Oil Catch Can, Eliminate that knock!

A replacement hose is under $10, if you want to take the plunge, cut the hose. Part number:

12261-37060

 

Not as cheap over here in Malaysia. The hose cost around USD20 and after converting to local currency it cost like USD60 based on your standard of living there. Plus, I actually trying to decide whether to cut or not. After checking it without cutting, found it to work no problem. So I kept it uncut.

 

Another idea for restoring to stock, would be to just use the cut hose, push 3/8" hose barb splice on, rejoin the two halves. One of these:



That's a little bit "doing the dirty" when you sell the car, but it's effective, works.

 

Here is my version of the oil catch can. You can see my routing here. i didn't have to cut the original hose. Combining a few ideas. i had some 3/8 ID fuel line thats good up to 300F. i mounted similar to where Mendel (Thanks Mendel!) did. the idea of using gravity makes sense. also added Sintered bronze filter to the OUT inside to help filter. Used the top hole for IN so it goes straight down. covered the hole for the dipstick. i misplaced my bag of a dozen #0000 stainless steel wool so thats yet to be added. i just need to insulate/cover the orange AC plug in case oil drips on to it. i've yet to decide if i want to make a porthole on the engine splash shield.

In this pic is the last step before i button up the engine bay. i changed the piston rings to try what Danlatu did.
Many Thanks to Danlatu, The Critic and RagingFit for all the info. i just fired it up today after 9 weekends of work.

 

Did you put some sort of rubber between the bracket and the beam? It's good to keep that connection slightly flexible, especially if you use the front jacking point, which is at the underside of that beam. The beam needs to be able to flex.

Can the oil catch can rotate in the bracket? A 90 degree counterclockwise turn would get the hose away from that high voltage AC line. Keep in mind too: while I doubt it moves much, the engine (and the AC line) are mounted in flexible suspension, shift slightly as the engine's running.

You don't have to cut the original hose, but if you do, the whole thing looks more eloquent. A new hose (if/when you restore it to stock) is under $10. The part number: 12261-37060.

From videos I've watched, reading, and in practice, I found you don't need hose clamps where the fuel lines are pushing onto hose barbs. If you cut the OEM hose in half, push on barb splicers, then run the fuel lines down to the OCC, the only clamps you need are the OEM PCV hose clamps, pushed onto the PCV valve and intake spigot.

I've read on one site (a local hose supplier), that putting a clamp on a hose that's pushed onto a hose barb is actually detrimental. The hose barb is designed to be the seal. It might be in the Tips and How-To's, top link here:

https://www.new-line.com/resources/overview.htm

And this is the main page for hose barbs, elbows, , adapters, etc:

https://www.new-line.com/fittings/brass-hose-inserts-and-push-on-hose-barbs

 

Thanks Mendel,
i could fab something to rotate it, but i think that would weaken it further. at least the way i'm envisioning it.
i'll probably slightly reroute the orange connector instead to take it out of harms way. still thinking about it...

i do have a spare stock hose. nobody's going to see it so i'll leave it at that in case i have to undo it when we're out.
the clamp at the hose barb isnt that tight. just enough so it wouldnt expand...
this is my wife's car, bought used with blown HG... its already in better shape than my gen 2 oil guzzler...

 

I recently fitted my OCC and found a great place to fit it. Mine is screwed to the right hand chassis next to the engine coolant pump. It's out of the way and is hidden when the air box it fitted plus is easy to check the level and to empty the can when needed.

 

phillip dale

I want to mount in the exact same location as you.

Do you have more pictures?

What tools and materials did you use for your mount?

Any tips to best mount it where you did?

 

Without me crawling under the car again and looking around, is there any convenient mounting point for an OCC that would be accessible when I undo the flap that gives access to the filter? Or would the additional hose length required for that be too much of a problem?

 

I'm not sure if my loc'n. would meet your criteria:

Oil Catch Can, Eliminate that knock! | Page 91 | PriusChat

I put a slotted angle bracket atop the front lower beam. 2.5"x1.5", with long leg horizontal. Self-tapping screws into the top flange of the beam are likely the simplest approach. I used thru-bolts, but it was "complicated". Do put some sort of rubber gasket between the bracket and the beam: if you're using the front/centre jacking point (which is on the underside of that beam), the beam needs to flex.

If you take the full panel off, then pretty much everywhere works. Doing that allows you to check everything, look for leaks, inspect CV boots and so on. Also, it saves wear-and-tear on that poor "access flap". I take the full panel off for every oil change (and on slow afternoons lol). Take your time with the fastener's and wash them out with hot/soapy water, clear out the grit, before reinstalling. Then, they will last a long time. If you need to replace any here are the part numbers:

The majority: 90467-07201 (11 in total)
The two with grey caps, at the "flap": 90467-09277 (2 in total)

If your oil catch can has a tap on the bottom for draining (likely with NPT fitting), something you can do:

Remove the tap, and replace with a male npt/hose barb fitting, connect a length of hose, run it to a hose barb/female NPT fitting, and attach the tap. Basically run the hose to somewhere more convenient, connect the tap there.

That makes for a whole length of hose with goop in it though.

 

That certainly looks worth investigating.

 

Go low:

What did you do to ur Gen III Prius today????

Worked well on our 2010 prior to selling it at 200k miles.

And I only needed the 2 foot gas line to boot.

 

Yes, my BMW and one of my Porsches has a system like this. Of course rather than a generic one like this product, those are custom engineered and integrated to the exact requirements of the engines they are used with.

Yes, clever design with the vortex separation.

But actually what happens is that when they get old and clogged they usually cause the valve covers to erupt, or even hydrolocking (with oil) the engine. Pretty much a disaster. Not uncommon at all. Happened on my BMW to the previous owner.

So even with the custom engineered design, it is a known issue, especially in colder climates where the moisture and water/oil mayonnaise mixture can freeze, making a very effective plug in one of the various tubes. The hydrolock / valve cover explosion typically occurs while driving a few minutes after startup on a cold winter morning.

Solution is to stay on top of the problem with pre-emptive replacement or maintenance (this is the BMW/Porsche version of the Gen3 Prius' EGR system), or to ... replace the whole system with a simple oil catch can.

And regarding piping the "catch" output directly back into the engine, I know it should be just a mixture of oil and water, but having seen some of what gets caught, I would rather keep it separated and recycle it with my oil changes.

So why do such great engineers that they have in those companies do this? As with many things, they are directed to make a solution that is green (not exhausting gas or oil pollutants) and also customer friendly (not requiring an extra maintenance procedure like emptying a catch can). So this is what they make. It's cool, amazing, and like everything else, they design it to probably last 100k miles at which point it is a problem beyond the person who originally bought the car as new. So everyone is happy except those stuck with it at that point.

Cool, clever, interesting, but I do not see it as an upgrade to a simple conventional OCC. Someone willing and able to install an OCC themself can probably similarly empty it as needed, which will be far simpler and more reliable.

 

I like the idea mounting OCC below PCV level. Due to gravity and condensed oil can travel down to OCC instead stay on hose when OCC mounted above PCV level.

I love Mendel Leisk is crazy job and mounted all his OCC securely. But, I like to stole Dad701 idea and mount as pictures show above. For long run, the vibration of engine can affect the OCC and it performance if mount as pictures showed above?

 

Just checked my OCC. It only had one little drop in it.
Crazy Huh?

 

After how many miles?

 

@Tekken thats a good location, utilizing blanked-off starter motor mount plate. It moves WITH the engine, also good I think.

Yes. How many miles?

@NewHybridOwner beat me lol.

 

1500 mi
PCV Valve is New 1800miles ago

 

My post seemed to vanish in the ether, try again:

It's caught stuff in past? Has baffle or mesh?

 

In the winter, when I first installed it, after a week caught a teaspoon.
But since that last time just one Drop. WOW!!!
Must be that cold weather gets more. And now with the warmer weather, Less
It has a Baffle.
this was the car I did the engine swap. about 1800 miles ago