Kenwood Sub - Install Help

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(rob_md @ Jul 7 2006, 10:07 PM) [snapback]282894[/snapback]</div>

Hi!

I haven't yet tackled the Kenwood sub yet, but I do have years of experience installing car audio. The carpet should not have that much effect on the sub. The sub is more limited by the metal of the vehicle, so the sound waves will be forced to travel up through the carpet (are you talking about the stock carpet or do you have an additional trunk mat?). I would be more concerned with the pressboard cover...and if needed I may drill some holes in it under the carpet

I have not seen the screws, but I can imagine you could either use them (unless they stick out too far through the bottom of the tray and pose a hazard to your hands should you need to remove the tray), you could use nuts and bolts (although it would take some time if you ever had to remove them, or you could probably use some heavy duty hook and look (velcro) type material (probably my choice because it is easy to use, and easy to remove if needed).

As far as the Dynamat, it would probably not hurt, although I imagine most of the vibration would occur along the edge of the bottom of the tray where it "hangs". Being that it is under the carpet, and because it will probably vibrate other things in the car, it may not make that big of a difference. I would probably test it without, and then add it if needed.

I think most of the people who installed it also recommended leaving slack in the wiring so that you can easily remove the tray to access the tire below.

Goodluck and let me know how it goes!

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(rob_md @ Jul 8 2006, 01:07 AM) [snapback]282894[/snapback]</div>

This is where I put mine. I don't notice any sound degradation with it recovered, nor do I hear any vibrations or ratteling. I just attached it to the plastic floor with some heavy duty velcro, seems to keep it in one place.

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(jkusnetz @ Jul 8 2006, 07:46 AM) [snapback]282972[/snapback]</div>

After installing mine there, I drove around for a while with the cover completely off. To me, the sub sounded better with the hatch cover and carpet in place. Maybe the enclosure helps.

I didn't screw mine down. I attached little rubber feet to the bottom of the unit (I don't remember if they came with it or I supplied my own), and it doesn't slide around at all. It's heavy enough to keep it in one place. This method make removal much easier and doesn't damage the plastic under-hatch tray. I'd recommend trying this - if it doesn't work out, you could attach it later.

There are no issues with rattles from my sub. Maybe the rubber feet prevent any plastic-to-plastic contact.

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(dgstan @ Jul 8 2006, 11:44 AM) [snapback]282982[/snapback]</div>

Same experience-sounded much better with the covers ( including the weathertech caargo mat) over the cargo area-the sound seems to spread out and be more ubiquitous, almost as if it was using the storage cavity as a sound generator, I used the brackets and screwed it down tight to the tray leaving plenty of spare wire so removing the tray is a non-issue. No rattles.

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(rob_md @ Jul 8 2006, 07:17 PM) [snapback]283174[/snapback]</div>

No nowadays most products can take extreme heat without any problems. The only exception may be if you lived in an extreme heat area, and you played at very high level too. Otherwise, you should have no problems at all.

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(rob_md @ Jul 8 2006, 10:17 PM) [snapback]283174[/snapback]</div>

No heat issues. If you aren't done yet did you consider putting the controller in the lttle drawer in the front of the center console? That way you don't need to lean across the car to change the settingsand the passenger can still reach it as well. You need to remove the console ( easy, just do a quick search of the forum-4 screws) and drill a small hole in the back of the drawer. Slide the wire through the hole, under the carpet to under the door trim and back to the unit. Install the pieces of velcro to keep it from rattling around and you are all set.

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(rob_md @ Jul 8 2006, 12:07 AM) [snapback]282894[/snapback]</div>

A ? for all of you who have done this installation. Have you connected to just the right rear speaker or the both rears ???????? Is the improvement with just adding the woofer worth the $$$$$ ?

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(B Rad @ Jul 9 2006, 10:05 AM) [snapback]283376[/snapback]</div>

Both rear signals here too.

Adding the sub makes for a night and day difference. The system went from nearly unlistenable to rather enjoyable. If you only make one mod to your stereo, it should be this. I've since changed out my front speakers and tweeters and while that mod was quite an improvement, it's nowhere near what I got with the sub.

The sub cost me ~$150, which is a mere pittance compared to the other options like swapping out the factory amp and/or head unit.

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(rob_md @ Jul 9 2006, 10:26 AM) [snapback]283384[/snapback]</div>

What did you hook the Blue ACC kenwood wire to? The wiring schematics for the 2004 show a grey 12v acc wire, but I do not see a grey wire attached to the amp at all. I am not getting any power to the sub. I have all the speaker wires tapped at the amp - I just do not know where the ACC power is.

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(dpeezie @ Oct 28 2006, 04:10 AM) [snapback]339876[/snapback]</div>

The wire to the Cigarette lighter (oops - auxilliary power outlet) is powered by ACC and unpowered when off.

JeffD

ps: I hope you guys know that pulling high current (2-4 amps in this case) from your 12v lowers MPG somewhat (0.25-0.5 hp vs ~ 25 hp nominal highway = 1-2% MPG hit).