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Block voltage on individual cells??

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by mattfc, Aug 5, 2020.

  1. mattfc

    mattfc New Member

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    Took my battery out, all side plastic strips, nuts & copper taken off. Trying to test individual cells but I keep getting 16.7-16.8v like it's testing the block instead of the normal 7-8v for an individual cell. Did I miss a step or forget to unplug something that's keeping the blocks connected?
     
  2. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    An individual cell is 1.2 volts, there are six of them in a module, and two modules to a block.

    To measure the voltage of one module, you need your probes on the two terminals of that module (longways). That should give you the voltage of that module even if you hadn't removed the bus bars.

    If you had any codes for voltage leaks, things could be more interesting.
     
    SFO likes this.
  3. mattfc

    mattfc New Member

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    C1259 C1310 & P0AA6 were the only codes I got from a full system check on an Innova 3170rs scanner. The red triangle came on & VSC & brake system lights then turning off & back on all dash lights came on. Would only turn on aux & go into park/neutral.

    I ran my code scanner while engine on but parked & my blocks 1-14 were sitting between 16.7-16.9 then I ran the scanner while gassing it up a huge hill & all my blocks were all between 15.1-15.4.
    The copper & nuts were pretty corroded (white & blue corrosion) 1 of the nuts was completely covered. I dont see anything wrong with the batteries I never lost any power. Could it be as simple as corrosion?
     
  4. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    could be, have you scanned it since cleaning everything?
     
  5. mattfc

    mattfc New Member

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    Putting it all back together now & testing
     
  6. mattfc

    mattfc New Member

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    Put it all back & same problem after about 2 mins of plugging my Aux battery back in triangle comes on & now the AC is reading B1421 code ‍♂️
     
  7. dolj

    dolj Senior Member

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    That solar sensor code is not an error as such. It sets if it does not detect bright sunlight. So if you got that code at night or inside in a garage then that is ok. However, if you got that code in bright sunlight, it would indicate you need to look at the solar sensor, its wiring or connectors.
    What did you do to eliminate the P0AA6 code (the others are other ECU confirmation codes of the P0AA6) which is a high voltage isolation fault? If you did nothing, this will be back. If you do get it back, retrieve the freeze frame detail codes, one of which will be 526 and the second will be one of 611, 612, 613, or 614. If you don't get the second sub-code, cycle the car to READY (or try to) one more time. This second sub-code will direct you to either the A/C, Inverter, transaxle, or HV (hybrid vehicle) battery.