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Do you need underbody rust protection on new Prime?

Discussion in 'Prime Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by Salamander_King, Nov 7, 2017.

  1. Georgina Rudkus

    Georgina Rudkus Senior Member

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    I use something like this;

    WYNNsky Lever Air Blow Gun,Brass Safety Nozzle,Air Blow Gun for Air Compressor | eBay
     
  2. mountaineer

    mountaineer Active Member

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    When I bought my Prime, they tried to sell me a dealer-installed electronic rust protection system, which, at $800 for a little box that looked like it did very little, didn't seem like a good deal. The dealer did say they don't recommend doing any rust-protection coatings, specifically on the Prime.
     
  3. Georgina Rudkus

    Georgina Rudkus Senior Member

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    That's because he wanted to sell you that useless $800 little box.

    Rust protection coatings when properly applied are very effective and worth the cost.

    They are best applied to bolted connections, brake lines and their fittings, and anywhere between a plastic panel and the metal part of the car body. Metal to metal joints, even sealed with seam sealant, are also areas very vulnerable to rust.
     
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  4. Salamander_King

    Salamander_King Senior Member

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    Migrating from oil change thread to the topic of rust protection.

    According to Fluid Film manufacture site, OK to use on plastic, but not on non-oil resistant rubbers.

    FAQ | Fluid Film
    upload_2020-9-21_11-35-51.png

    FluidFilm or WoolWax are not paintable. They are just too thick to brush it on. I do like the thinner boiled linseed oil consistency, but for a larger area without worry of over-spraying, I like using spray form either aerosol can or spray gun.
     
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  5. m8547

    m8547 Senior Member

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    Are most rubber parts under a car oil resistant, or not?
     
  6. Salamander_King

    Salamander_King Senior Member

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    Good question. I don't know for sure. To be honest, I don't think I can tell rubber from some type of plastic.
     
  7. Salamander_King

    Salamander_King Senior Member

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    I am getting ready to put winter wheels on my PRIME and our other cars soon. I decided to spray rust inhibitors on suspension and break area as well as any frames that are accessible without hoisting the car up high. Trying to decide what to use, I watched this video.


    Apparently, most of commercial rust inhibitors work to prevent rust formation if used correctly. However, the ease of application and durability of the coating seems to be quite different depending on what is used.

    I have used FluidFilm and WoolWax both in aerosol cans. Both of them in this format are very viscous and not easy to apply in uniform thickness. The WoolWax in particular was very prone to clog in a can. For this reason, this season, I am going to try using other rust inhibitors. I just ordered LPS 3 Premier Rust Inhibitor, CRC 06026 heavy duty marine corrosion inhibitor, and Cosmoline RP 342. They seems to be much thinner than lanolin based FluidFilm or WoolWax and are more durable on surface (not easily wiped off) yet not permanent as some other paint format inhibitor like POR 15. Then there is @Mendel Leisk favorite Boiled Linseed Oil. The price do vary depending on where to get, but most of them are priced around $8-18/can (10-12oz). And many of the brand sells in bulk either in 1 or 5 gal which makes the price much more affordable if wide areas or many cars need to be treated.

    I will see which one is the best performer in the areas of 1) ability to prevent rust formation, 2) ease of application, 3) durability, and 4) cost.
     
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  8. Salamander_King

    Salamander_King Senior Member

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    I just found a part II of the undercoating material testing video.


    In this video, he run ~20 or so more of brands and some home brew type rust inhibitors. What's interesting is that he did include Boiled Linseed Oil in this round of test and concluded that it work A OK, but not as good as some other commercial products out there. And more interestingly, home cooking oil did just as well in preventing rust on steel metal as BLO, plus, Vaseline did even a better job of preventing rust forming.

    Also, after doing some search on the boiled linseed oil, I have found alarming fact that the BLO can be fire hazard if not properly disposed of. For that reason, I decided not to use it at least not for large area treatment. See this video for more information:


    Well, after seeing those videos, I think I am going to use those 4 products on my car this year. One on each corner, so I can compare next spring how well each one did.

    4 products I am going to use are:
    1. FluidFilm
    2. LPS 3 Premier Rust Inhibitor
    3. CRC 06026 heavy duty marine corrosion inhibitor
    4. Cosmoline RP 342
     
    #108 Salamander_King, Sep 22, 2020
    Last edited: Sep 22, 2020
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  9. Georgina Rudkus

    Georgina Rudkus Senior Member

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    I prefer petroleum based products. That's what my dad and his friend has used for over 50 years. It has the effect of repelling rodents. They hate the smell and the taste of petroleum oils even when the coat soy based bio-plastics. Rodents do sometimes get into the engine compartment and leave acorn shells, but they never chew on the wiring.
     
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  10. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    Repel rust AND rodents, what's not to like. :)

    The CRC product interests me, effective and tenacious. Two coat recommendation and longish cure time a couple of cons. Might consider a can for hard to reach and/or intricate pieces.
     
  11. Georgina Rudkus

    Georgina Rudkus Senior Member

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    My favorite. Good and cheap. Thick and stays put as it protects. Have been using it for years.

     
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  12. Salamander_King

    Salamander_King Senior Member

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    For $17/can, I wouldn't call it cheap. Although it is a largeish 17oz can. It was not in the line-up for the test video I linked, so I don't know how good it is compared to others. I ordered CRC for $7/can (10 oz).
     
  13. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    Amazon.ca, it's $38 CDN. And 2~4 weeks shipping time. :(

    Back to boiled linseed oil. It's holding up anyhoo.

    Still, I wouldn't be surprised if some local specialty store had it cheaper, wouldn't be the first time.
     
    #113 Mendel Leisk, Sep 22, 2020
    Last edited: Sep 22, 2020
  14. Georgina Rudkus

    Georgina Rudkus Senior Member

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    My v is over 8 years old. The Transtar is thick and long lasting. One can covers a lot of surface. It's still there when other stuff like the PB has washed off the car's undersides.

    Cheap is relative.
     
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  15. Salamander_King

    Salamander_King Senior Member

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    OK, I placed an order for a can of Transtar 4423 Amber Rustproofing. I also picked up a can of WD-40 300035 Specialist Corrosion Inhibitor, Long-Lasting Anti-Rust Spray. I will run my version of testing those rust inhibitors this winter. More I look for the right product, more choices I find. In the end, as you say, the balance between 1) ability to prevent rust formation, 2) ease of application, 3) durability, and 4) cost, plus 5) safety and environmental factors will determine which one is the best value. Yeah, if the least expensive one lasts only a short time, then it is not very good value.
     
    #115 Salamander_King, Sep 23, 2020
    Last edited: Sep 23, 2020
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  16. Georgina Rudkus

    Georgina Rudkus Senior Member

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    I tried the WD-40 stuff three years, ago, I hope that you'll be impressed. Unfortunately, I was disappointed. While the Transtar formed a waxy film on the surface, the WD-40 remained tacky for over a year. I'm sold on the Transtar.
     
  17. Salamander_King

    Salamander_King Senior Member

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    From the review video I linked, there seems to be 3 categories of material used for undercoating. One is material like FluidFilm or Woolwax that remains liquid even after a year. Those are very viscous and hold onto the surface, but unfortunately, they will pickup any dust and dirt because it stays wet all the time. Advantage of those are the fact it can be wiped off if you ever need to remove it. This also can be a disadvantage that the material can come off in a area where subjected to water and dirt beating on it all the time like in the wheel well.

    Then there are material like CRC or Cosmoline that drys and forms hard film. They can only be removed by solvent. This can be an advantage that it stays on in an area subject to external force, but could be a disadvantage that if it ever need to be removed.

    The third type is hybrid of those two, like LPS 3, which stays tacky but drys semi hard, thus resisting easy come off.

    From what you have described, Transtar seems to fall in the the second category similar to Cosmoline and CRC while the WD40 is more like LPS 3.
     
  18. Salamander_King

    Salamander_King Senior Member

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    I ordered LPS 3 Premier Rust Inhibitor to be used on my car for comparison of various brands of rust inhibitors. But the company I ordered it made mistake and sent me this LPS Chainmate lubricant. The store does not want the item shipped back to them. So they are mine to keep free. I got dozens of 11oz aerosol cans. Question, what can I use this stuff for? It seems it is suitable to be used on very heavy machinery. Any good use around house?

    upload_2020-9-28_15-24-49.png
     
    #118 Salamander_King, Sep 28, 2020
    Last edited: Sep 28, 2020
  19. m8547

    m8547 Senior Member

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    Molybdenum disulfide is good stuff, but it makes a mess. I'd use it on anything that's metal on metal sliding friction. I can't think of many household uses. Maybe garage door rollers and hinges if it won't drip.

    I can think of a few uses for it in grease form, but not as a penetrating lubricant. If it leaves a dry film that might be useful for some things, but the description says wet film.

    I guess you could try it on a bike chain. The chain will probably never squeak again.
     
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  20. Salamander_King

    Salamander_King Senior Member

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    Yes, that was the only "chain" or "cable" I could think of around my house. I don't have bicycle or motorcycle. Oh, well, I just ended up with 12 cans of hazardous waste then.:cry::cry::cry: