Rebuit pack now P3000 help ;"(

It would help a lot if you were able to pull the sub-codes. There are 4 of them:

123: Input of abnormal signal from battery ECU (HV battery system malfunction)
125: Input of abnormal signal from battery ECU (high voltage fuse blown out)
388: Discharge Inhibition Control Malfunction - When charged battery is low due to leaving the vehicle in N position, gas
shortage or HV system malfunction
389: Drop of High Voltage- When main battery is dead or main battery is dead due to HV system malfunction

Your description makes me think the last two are implausible. My guess is that the HV battery ECU is hosed. But that's just a guess.

 

Where is the rebuilt pack from - did you rebuild it yourself? The cells all look nicely balanced, except the last two - with block 18 partially high, and block 19 partially low. Is it rebuilt with more modern NWH20 type cells? Or the original NWH11 cells?

If you can get the battery block voltages on-screen (with the car being driven), and if you can record a video of the screen (phone duck taped to make a rough recording, then one test is to see what happens during moderate acceleration and braking. If one battery charges up rapidly during braking, and discharges rapidly during moderate acceleration (rapidly can mean 'instantaneous'), then that module is bad. Instant changes mean a destroyed cell in one of the blocks in the module.

Another thing from the picture; your auxiliary battery voltage is 13.75 volts (and that is with the 12v DC-DC inverter charging it. On my NWH11 (with rebuilt pack and stuff replaced yesterday!), it is 14.1 volts... but on my NWH20 it is always 13.8 volts, because my 12 volt battery on the NWH20 has a dead cell.
- On my NWH11, I found it is extremely sensitive to a low 12v battery; I managed to get hybrid system errors, ABS error, airbag error, main battery error, etc - all due to a low 12v battery. So, check the voltage of the 12v battery when the car is off; it should be at least 12.5 volts, maybe a little more.

Have you also checked your inverter pump? Is there fluid flowing in the reservoir?

Also, I know the above doesn't directly address your issues - it is worth doing these as a quick check. Definitely check for flow in the inverter coolant reservoir.

Something else; you said it can happen when the car is idling, the battery charges to '100%'... Do you mean that the battery icon actually shows a completely full battery? That doesn't usually happen; but if it is, check the voltages in blocks 18 and 19 when it is in use; a simple test is to press the brake, put the car in drive, gently press the accelerator to draw some current... do any blocks (especially 18,19) drop their voltage a lot more than the others? If so, that would indicate the need for further investigation - any blocks that drop voltage when used will also gain voltage quickly when charged - which can lead to '100% battery' when the ECU detects a full battery.

It is also worth inspecting the battery ECU for any burns, corrosion, etc!