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I want to DIY a complete brake fluid flush

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by FreydNot, Jun 21, 2021.

  1. FreydNot

    FreydNot Member

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    2008 Prius with 230k miles. I've owned it since 25k miles. Factory brakes all around and factory brake fluid.

    The car has always had the barking sound from the break system. I understand this is common if not normal.

    The break pedal has always been a bit squishy compared to other cars I've driven (including other Priuses). I've always wanted to flush the brake fluid, but just never got around to it. It's not dangerous or anything, it's just how it feels.

    I consider myself a reasonably skilled DIYer. I have tools, a mini-VCI and TechStream already.

    I am about the replace the front break pads for the first time. I have the replacement pads in hand and will do the work very soon. I've been trying to decide if I want to open the bleed valve to drain the fluid as I push the pistons back in or just force the fluid back up the system. Logic tells me to let the old fluid bleed out since it's 13+ years old and likely to be contaminated. My mind was pretty much made up, but then I saw that Hobbit decided it was fine to not open the bleed valves. I'm guessing if he had been able to get the first valve open, he would have done it differently.

    I've read the factory procedure for bleeding the breaks. It's complicated but not unreasonable. What is not clear is does that procedure result in a complete flush of all break fluid? Is reads like the intention is to get rid of any air in the system, but I can't tell how much fluid actually leaves the car. It talks about using a hand-tester which I'm guessing is equivalent to TechStream?

    It's also not clear to me which procedure I should used to achieve a full flush. Will "BLEED FRONT AND REAR BRAKE SYSTEMS" get the job done or do I need to venture into "BLEED BRAKE ACTUATOR" and "BLEED MASTER CYLINDER/STROKE SIMULATOR" procedures?

    I've read the Gen2 Prius has something like 1 gallon of break fluid. That seems like a lot of fluid to move for an air flush procedure.

    I've looked at YouTube videos using TechStream to do the flush procedure, but I haven't run across a comprehensive guide that shows both TechStream screens and the actual work being done.

    Can anyone recommend a good video or write-up detailing doing a DIY full brake fluid flush using TechStream?

    From what I can tell, I have four options when I replace the pads.

    1) don't open any of the bleed valves, force the fluid back up the system and don't worry about changing the brake fluid at all (the Hobbit method).
    2) follow the non TechStream procedure in concert with pushing back the brake piston. This only calls for one quart of new fluid which isn't a good sign.
    3) find enough info to reassure myself I know how to do a full brake fluid bleed myself and do that.
    4) replace the pads by forcing the old fluid back up the system and then pay a dealership to do a complete brake fluid flush. This would involve a lot of money and trust that the dealer would actually do the work properly.

    What do you think I should do?
     
  2. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    I think you're right that he would have done it differently if not for the seized bleeder, so "decided it was fine" is probably overstating the case. He found that it would be possible to push the piston back anyway, which would push the old fluid backward through SLRFL or SLRFR, respectively. But those are also two of the small valves in there that, if they get a contaminant that stops them sealing completely, will lead to incessant pump running and require replacing the actuator. I would be inclined not to shove old stuff backwards through them if I could avoid it.

    His problem was that the rubber cap had never been on that bleeder. How are yours? The rubber caps work wonders, and the bleeders should be perfectly easy to open if the caps have been there all along. Be sure to put them back when you are done, or the bleeders will get very stuck for next time. Because they have passages drilled through them, if the caps are left off they conduct salt water down to the base of the threads and seize up from the inside as well as out.

    Well, you're kind of in control of how much leaves the car. :) Just keep an eye on that reservoir and make sure you don't let any air get sucked in, or it's go back to start.

    If your aim is to change as much fluid as you can, I think you'd want to stock up on fluid and venture into them all.

    This looks like the winning move to me.
     
  3. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    Have you checked how much dealership would charge?
     
  4. TMR-JWAP

    TMR-JWAP Senior Member

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    By virtue of a hard learned lesson......I will ALWAYS open the bleeder when pushing a piston back into it's cylinder. There are too many close tolerance components in modern brake systems to risk a contaminant becoming lodged, especially in any of the ABS components. This happened on our 2003 Santa Fe and nearly caused a very violent crash.
     
  5. FreydNot

    FreydNot Member

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    The local dealer that tends to have good pricing just quoted me $225 for a full brake fluid flush.

    They did confirm the job takes 4x 12oz bottles of DOT3, so that confirms it takes much less than a gallon (48fl oz = 0.375 gal)
     
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  6. FreydNot

    FreydNot Member

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    Great question. I have no reason to believe they aren't in good shape, but I haven't checked yet. I'll proceed assuming they are functional.

    Is it really that simple? It appears the Toyota procedure calls for 4 bottles of 12fl oz DOT 3 fluid. So just make sure I get 12 fl oz out of each bleeder valve and call it a day? Unless I fail to keep the reservoir topped off of course; then it will be a longer day.

    I'm inclined to agree. The local dealer wants $225 for the service. I can buy the 48 oz of Toyota OEM DOT 3 for $32 total. Seems like a no brainer. Even if I don't get every last ounce of the old fluid out, it seems like a worthy task.
     
  7. fkat

    fkat Junior Member

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    Just replaced the front brake pads on our 2006 we got 2 months ago. Not sure if they are original at 152K mi but maybe so based what I’ve read about Prius. pads were down to 1mm. I just pushed the pistons back without opening the bleeder screws.

    For flushing the system I read a lot and decided to change even though many experts say not to unless you have issues. Mine was boarder line yellow-brown color. The new fluid is golden clear. Like the OP, I also wondered which process to perform: 1-Usual, 2-Actuator or 3-Master Cylinder/Stroke Simulator. The steps outlined in the manual is not great so here is what I decided to do.

    Suck up the old fluid in reservoir then added new to max.
    Perform 2-Actuator bleeding (since this seems to include 1 and 3).

    During this process Techstream steps were different from the manual so I just followed the screen instead. I’m using V16.20.023. When bleeding from the FL , the color was dark yellow at first then turned foamy white like mixed with air (maybe there was air in the system?). Then foamy stuff turned golden. Other corners bled dark yellow then turned golden, no air. This took about 3 bottles of 12 oz. so I decided to use the last bottle to perform the Usual, all lines.

    Cleared all DTC and test drove. Everything seems to be working well.
     
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  8. Classic Car Guy

    Classic Car Guy Active Member

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    When you flush the 07 prius brake fluid, is it recommended that I use the one they sell in the dealer or can I use a prestone dot3 synthetic? Looks like the picture below..
    c/o @Patrick Wong
    Thanks...
    [​IMG]
     
  9. Elektroingenieur

    Elektroingenieur Senior Member

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    The Owner’s Manual (PDF) specifies, on pages 401 and 433, “SAE J1703 or FMVSS No. 116 DOT 3 brake fluid.” Those are generic specifications for an industry-standard product, and I wouldn’t hesitate to use a third-party fluid, such as the one you mentioned, if it’s cheaper or easier to find than Toyota’s, which is sold in the U.S. as part number 00475-1BF03 for a 12 fl. oz. bottle.
     
  10. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    Yeah two of the Toyota DOT3 bottles set me back something like $15 CDN, readily available at dealership parts department.
     
  11. Samuraidog

    Samuraidog Junior Member

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    Here is the procedure I used. Super simple and works great. And, it doesn't require TechStream.
    Just be sure to follow his instructions EXACTLY for hybrids. In other words put the key far away from the car and don't open the driver's door at any time during the procedure.
     
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  12. Classic Car Guy

    Classic Car Guy Active Member

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    In regards to the prestone dot3 synthetic brake fluid that I mentioned on my previous posting for I want to replace my brake fluids. I was a bit skeptical of using other products besides factory specified especially in transmission fluid or coolant. I went ahead and called the Toyota dealer that I always buy almost anything for my 07 prius. ..and I was asking them if its gonna harm if I use a different fluid like a prestone dot 3 synthetic to flush my entire system. I just don't wanna blow-up especially the booster by putting a non-toyota fluid. They said its not like the coolant or the transmission fluid they specifically recommend. As long as its a dot 3 or even dot 4 and its a reputable brake fluid company, that would be fine. That's what they just told me.
    My question is, does anyone have a long time use of aftermarket brake fluid in your prius and didn't have any problem with your braking system?
    I'm talking about "long term" not like I just put it yesterday and everything is running fine... biglaugh.gif Thanks,,,
    c/o @Patrick Wong
     
    #12 Classic Car Guy, Apr 4, 2022
    Last edited: Apr 4, 2022
  13. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    I think your dealership’s guidance is right; owners manual says DOT3, that’s all.

    but again: dealership’s Toyota DOT3 is cheap, so…
     
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  14. dolj

    dolj Senior Member

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    I really think you're overthinking it. Why would you doubt the dealer's advice?
     
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  15. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    I use ATE SL6 DOT4 fluid because DOT4 fluid is required for my European vehicles.
     
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