Red Prius 04 With 275K Miles

How did it get broken? Are you basing that on the 400 fault codes you had or is it physically broken? The odds of that sensor just failing while sitting idle are practically zero.

P0AC0 - Hybrid Battery Pack Current Sensor 'A' Circuit Range/Performance
This code will not prevent the car from going ready and will allow the car to be driven normally.

I'm not sure this means the sensor is broken. Maybe, it's detecting extremely low current (out of expected range) because.....it's depleted, or the ecu is acting stupid, or the wire harness has issues or ????


I'm trying so hard to help you, but you just won't listen. If you insist on spending a bunch of money, just find a dude on Craigslist who will swap a different battery into your car for 4 or 500 bucks and be done with it. Your battery and any problems it may have will be his problem. He'll have the equipment to figure it out (maybe) and take your old battery and charge it up and then sell it to the next person.

 

Post #31...

You have the cover off the battery. Are you able to measure, document and post the voltages of all 28 individual modules?

If all the module voltages are low (and they should be if you're only seeing 14 volts on each block) then one inexpensive option is to purchase a single hobby charger and charge one module or one block at a time until you have charged all 28 modules.

 

Not sure if this is still the situation though.

 

16 years is a REMARKABLE run for any 12 V car battery.

At 10 volts, it is almost totally DEAD. You are lucky it starts or runs at all.

Before you do anything else.......you NEED to get a new fully charged 12 V battery in place.
Then clear the codes and see what comes back.

 

Just STOP please.
Some or all of those trouble codes you are seeing likely are FALSE readings.

BEFORE you do anything else, you need to replace the 12 V battery.
$200 tops; about half that if you do it yourself.
The new battery must be fully charged before use.
And you might have to visit a dealer to get the codes reset.

PLEASE DON'T GO OFF ON A TANGENT BECAUSE OF BAD INFORMATION caused by a bad 12 V battery. You might have some serious problems.......but don't guess and throw away money.

I find it amazing that we are now almost 50 messages into this thread and NOBODY has yet told him to first get a good 12 V battery. This is not new information. It probably has been covered in close to a hundred different threads before.

 

mmm...….Post #5 and Post #21 ??????????????

 

Post 5 reinforces the "guess" that there are other serious problems......which may or may not be the case.

Sorry I missed #21.....but it seems that the OP didn't see or understand it either.

 

In post #51 ss2 said :

The plethora of DTCs were provided by the dealer, and are listed in post #1. Which part of post #5 (below) is a "guess" ?

Then again in post #51 ss2 said :

That statement is misleading at best, as the OP replied in post #37 below :

ss2, you missed post #21 and post #37, and possibly post #5, but how did you miss post #3 (below) as well :

 

Nice work. While you have everything apart, be sure to check for corrosion at the battery fan and associated connector. Also check for corrosion in the larger white colored connector just to the right of the battery fan or up and to the left of the newly installed 12v battery :










Check all of the connectors on the left end (drivers side) of the HV battery, including the the harness and HV battery ECU (below) :

 

Wasn't there more to that post ?
Anyway, replacing the 12 V battery is not "prudent", it is necessary.

I haven't done good following the flow of this thread.
For that I am sorry.
If you wish to continue to beat me up for that, fine. Just please do it in private messages so it won't clutter up the thread.