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prius C battery cell test question

Discussion in 'Prius c Technical Discussion' started by kdfchannel, Mar 14, 2021.

  1. kdfchannel

    kdfchannel Junior Member

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    Location:
    Orlando, FL, United States
    Vehicle:
    2012 Prius c
    Model:
    ----USA----
    hello guys this is my first post in priuschat, I am happy that I found this community of knowledgeable people that always help

    I have a prius C with the code P0A80 and P3000 I've been reading a lot (A LOT) and I would like to replace/repair the battery pack myself why ?? because looks that here in orlando Florida I can't find somebody with enough knowledge to perform the right job, my battery pack is a shop right now but I could see the "technician" had a iMAX B6 LCD RC Lipo NiMH Battery Balance Charger I got kind of disappointed because I thought maybe he had a more specialized equipment than the one I had in my mind, he said he is going to perform the job in a day, and I know a day is not enough to analyze a whole pack with rudimentary tools.

    with that said I want to be prepared by the time I get the battery pack and repair/service myself , I did open the battery first before going to the technician to make sure he is going to clean all the contacts and connections I did also measured all the voltages( NO LOAD TEST JUST MULTIMITER) and I found something interesting.

    7.42
    7.35
    7.23
    7.15
    7.09
    7.03
    6.98
    6.95
    6.86
    6.75
    6.45
    6.34
    6.30
    6.28
    6.22
    6.19
    6.12
    6.26
    6.37
    6.59
    6.78
    6.95
    7.12
    7.23
    7.28
    7.31
    7.36
    7.40

    why this voltages show this pattern of decreasing in the middle?? I don't want to assume that I have a whole bad battery module, I don't really know about this car since I bought it at the auction not running thanks for your help.
     
  2. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    congrats and welcome!

    heat

    have you considered a new pack?
     
  3. kdfchannel

    kdfchannel Junior Member

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    2012 Prius c
    Model:
    ----USA----
    thanks Bisco I have considered it, but I bought the car on a low budget I tough replacing the auxiliary battery was going to fix the problem but I found the hard way now I have a prius C that I have to fix . thanks for the reply and the HEAT ANSWER is yes the fan was totally clogged. In the worst case scenario I will buy a pack I saw on car-parts for $650 2014 prius C 78k miles but I wish I could learn how to refurbish the pack myself for future prius I will buy, but the more I read the more confused I get hahaha I see the cheap iMAX B6 LCD RC is not a good option for charge discharge I should buy something more advance,maybe in the future if I get to learn from you guys I can try to fix prius for a living I really like this cars I've already owned 3 in the past year thanks again for replying my message.
     
    bisco likes this.
  4. Leadfoot J. McCoalroller

    Leadfoot J. McCoalroller Senior Member

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    Like what?

    Most people are using radio control hobby chargers because they are the most advanced NiMH battery chargers they could find. There just isn't a lot of selection once you require a charger that can handle NiMH chemistry.

    I don't want to discourage you from trying to repair this Prius, or from learning how to do module-level battery repair.... but I think you found one where essentially all the modules need to be replaced, might as well swap the whole suitcase in one unit.
     
    kdfchannel likes this.
  5. kdfchannel

    kdfchannel Junior Member

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    2012 Prius c
    Model:
    ----USA----
    thanks Leadfoot J. McCoalroller my problem is I saw the technician that is "repairing the pack" with a iMAX B6 LCD RC working module by module so I'm totally disappointed I though he had something more advance to discharge / charge the battery I'm now convinced he has very minimal knowledge about this, maybe he is going to swap modules from different models and he is not going to care the fact that the pack overheated, I'm totally convinced I want to buy a battery from a low miles prius and refurbish myself because unfortunately here in orlando florida I can't find somebody with the knowledge level like the members of the prius chat to repair it. also another factor is economy and I would love to learn in the process.
     
  6. RobAustin

    RobAustin Member

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    Location:
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    Vehicle:
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    If you go the OEM route:

    Battery Assembly - Toyota (G9510-52031)

    • List Price:$2,456.74
    • You Save:$563.85 (23% off)
    • Sale Price:$1,892.89
    • Core Charge:$1,350.00 Core Charge Applies
    This part fits your 2014 Toyota Prius C
     
  7. RobAustin

    RobAustin Member

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    One
    Looks like B & S Auto Salvage in Wildwood has a bunch of hybrid C batteries.
    I didn't check them by milage,, but part #18H465 was the newest (2015) battery in Florida. (on car-part.com):


    Good luck


    2015
    Battery
    Toyota Prius 1.5,AOD,06/15 110KKK X

    18H465 $Call
    B & S Auto Salvage USA-FL(Wildwood)
    Request_Quote 352-748-1150
     
    #7 RobAustin, Mar 15, 2021
    Last edited: Mar 15, 2021
  8. vvillovv

    vvillovv Senior Member

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    I'd recommend DrPrius app Hybrid battery diagnostic and repair tool for Toyota and Lexus / Elm 327 bluetooth adapter
    The app developer recommends the panlong obd2 bluetooth adaper and it's $13 + shipping at amazon

    A lot of us use it to monitor our traction packs while the car is in Ready mode.

    So you can compare what the car is showing to the app with what you see while reconditioning and/or running discharge tests on each module after your get it back from the technician.
     
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  9. kdfchannel

    kdfchannel Junior Member

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    thanks for the great info.
     
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  10. topshot

    topshot Member

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    Three
    If packs are connected in series, why wouldn't heat affect them all the same? I don't know the pack layout (ones in the center would get hotter), but find it hard to believe heat caused such a nice smooth curve since there would only be a certain number that are completely surrounded.
     
  11. vvillovv

    vvillovv Senior Member

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    There are a couple of reasons that different modules heat at different rates and to different temperatures. Position in the pack is only one of them.
     
  12. kdfchannel

    kdfchannel Junior Member

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    ----USA----
    I already got a conclusion I found out that the engine has a misfire or I have a bad piston rod caused by hydrolock at the end the previous owner sold the car because basically he tried to start the car numerous times to the point the traction battery completely died.
     
  13. Leadfoot J. McCoalroller

    Leadfoot J. McCoalroller Senior Member

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    Ugh, wow that one was really used up. No fun!
     
  14. kdfchannel

    kdfchannel Junior Member

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    I did another video after I took apart sparks plugs, injectors, intake , cleaned throttle body , cleaned egr hoses and everything that could be cleaned( including the water on cylinder #1) put back together and this is the noise I got.
     
  15. vvillovv

    vvillovv Senior Member

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    I wouldn't want to have to guess if that sounds from a valve lifter connecting rod or something else.
    It doesn't sound good, that's for sure. But, it's running, that is good and you may be able to find what the problem is after you get the other engine in if that is still the plan.
    Thanks for the update.
    stethoscope?
     
    #15 vvillovv, Mar 21, 2021
    Last edited: Mar 21, 2021
  16. kdfchannel

    kdfchannel Junior Member

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    2012 Prius c
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    ----USA----
    Thanks for the reply today I will keep you posted I am planing to open the engine for educational purposes for my surprise I opened the oil pan and no metal was found so you could be right I'll be repairing the head gasket issue I hope I can fix this car and put a lot of miles on it
     
    vvillovv likes this.
  17. davidc83

    davidc83 Member

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    That sound seems to be outside of the motor, not inside...radiator fan, power steering unit, are you sure it is inside the engine?

    Z6201V ?
     
  18. TMR-JWAP

    TMR-JWAP Senior Member

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    I'm glad you have this figured out. I was going to tell you that the battery was not your problem. From the voltage readings you provided, it was very obvious you have a depleted battery, not a bad module. Your battery will probably be perfectly fine after being charged up. I've seen this a few times from people running out of gas and the battery kills itself when the person continues to drive the car or tries to start it many times.
     
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  19. kdfchannel

    kdfchannel Junior Member

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    ----USA----
    thanks for the reply,now I think I found a new hobby I saw a post you talked about chargers and you have the ev peak cq3 but also recommended the hitech 44254 what do you think is a better option in the long run If I'm planning to rebuild the HV packs.
     
  20. kdfchannel

    kdfchannel Junior Member

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    ----USA----
    yes I think the noise is inside. I have a small toyota tacoma making the same noise and I've been told by many mechanics the problem is a rod bearing I am installing a new engine I hope this fixes the problem