the repair and there was nothing new. Any help would be greatly appreciated! The wife is trying to get me to buy another car but I'm not ready to give up just yet! Hopefully I gave enough information
     
    #1 Jerrid Burke, Feb 16, 2020
    Last edited: Feb 16, 2020
  2. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    You've got a couple engine misfire codes there that I'd be inclined to focus on first.

    My first thought would have been did you knock anything fuel- or ignition-related without meaning to as you did the actuator replacement. But if it felt like some misfiring was developing before you did the brake work, maybe there just happens to be a fuel, spark, or compression issue that was developing anyway, and the timing was coincidental with the brake work.
     
  3. Raytheeagle

    Raytheeagle Senior Member

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    Have you clicked on the snowflake icon to get more information on the P0138 code?

    Since your engine is running rough, I'd look at that a bit more and once you get the INF code there, it'll help with next steps.

    Good luck and keep us posted(y).
     
    SFO likes this.
  4. Jerrid Burke

    Jerrid Burke Junior Member

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    I went back and looked at the diagnostics that I ran the day before the actuator install. It actually had already the threw the code P0138
    20200216_215104.jpg

    This next was ran right after I completed the install, bled the brakes and cleared the old codes. It was running rough at this point
    20200216_215339.jpg

    I ran it again this morning when I got home after the check engine light came on during the commute. The car was running rough and the had milage was bad.

    20200216_233002.jpg

    I know two of them are misfiring codes which makes sense however it is still misfiring and those codes are gone. Below is the latest diagnostic I ran
    20200216_220630.jpg

    I'm just going to go with the misfiring codes and investigate further down that avenue. I suppose it could be a coincidental separate issue. On a side note I also had the battery checked to make sure it was a good battery and it was. Thanks for taking the time to reply!
     

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  5. Jerrid Burke

    Jerrid Burke Junior Member

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    I did click on that but I can't remember exactly what it said. I do remember it mentioning misfiring. I'm going to investigate further down that avenue. Thanks for the reply!
     
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  6. Jerrid Burke

    Jerrid Burke Junior Member

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    Also where do y'all think I should start as far as replacing parts? If two cylinders went bad at the same time I would think it's something in common with them that caused the issue? I'm not much more than a novice when it comes to knowledge of exactly how engines work. I have an overall idea and can understand it when it's explained. I've been able to fix a fair amount of issues just by reading threads and watching videos but I'm not sure where to start trying to diagnose the problem. Reading at the threads people seem to be all over the place on where to start.
     
  7. Raytheeagle

    Raytheeagle Senior Member

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    Finding the "INF" code will be a good start to understanding why your Prius is displaying the codes;).

    Good luck and keep us posted(y).
     
    Jerrid Burke likes this.
  8. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    Engine misfire diagnosis pretty much comes down to confirming compression, fuel, and spark, and there are modern tools that make it easier, but it's mostly an old-school process that hybridness doesn't change much.
     
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  9. Jerrid Burke

    Jerrid Burke Junior Member

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    Thanks for the replies. It ended up being a complete coincidence that the car was running terrible right after the actuator install. The check engine light came on on the way home from work. I checked the codes when I got home and they read P0300 0301 0302. I removed the spark plugs to find cylinder 1 and 2 plugs in bad shape and cylinder 3 and 4 plugs with oil residue. I remove the valve cover and found that the gasket was very hard and brittle. Replaced all four spark plugs and one ignition coil. The car is running great!
     
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  10. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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  11. Jerrid Burke

    Jerrid Burke Junior Member

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    I'm still persistently getting error code c1345 and occasionally c1203. I use techstream to bleed the brakes but I never could get to the process because it kept losing communication. I took it to precision Auto tune and have them bleed the brakes electronically. They weren't able to get the c1345 code to clear either after bleeding the brakes. I tried again with my own techstream program. I went through the whole procedure. I cleared the memory and then performed the calibration. The ABS and VSC lights blink rapidly but they stopped about halfway through the procedure and they're supposed to blink all the way through from my research. Also the brake light does not blink at all.

    From my reading it says that the test will fail if the battery voltage is low or if the actuator temperature is high. I can't find those parameters anywhere though. My battery voltage reads 12.2v

    They told me it's possible that the ECU is bad because of the occasional code c1203. It's also possible that the use actuator unit is faulty. Of course being a used actuator it was a gamble.

    Should I try to replace the ECU even though the code is not always present and it's a low failure part? It seems labor-intensive.

    Any other thoughts or suggestions will be appreciated! I'm almost ready to give up on this car and cut my losses.

    P.s the brakes seem to work fine besides not braking smoothly towards the end of the braking process