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intermittent fault

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Care, Maintenance & Troubleshooting' started by Simtronic, May 24, 2020.

  1. Simtronic

    Simtronic Active Member

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    My friend has a 2010 Prius with 130k on it. Sometimes it seems to stop charging the battery, acceleration is hesitant and occasionally it just revs up. This carries on until the hybrid warning light comes on and it comes to a stop. Turn it off and everything comes back to normal and the battery charges again. I have used my OBD torque app on it, no faults shown though it is probably a code that is not read by this app. has anyone had anything like it? it can go for a couple of weeks without a fault or every other day. I am trying to help but it seems beyond me at the moment
     
  2. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    yeah, i think you're going to need tech stream. it could probably be most anything.

    first suspect on a 2010 is the egr circuit if they are so equipped in europe
     
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  3. Simtronic

    Simtronic Active Member

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    Thanks Bisco Yes they have all the same emission control gear and I have been informed the egr and cooler haven't been touched yet so I might be giving a hand there. I will update what we find
     
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  4. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    130k miles I assume? Second the EGR (and intake manifold) needing attention.
     
  5. Simtronic

    Simtronic Active Member

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    Thanks I will show him how today and tell about PC he will definately have a go at the maintenance but not sure he will want to join our chat
     
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  6. Simtronic

    Simtronic Active Member

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    removed and cleaned egr, egr cooler and intake manifold going to get some coolant tomorrow and go for a start. I tried to upload photos but they are too big from my new phone :-(
     
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  7. Simtronic

    Simtronic Active Member

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    Yes 130k Miles, I forget some countries use kilometers
     
  8. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    how bad was it?
     
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  9. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    If you were intending to change coolant anyways, all well and good, but if it was just incidental spillage, a few tips in the following (points 1 and 2, towards the end):

    The simplest way to see where you're at, is to check the degree of carbon build up in the EGR pipe, a stainless steel connecting pipe between the EGR valve and intake manifold. Watch @NutzAboutBolts video #16 here:

    Nutz About Bolts Prius Maintenance Videos | PriusChat

    Two or three other videos linked there too, for the full cleaning of the intake manifold, full EGR clean, and Oil Catch Can install.

    Good thread:

    EGR & Intake Manifold Clean Results | PriusChat

    Another:

    Oil Catch Can, Eliminate that knock! | PriusChat

    Some tools worth having:

    E8 Torx socket (mandatory)
    E6 Torx socket (optional, but good to have, to remove the throttle body studs from intake manifold)
    3/8" ratchet wrench, regular and long handle, flex head, you can never have enough (or 1/2 plus reducer)
    1/4" ratchet wrench, or 3/8" to 1/4" reducer
    Ratchet extensions: you can never have enough
    Long needle nose piers, straight and bent tip
    Ratcheting 12mm box wrench (optional, but makes disconnection of the EGR cooler from exhaust easier)
    Torque wrench (3/8" and 1/4" both good to have)
    Floor jack and safety stands (or ramps): basically some method to raise front, if you need to take underpanel off, which you may need to, both for access and to recover dropped items.

    Comment regarding clamping of coolant hose, mentioned and or shown in videos:

    1. When removing the intake manifold for cleaning, you do need to lift the throttle body off the intake manifold. Still, the coolant hoses connected to the throttle body have ample slack, enough that you can leave them connected, and just tie the throttle body to something adjacent, say the inverter wiring harness.

    2. When removing the EGR cooler, removing coolant hoses is necessary, but if you drain 2 liters/quarts from the radiator drain spigot prior (into a clean container), the coolant level in the system will be dropped below the EGR componennts, and you won't spill anything. Just be sure to not tip the cooler when lifting it off (and catch the rear gasket): there are a few tablespoons of coolant trapped at the lower back corner.

    Pour that into your previous drained coolant, and when done pour it back into the reservoir. If you've got the coolant bleed bolt (2010, 2011 model years), leave it open while pouring the coolant back in, till coolant starts coming out. For later model years, leave the topmost coolant hose on EGR disconnected till coolant starts coming out. Also, might help to burp the main radiator hose as you pour the coolant back in.
     
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  10. Simtronic

    Simtronic Active Member

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  11. Simtronic

    Simtronic Active Member

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    I am sure it has never been serviced other than oil and filter changes, it was a lot worse than mine though it has a few miles on mine too. Cooler wasn't totally blocked could get a trickle through it manifold wasn't that bad and finally the fault was the egr valve itself. Caked in carbon and wouldn't move, stuck slightly open I think though hard to tell with the gunk in it. Now running great and the owner is aware that servicing one self can save a lot of money and keep things reliable.
     
    #11 Simtronic, May 27, 2020
    Last edited: May 27, 2020