Battery electronically disconnects?

no, there isn't. i'm missing your confusion. the car sat and the 12v died. you jumped it and it started and the 12v passed the test, so it is still good (enough) in all of this, did you ever get a static 12v reading?
you drove it and it charged a bit, but when it sits again, it will die again. the car does not make a good charger, and the 12v is likely still near the low point of good (enough) get a smart charger if you're not going to drive it.

 

If the 12v battery died after sitting for just 2 weeks, I would suspect a bad or weak battery.
How old it is? If it is 5 or more years, you should replace it.
You could put a charger on it, 4 amps max., for several hours, overnight if possible.
That should put a full charge on it. Then test it with a volt meter. It should be 12.5 or more.

If you plan on letting it sit for a few weeks at a time, you could keep the smart charger on it.

 

One of the most posted issues are related to low 12v battery & issue resolved by replacing it. If your statement is true then those threads would only be a few.

 

More’n likely their tester isn’t that discerning. An electronic load tester is your best bet, will test and display Cold Cranking Amps. If it’s lower than spec it’s time.

 

This may not explain why you had to jump the battery, but there is a "failsafe" feature...
From the 2010 Owner's Manual (p. 49):

 

@Georgina Rudkus 's started a thread, there's a fuse you can pull that isolates the battery. Not that convenient, but easier than pulling the neg cable off:

D/C cut, short pin dome fuse | PriusChat

 

Since the battery is only 2 years old, it should be fine. But you should fully charge it.

 

THIS.
And then get it tested again.
Battery testes are notoriously inaccurate.

It would also be rather unfortunate if your replaced the battery if the cause really is a loose or corroded main battery cable connection.

 

That short-pin is not very heavy gauge, which leads me to suspect that "isolates the battery" is more grandiose than what it actually does. Georgina wrote that it disables "Smart Key, the radio and all the parasitic current drains" ... but also, in the same thread, "you can still get in with the insert key and start the car with the back of the fob on the power switch", which suggests power is still getting at least to the Power Management Control ECU for it to notice when you are pushing the button, and the Certification ECU and ID Code Box to recognize you're holding the right key, and so on.

The three fuses shown in the wiring diagram as downstream of the short pin are RAD NO. 1 (serving the radio), DOME, and ECU-B (which is the memory-holding power for some, but not all, of the ECUs; some are on the ECU-B2 circuit instead). The combination meter has an interesting arrangement of diodes so it can be powered by either of two different incoming circuits without backfeeding either of them. (I suppose that means if you develop a short in the combination meter itself, you end up blowing two fuses.)

 

My car has been doing this for about the last month. I have been driving it a lot more and leaving it turned on. Have you found a solution? Was it a fuse?


My car turns on fine if the fob is in but it’s basically a car husk if the fob isn’t in the dash. I can’t open my trunk, unlock the cars, my interior lights won’t turn on, the smart key function doesn’t work. I haven’t had it jumped at any point.

 

It was one fuse. All is fixed

The guy at Toyota was basically trying to talk me into getting rid of my car bc it was almost of deaths door 200,000 miles (after I got the combo meter replaced today). I felt like I was going crazy and being gaslit bc I told them the symptoms and they cherry picked the ones they wanted to hear. None of it was making sense - he told me the issues I listed were bc the key wasn’t a Toyota brand key (I got one for $13 on Amazon. Worlds amazing). It was one fuse.

moral - get yourself a car guy - luckily I have a car guy - but he couldn’t get the combo meter part

 

Talk to the service manager of that dealership, tell him/her about your experience. If it falls on deaf ears, email Toyota USA, let them know how one of their dealerships operates. Maybe a Yelp and/or Google review too? BS like this should not go unrewarded.

 

New or used, and do you have a link you can share?