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'06, 196k+, needs HV battery

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by dslomer64, Jul 3, 2020.

  1. dslomer64

    dslomer64 Member

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    I need a new HV battery. Every warning light came on at once. I can get a reconditioned lifetime battery installed by Green Bean Battery for under $1500. If that is all, or if not much more will need replacing, I'll take my chances.

    I went to AutoZone. They found two codes: P1116 and P1121, both about coolant sensor but nothing about HV battery.

    So I went to O'Reilly. They found five distinct new codes:
    P0A80 *cc: rep HV batt pack
    P3016 *pc: batt blk 6 weak
    P3000 *uh: batt control system
    C1259 u: HV sys regen malfunc
    C1310 u: malfunc in HV system
    but nothing about coolant sensor.

    I went to Toyota, expecting at least those 7 codes. They reported same 2 as AutoZone plus HV battery.

    And this was for a PAID-for check engine diagnostic. I expected more since surely they use the best scanner of the bunch.

    I complained. Two days later the service manager emailed me this list. The car had been at home. Where'd he get the codes? History on in-house computer?

    Here is a list of all the codes Toyota found (* means stored twice) nine distinct new codes:
    B1421 solar sensor circuit
    B1433*air outlet damper
    C2121 no signal tpms Transmitr
    C2124 "
    P0172 mixture too rich
    P0351 ignition coil
    P0352 "
    P0353 "
    P0354 "
    Already found above:
    P0A80*replace hybrid batt
    P1116*coolant sensor
    P1121* "
    P3000 HV batt control system
    P3016*batt block malfunction,

    So now i know about 16 codes, but Toyota missed C1259 and C1310.

    I didn't ask in advance if they would try to find every P (and maybe B and C) code stored, but surely the operator can choose which of the 12 modules/components to scan or not scan.

    First, do I just ignore what Toyota sent? If it didn't come from my car to a scanner and if an independent scan didn't find any of them, should I assume they're old and no longer set?

    I'm going to Auto4N, a highly-regarded independent company, Wednesday and pay "anywhere from zero to $120” for an all-12-modules scan and go from there since obviously I need someone to do this to provide further repair cost info.

    Am I going about this right?

    Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.
     
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  2. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    independent scans don't always communicate with the ecu's properly.

    the only way to repair an old prius is to use the service manual trouble shooting

    many codes will not be pertinent to the main problem(s)

    if you paid toyota, i would request a print out, or a rescan
     
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  3. dslomer64

    dslomer64 Member

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    "He" is Toyota Service Manager. He reset codes to nothing with my approval when the NON-TechStream reader he used found only two codes about coolant sensor. Then I asked, "But why didn't it find HV battery codes? He didn't know. Why the heck he didn't use TechStream is probably because it/they were in use and I dropped in as invited, "any time". I guess that implies, "when we're not swamped". I'll make an appt next time. I'm as stupid as they are.

    Anyway, I fired it up, no warnings showed for couple minutes, so I drove off, as he promised to use TechStream after I drive enough for codes to store, warnings to show. I'm retired. I got nothing better to do. He's being nice when not being stupid.

    Car ran great with no warnings. HV display functioning normally, up to lots of blue from one purple; no battery fan running, normal engine operation. I thought, I wonder how long THIS is gonna last.

    For about 10 minutes, maybe 4 miles. Then all the warnings popped up simultaneously, as happened the first incident a month ago.

    But this made me wonder about my 6-7 year-old 12v battery and its dim headlights, replaced once in 14 years.

    So I checked voltages, yesterday upon arriving home and this morning. Both times I got:
    engine off: 12.1
    accessory on: 11.7

    engine running: 13.8

    I've read a web page saying (so it must be true) that those first two voltages should be at least 12.4 and 12 and so are indication of need for new 12v battery (I know this is true, given age) and may even satisfy the HV battery that it's okay, that THIS is the problem causing HV to throw all those warnings (which I really want to be true). But I've also found opinions juuuuuuuuuust a bit outside this realm.

    Your thoughts?

    Afterthought...
    I could replace 12v and see what happens. But if TechStream scan finds bunch of codes--even if all are explainable by bad HV--heck--car's 14 years old. Body was in excellent condition until I got my 2017 and gave '06 to my wife, who in 3 short years, has nailed all 4 corners (one badly), one side twice, rear bumper many times... I love her and respect women as equals so I just can't imagine how this has happened....

    ... So I think I'm talking myself into fixing whatever's wrong under the hood and behind the rear seat, if under $2000.
     
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  4. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    12v is expensive and should be replaced if you're prepared to go ahead with whatever else needs to be done.

    200k still has a lot of life left in it, but there are other expensive systems like brake actuator and a/c compressor that can go out at any time.
     
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  5. dslomer64

    dslomer64 Member

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    Here's what I'm imagining:

    HV battery 1449
    12v battery 225
    Tire sensor 100 each*
    Coolant sensor 226**
    ---------------------- =======
    $2,000 and counting
    *Or $2,100
    ** - made up amount to get $2k. Probably more.

    If indeed more big repairs are diagnosed as "soon required"--esp AC unless just sensor is bad--i'll get rid of it. I guess....
    .
    If I'd add in what it would cost to fix all the dings, scratches, and bashed right front that have turned my car's very-good-in-2017 condition to holey-shirt-how-old-was-this-kid... uh ... comma?

    Anyway, cost to fix would be 4 figures, so it's not getting fixed only to be bashed again... which tells me no new car, nowhere near one ... which tells me spend $2,500 and have reliable but ugly transportation for a few (3) years at an "interest-free monthly payment" of $70 instead of who-knows-but-a-lot-more-than-that for many years, and only if all systems remain "go".

    {That logic tells me spending $5,000 to fix ($200/mo) would be prudent, and it isn't, so ... It's Ill-logic, blowing smoke... I guess there's a break-even point that I could look for (how, exactly, Dave?) but I'm exhausted....}

    Tires are good.,.. Interior, not....40mpg, wife; ?mpg Me (usta be 50)...AC works....





    Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.
     
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  6. dslomer64

    dslomer64 Member

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    Here's a picture of the extensive TechStream report. If anyone can tell me about the abbreviations and/or "worry-level" of each item, I'd appreciate it. Screenshot_20200713-101443.jpeg

    Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.
     
  7. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    how long is the green bean warranty?
     
  8. AzusaPrius

    AzusaPrius Senior Member

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    You should know by now how long it is, unless you forget things on a daily.

    Green Bean lifetime warranty and transferable when you want to sell your car

    C1259 & C1310 will be fixed when changing out the rear wheel bearing hub assembly with abs sensors.

    I had the same codes and replaced them and now no problems.
     
    #8 AzusaPrius, Jul 13, 2020
    Last edited by a moderator: Dec 5, 2021
  9. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    i can't remember my name sometimes. i have to come here and look at my avatar
     
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  10. Sean2005Gen2CA

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    I had P0A80 and similar experience with driving for a few miles and all dash lights turning on. I also went to O'Reilly and Autozone diagnosing my 12v and OBD2 codes with mixed results. The shops could not find codes, but O'Reilly said the 12v was bad. Autozone said it was good. I got the full picture after ordering and using a Carista OBD2 reader with the Dr. Prius app for myself. That is when I confirmed P0A80 and a weak block in my HV pack.

    I was very close to ordering the Green Bean service, but learned I would have to pay the full amount to procure their service, rather than deposit upon signing agreement then paying the rest after the job was done. This is because I did not have the HV codes confirmed (which they require to set up replacement service and send technician) at the time I was in contact with them because the shops readers could not find the codes. I decided to get a reader for myself, and when I learned it was only one or two modules that were the problem, with the help of the Prius Chat community I replaced two modules, and reconditioned my HV pack with a Hybrid Automotive reconditioning kit.

    My 2005 Prius is back up and running for the last month. I do a lot of highway driving, and have put about 1000 miles on since reinstalling my HV and I'm very happy so far with my results. I made an overview slideshow and video talking about my experience from diagnosing, to assessing options, to working on the module replacement and reconditioning, here it is, hope it helps;

     
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  11. maximusdec

    maximusdec Member

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    Thanks for posting this. Might do the same when the time comes.
     
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  12. dolj

    dolj Senior Member

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    It is transferable only once, so there's that.
    I know you probably sincerely believe that, but those two codes have no one-to-one link to the bearings and/or ABS sensors. It is possible that in your case, the scoop (see below) was in the ABS ECU, in which case your scenario is quite different from this one.

    C1259 and C1310 are codes set in the skid ECU; they both mean that the brake ECU has heard the news of trouble in the hybrid system, so the codes from the HV and battery ECUs should be reviewed to get the real scoop. In the meantime, the brake/ABS ECUs make adjustments to modify what they do to take regenerative brake out of the equation until such time the main problem is fixed.

    In this case, the scoop is the P0A80 and P3016 set in the battery ECU.

    Getting this fixed will make the brake/ABS ECUs happy once again.
     
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  13. AzusaPrius

    AzusaPrius Senior Member

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    Yea and since you only own the car one time before you sell it, does it matter if it is only transferable once?
     
  14. dslomer64

    dslomer64 Member

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    Lifetime. I know, company's lifetime, not mine or car's.

    Yikes. Does this mean that the experience of Jocelyn at GreenBean is questionable? That adds more cash to the deal. George is gettin' upset!

    Now that you mention it, this is a sticky wicket, paying up front, even if only part. I'm not terribly close to sealing this deal. Yesterday, hey, let's go for it! Today, hmmmm.... interesting used car prices on Priuseseses (as Daffy or Sylvester or both might say).

    I have the codes, so that's no problem. But every time I look at a new post (or the way I've organized an "expanded report" for my own benefit to sort it out) cash outlay looks to be growing well beyond $2000, heading for and past $2500, in which case, forget it. 196k is one thing; body is bad. No code for too rich mixture after I replaced the free Mass Airflow Sensor that SOMEbody anonymous sent me over a year ago so I can do some needed repairs but ....................

    WARRANTY EXCLUDES FAILURE DUE TO:
    ...

    • ... poor engine power conditions which discharge the hybrid battery due to the engine failing to ... properly run.
    • Vehicle conditions that may cause premature failure.
      ...
    They have to protect themselves. I have to care for my car and thus their liability, and that's perfectly fine, but George is gettin' paranoid, the more I read and (over)think, but ... couldn't those two exclusions be somewhat subjectively applied? I've been at this computer for five solid hours working on my car dilemma and I think it's time to press my Sleep button. Or better yet, power down and get a fresh start tomorrow.

    Oh. Good. Wish I'd read this before writing, "Yikes. Does this mean that the experience of Jocelyn at GreenBean is questionable? That adds more cash to the deal...." Au contraire, it goes toward confirming what she said. Subtract yea-many dollars from cash outlay.

    #16
     
    #14 dslomer64, Jul 14, 2020
    Last edited by a moderator: Dec 5, 2021
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  15. dolj

    dolj Senior Member

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    I make no judgment, but full disclosure is always nice.
     
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  16. dslomer64

    dslomer64 Member

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    I learned that "FFD" is "Freeze Frame Data" and "SB" is surely "Service Bulletin" (a.k.a."TSB"?). Also surely "Hist" is "History" and "Pend" is "Pending". And I suppose "Curr Cond" is "Current Condition".

    Any DTC that was in History is still around as Current Condition, which leaves only "half" of the Pending P1116/P1121 up for grabs, I guess, meaning that when P1121 gets fixed (IF IT DOES), P1116 will go away.

    Toyota Service Manager suggests that, after HV battery replacement, those will be the only two surviving codes.

    Yeah, but I've seen upwards of $400 for Toyota to fix P1121/1116. Add in the new 12 volt I'll need soon enough and I'm at $2100. Local tire dealer "promises" he'll replace the current non-TPMS valve stem for $100. I didn't know two were bad. If so, add another $100. TPMS light will be off and functional. Now $2300, or almost $900 more than GreenBean's price that I was all too willing to pay once upon, and now wondering if "used" is the way to go since I've no clue of the cost of P1336 "Zero Calibrate Deceleration Sensor" if sensor is bad, but follow the link in the report below for B1411 to observe removing front bumper. I'd call that 2 hours if not 3. That's if it's bad. And what if it is? Do I have to replace it? Only way to find out if those ite s are bad at this point is to install new HV battery.

    Catch .22. Or Catch .06.

    Related to B1411, tomorrow I'll get the price of replacing temp sensor.

    One web page suggested that fixing P1121/1116 was semi-optional, except that CEL will likely be on all the time since emissions will be the issue. I'll call tomorrow to see cost ($451 was fudged).

    But follow the second link for a nutty, "free" way to Zero Calibrate whatever, assuming that C1336 is still thrown after new battery. But on the OBD connection port, I gotta find which terminal connections are CG and TS, probably, he says, only found in 2006 Prius Repair Manual which I don't have and can't find. Anyway, stick paper clips in them. Short them 4,6,8, times, whatever it takes. Power on, power off. Level ground, wheels straight, don't TOUCH THE CAR until driven 25+ mph 10 seconds. Is this guy serious?? Seriously.

    Well, I canNOT believe what I just found. I found 2005 repair manual, not 2006, but "how different could they be?" Here's picture of exactly where to stick the paper clips on a 2005, if after new battery C1336 is thrown. Only to use if C1336 thrown after new battery.
    Zero calibrate.png

    06 for chat.png
     
    #16 dslomer64, Jul 15, 2020
    Last edited: Jul 15, 2020
  17. dolj

    dolj Senior Member

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    A code that mentions a sensor name does not mean the sensor is broken. You follow the inspection procedure for the code and see where it takes you. It could be a broken wire or a faulty plug or connector, or something else.

    In any case, I would sideline the minor A/C issues until you decide on the bigger HV battery solution followed by the P1121/P1116 issue, which also could be a broken wire or faulty plug or connector.
     
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  18. dslomer64

    dslomer64 Member

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    That sane advice has snapped me out of my worry loop. I had no OBD reader. I just spur-of-the-moment bought a Zurich sr11 at Harbor Freight for $125 with the understanding that if it doesn't produce codes that I need to troubleshoot, it's returnable. (Box says "most" cars 1996-present and I'm aware of difficulty of any non-manufacturer's reader finding all ECUs, to say nothing about codes.

    It's also hermetically sealed in plastic, so destroying this covering is necessary, and I hate returning such. (Plastic cover, fine; some items are easy to remove by "unsnapping" and snap back together, so, not my problem, but my conscience when that's not an option.)

    Since I haven't opened it, and since I don't know what I'm looking for in menus and inputs that differ from others I've seen, I am hoping for some guidance.

    After some brief (after non-binding purchase) research, I've seen reader v
    .
    . on the web for about 1/2 to 1/3 the cost of the Zurich sr11. (BTW, top-o'-line is about $1000.)




    Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.