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Heater core? Sloshing sound

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Main Forum' started by acarapella, Mar 6, 2020.

  1. acarapella

    acarapella Junior Member

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    Hey all

    so I want to inspect my heater core. I sloshes when I start the car and the engine cycles. Bled it (ran 30 mins in maintenance mode with rad cap off and bleeder open and almost weeping) I also purged the hot water storage can (jumped relay) but I still get a slosh. I think it’s the heater core. I watched a video on removing the upper each to service the instruments. Will they reveal the core?

    thanks
     
    #1 acarapella, Mar 6, 2020
  2. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    Can't think of any explanation for a slosh other than air in there.
     
    #2 ChapmanF, Mar 6, 2020
  3. Christov Tenn

    Christov Tenn Junior Member

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    In my 2008, the sloshing I heard was d/t rainwater accumulating under the 12 volt battery and, to a lesser degree, under the spare tire. The water was leaking into the cargo area under the leftside roof trim strip where roof panel meets body panel. Got it fixed, water removed and no more sloshing sound. When I heard the sound, it was difficult to tell from where in the cabin the sound emanated.
     
    #3 Christov Tenn, Mar 7, 2020
    Last edited: Mar 7, 2020
  4. richard203

    richard203 Member

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    when i first got the prius i heard the slashing noise from the dash when i start the car up. i drained all the coolant radiator,resivor tank, and the inverter coolant. i used the funnel for the radiator and opened the breaher on the radiator. i putted a fish tank hose from the inverter bleeder screw to the inverter reservior. i waited for the radiator breather have constant flow of coolant coming out then i close the breather. for the inverter i waited till it have constant flow going through the fish hose no air in the hose only coolant coming out then i tighten the screw. i waited till the radiator fan kicks in and then i turn the heater to full blast and wait mybe 10 min and then i take the funnel out. after that ii did not hear any more slashing sound in the dash when i start the car. oh ya the car needs to be in maintince mode when doing the bleeding air.
     
    #4 richard203, Mar 7, 2020
  5. acarapella

    acarapella Junior Member

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    Thanks all. That’s a way more thorough than how I did it. I’ll try that.

    christov yea that’s a pain. The welds I’m the top outer corners of the roof/c pillar where the hatch sits crack. Silicon like you’d use on a window or skylight if a quick fix is needed.

    a 1/6” hole in the drain plug is not a bad idea either.
     
    #5 acarapella, Mar 7, 2020
  6. acarapella

    acarapella Junior Member

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    But say I do have a leaking core... is it right there under the dash? Watched some guy remove the dash to repair the digital display.

    The sketchy part was removing the airbag connector. I would have to remove the 12v battery cables for that. I’m sure there are implications that go along with that

    The only work I’ve ever done with the heater core was very easy. My 1950 Chevy sedan came with a fresh air heater… That is, ductwork bringing air from the front of the car into the cabin, and right in the middle of the thing was the heater core… Right there under the hood easy to get to. When I put a V-8 in the car, there was no longer room for this device, so I re-created it using the rear heater core for a Kia minivan… The thought of dealing with a heater core in a car like the Prius is terrifying… Even after replacing it, how would one be sure he got all the coolant cleaned up
     
    #6 acarapella, Mar 7, 2020
  7. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    If you had a leaking core, you would have coolant leaking out somewhere. (Often, the sign is it leaks out as sweet-smelling mist/vapor and fogs your windows.)

    And yes, that would not be a good day, because that article is very well buried in the dash.

    But if you just have sloshing noises (only when coolant is being pumped, right? Engine is running, or engine stopped but heat is on and running its own pump), you probably just need the air out, following the bleed steps in the manual.

    The inverter coolant loop is entirely separate, and I wouldn't see any particular reason to fuss with that just because of air in the engine loop.
     
    #7 ChapmanF, Mar 7, 2020
  8. acarapella

    acarapella Junior Member

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    Still digging into it. HOPING for a water pump or less. No head gasket or heater core. I’ll report back. Thanks all ;) I appreciate all of you and your responses
     
    #8 acarapella, Mar 7, 2020
  9. acarapella

    acarapella Junior Member

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    Well, today I checked things out. I was going to drop a scope in the engine and see if there was coolant in there, but decided not too. Started very smooth. Sometimes it shakes a bit when it starts. Anyway, found a drip coming from the hose connecting the coolant valve and reserve tank in the lower driver side bumper corner. Fixed that (I think - I’ll double check tomorrow) and bled the system. The car sat for maybe 5 hours and I just drove it. Got a little of that sloshing sound. Very discouraged :(
     
    #9 acarapella, Mar 8, 2020
  10. acarapella

    acarapella Junior Member

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    Fixed :)

    Coolant 3 way valve had a weak hose clamp. There was a dribble. Fixed it and burped. 6+ cold starts with no noise
     
    #10 acarapella, Mar 10, 2020
    Christov Tenn and Raytheeagle like this.
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