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Bought a 2012 For $700

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Main Forum' started by Cosmo Tigato, Dec 2, 2019.

  1. pao1117

    pao1117 New Member

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    Having the same issue with my Prius V at 124k miles. I did a baroscope test and I see coolant in Cylinder 2.

    To the OP, when you cleaned the piston, is it ok to turn the motor to bring the piston up to top? Do you need to bring it back to where it was when you removed the head or doesn't matter? My cams are locked and checked TDC at 2pm marker on the chains.
     
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  2. pao1117

    pao1117 New Member

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    9ADA2F3C-2156-458A-983E-22CBA41F026E.jpeg 70B4FCE3-817B-4B62-9005-566041C9C843.jpeg Here are the photos of the cylinder 2. It’s frustrating that this car has the least amount of miles among my other cars and it gave me the biggest headache lol.
     
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  3. Cosmo Tigato

    Cosmo Tigato Active Member

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    Its fine to turn the engine.
    There are alignment marks on the crank shaft gear to line up the Timing chain.
     
    #203 Cosmo Tigato, May 26, 2020
    Last edited: May 26, 2020
  4. pao1117

    pao1117 New Member

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    ok thanks. Do you have to put the pistons back to the same position before you turned the motor? I see some vidoes where they put the head back on with all the pistons leveled in the middle of the cylinder. That doesn’t look tdc to me.
     
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  5. Cosmo Tigato

    Cosmo Tigato Active Member

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    when you line up the marks for the timing chain you will discover the pistons will be in the correct place
     
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  6. douglasjre

    douglasjre Senior Member

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    That's a good point if you turn the cam s without turning the bottom half of the motor you'll likely collide the valves into the pistons
     
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  7. Cosmo Tigato

    Cosmo Tigato Active Member

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    Hey guess what? The CEL popped on, YIPPEE!!! I get to work on a Prius. P043E P043F P2401 P2402 P2419

    upload_2020-6-13_11-42-7.jpeg


    So I put in a different canister assembly and same problem.
    ( Was going to change the Canister anyways because the old one was cut open and glued back together)
    I changed the 12 volt battery for a fully charged one (12.6v) from my other prius.
    Same issue.

    2010 Prius - Emission Control | Free Download

    ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    upload_2020-6-13_12-13-36.jpeg
    ---------------------------------------------------------------------


    I tested both vent valves (Leak Detection Pump) off the car (on the bench) with a 12 volt battery
    Both of them make the clicking sound.:cool:


    -----------------------------------------------------------------------
    upload_2020-6-13_15-30-56.jpeg
    --------------------------------------------------

    upload_2020-6-13_15-31-42.jpeg
    -----------------------------------

    I tested the Leak detection pump Wire harness for continuity and resistance 0.00 (y)

    So maybe both LDP's are bad?

    Really hope its not the ECU:confused:
    ---------------------------

    My Techstream quits every time i try to run the VSV Vent valve Manual on/off function.:cautious:
    So I can't check if the ECM commands are reaching the Leak Detection Pump/Canister pump module/vent valve. So many names for the same part.:confused:

    I guess I will run a Continuity/resistance test from the ECU Connector all the way to the Canister pump module Connector.

    I knew this was going to be fun. :D:D:D

    ---------------------------------------------------

    Evaporative System Codes P043E, P043F, P2401, P2402, P2419. | PriusChat
    P043E P043F P2401 P2402 P2419

    --------------------------------------------------------

    upload_2020-6-13_18-28-59.jpeg
    I need to find the "2012 toyota prius ECU pinout diagram Canister Pump Module"
    --------------------------------------------

    Any other possible Suggestions?


    @Mendel Leisk
    @Raytheeagle
    @Grit
    @Mjoo
    @StarCaller
     

    Attached Files:

    #207 Cosmo Tigato, Jun 13, 2020
    Last edited: Jun 13, 2020
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  8. Cosmo Tigato

    Cosmo Tigato Active Member

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    The last test showed all these codes P043E, P043F, P0441, P2401, P2402 and P2419.
    upload_2020-6-17_10-56-52.jpeg



    This is the test the EVAP runs after 5 hrs if the coolant temp is below 95F.
    upload_2020-6-17_10-52-33.jpeg

    [​IMG]

    Why would it show negative values?

    Could it be because the Purge Valve is stuck open?
    I am thinking YES

    EDIT: NO, Just removed the Purge Valve and tried to blow through it, its closed.
    Put 12 volts to it and it opened just as it should, no problem blowing through it.
    Kept blowing air in to it as I removed the 12 volts and it closed and cant get any air through.

    So must I have 2 bad Canister Pump Modules?
     

    Attached Files:

    #208 Cosmo Tigato, Jun 17, 2020
    Last edited: Jun 17, 2020
  9. Cosmo Tigato

    Cosmo Tigato Active Member

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    I put the old Canister back in and looks like i am back to the original codes. P043E P043F P2401 P2402 P2419
    So the second can was worst then my hack and glue/taped one LOL.
    upload_2020-6-19_10-49-51.jpeg

    That according to the chart below these codes point to just the 0.02 inch orifice being Clogged or hi-flow in the LDP (leak detection pump module aka Vent Valve Assembly)
    upload_2020-6-19_10-44-56.jpeg

    Could this be cleaned out?
    Hard to find someone selling just the Module, most places are selling the Entire EVAP Charcoal Canister Assembly.
     
    #209 Cosmo Tigato, Jun 19, 2020
    Last edited: Jun 19, 2020
  10. softdown

    softdown Junior Member

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    What did you use to charge the hybrid battery?
     
  11. Cosmo Tigato

    Cosmo Tigato Active Member

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    Charge individual cells or 28 in Parallel ONLY.
    -----!!!Do NOT hook this up in Series!!!-----

    upload_2020-6-20_7-8-21.jpeg
    upload_2020-6-20_7-9-31.jpeg
     
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  12. softdown

    softdown Junior Member

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    Doing 28 in parallel? That would require a great deal of stout cabling and connectors! I can't even hardly compute paralleling 28 cells.
     
  13. Cosmo Tigato

    Cosmo Tigato Active Member

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    Charge individual cells or 28 in Parallel ONLY.
    -----!!!Do NOT hook this up in Series!!!-----

    View attachment 193315
    Study this picture very closely

    upload_2020-6-20_7-56-39.jpeg
     
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  14. Cosmo Tigato

    Cosmo Tigato Active Member

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    Yippee!!! I fixed my EVAP Issue!
    Now I can get the emissions test.

    upload_2020-7-2_19-20-24.jpeg
     
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  15. mjoo

    mjoo Senior Member

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    Curious to know what fixed it for you, Cosmo
     
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  16. Cosmo Tigato

    Cosmo Tigato Active Member

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    If you get P043E P043F P2401 P2402 P2419 It means WATER in the Charcoal Canister Assembly.
    It gets in from the vent behind the filler neck. Rain or car wash water gets in the gas door and gets in the vent, and into the Vent valve then clogs the 0.02in orifice and destroys the charcoal pellets
    So you must either open up your Charcoal Can assembly and dry it, hoping your 0.02in orifice is not clogged. (I did that the first time a few pages back on this blog)

    BEST thing to do is, Put in a GOOD charcoal canister assembly, that is how I fixed the problem this time!
     
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  17. Cosmo Tigato

    Cosmo Tigato Active Member

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    When i bought it 208,134 miles
    Now it Currently has 209,930 miles
    About 7 months, I need to drive more.
     
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  18. tony_2018

    tony_2018 Member

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    It looks like you have the bus bars attached and only charged from one end?

    edit: looks like you rotated the cells to match each terminal and then hooked it up. Yes, in parallel. Got it.
     
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  19. Cosmo Tigato

    Cosmo Tigato Active Member

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    I now have 213,534 miles on the Blue Car. Runs like a dream.
    Put a Cat shield and a tilt alarm in.
    That is all for now.
     
  20. Cosmo Tigato

    Cosmo Tigato Active Member

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    Picked up a Pearl 2012 Prius Plug-in with 160,460 miles
    so I'm
    Selling the Blue car with 213,667 miles
    Thanks to all who have contributed to this Project.
     
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