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P0A90 and P0335 codes please help diagnosing

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by daley, Dec 9, 2020.

  1. daley

    daley Junior Member

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    Hi there,

    I had another thread but hoping for help more specific to codes above.

    My 08 Prius 251k miles died on the road, it will go into ready mode but makes a whirring noise but no engine start.

    I am waiting on tech stream coming but managed to pull the 2 codes in title with scangauge and also phon we app.

    I am thinking it is a failed transaxle and or inverter problem but I want to rule out faulty a crank sensor and or wiring before deciding to put a new transaxle/ICE in the car.

    I found this posting about testing crankshaft sensor and wanted to see what folks thoughts on my findings were.

    I put car in neutral and I was able to turn the crank no problem by hand.

    I took the crankshaft sensor out and found it measures resistance of 1600ohm, I believe this to be within spec but it did look old and dirty, I have a new one on order. the connector had a lot of oil/dirt on it so I wondered if it’s not working.

    Following the above link I tested the connector and most of the tests came back within the specs.
    Here is where I am a little confused though.

    It states to test disconnect the sensor and E4, then measure each point of the harness to ground, when I do this with connectors disconnected all I get is OL, which makes sense to me but is not what the test reads as things should be.
    When I connect the E4 plug back in and measure the points at the crank sensor connector tI get 91kohms at connector 1 to ground and 0.9ohms at connector 2 to ground.
    Does any of this seem out?

    When I re connect the sensor and measure across the points at e4 connector I get 1600ohms, to me it looks like harness and sensor are functioning, can anyone see anything that says otherwise?
     
  2. SFO

    SFO Senior Member

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  3. daley

    daley Junior Member

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    I finally got tech steam up and running. The generic obd2 function on it would not connect to car, but I managed to run the health check and pulled several codes, hRiver the P0A90 that my scangauge found was nowhere to be seen on tech stream. Here is a few photos of the codes I pulled.

    Any suggestions where to look next? I have a new crank sensor to put on so will probably try that and go over the wiring there.

    I charge the 12v battery but after sitting with ig on for 30 min it drops to 8.9v could this be the culprit? Would a low battery cause car to die whilst driving?

    I cleared the codes after saving them but car still just makes a whirring noise from inverter side of engine and does t start.

    Any help is very much appreciated, I’m borrowing a car but can’t for much longer, I’m hoping to get mine running rather than buy another clunker.
     

    Attached Files:

    SFO likes this.
  4. SFO

    SFO Senior Member

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    Charge up the 12v again, then use techstream to retrieve the latest round of codes (DTCs). Please post them here.
     
  5. daley

    daley Junior Member

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    Sorry I have been snowed under with work and not had chance to look at car.

    I had it on charge for a day and never did anything to it. I just went to see what codes I am getting and now I have

    Po335 - which I believe is the crankshaft sensor.

    B1421 - which is something to do with the AC.

    C2318- low voltage at transmission module.

    I think the low voltage is the battery, I keep charging it and getting 12.5v or more but it isn’t lasting long, I think I’ll bite the bullet and get a new one.

    I put a new crank position sensor on but I’m not sure if the harness is fully working, I posted my findings about it above.

    Would a low 12v battery cause car to die on the road?
    Would a crank sensor fail and cause it to die on the road .

    Here is a video of what it sounds like when I press ignition for ready mode.



    I think my next plan is to get it in garage and trace the wires to crank sensor and see if I can see any damage and try a new battery.

    I do wonder if transmission has gone out on me or if hybrid battery doesn’t have enough power, does the noise in video mean anything to anyone?
     
  6. mr_guy_mann

    mr_guy_mann Senior Member

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    I would watch the crankshaft pulley and water pump belt and see if the engine is trying to rotate when the car is placed in "ready". You have a pronounced "bad sound" when the engine should be spinning at 1000 rpm and running, that would make me think that there is a mechanical fault. Since you can move the engine by hand then you likely have something failed in the trans.

    Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.
     
  7. daley

    daley Junior Member

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    Thanks for your help, appreciated.

    I think once I get it in barn, I will pull engine/trans and replace, used engines/transmission aren’t so expensive.
     
  8. daley

    daley Junior Member

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    I wanted to conclude this, I replaced engine and transmission with a used one I found that has 80k on it. Just got it in and car is working!
     
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  9. Avantis

    Avantis New Member

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    Hi Daley
    Did you strip the engine transmission down to locate the fault, please help as I have similar problem that's unresolved for over 8 months now.
     
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